Motor has 0 compression on rear rotor and 50 on front rotor.....
11-14-05, 08:49 PM
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Motor has 0 compression on rear rotor and 50 on front rotor.....
Ok this is bad... I bought the car of of some guy who lied to me about compression.... Thats what I get for trusting someone... The compression on the fron rotor is 50 and the rear rotor is 0. I dont even know if the rear rotor is spinning.... I am now forced to either look for another Rx-7, get a 91 240sx coupe or just rebuild or get a new motor. I love my rex so I am going to probably drop a new motor in it. I am going to take the entire block apart and look at the condition of the housing and rotors... If it is reusable, which I doubt I will just do a rebuild. I have a few questions.
1. If I can reuse the rotors and housing should I do a rebuild? If so how much will it cost me and do I need any special tools?
2. If I decide that the rotors/housing is no good, I will have to just replace the motor. What should I get and whats the cheapest I can get it? Should I get a used motor? How can I make sure I dont get ripped off? Where can I get a rebuilt motor for an affordable price.
3. How many miles can I expect to get from a n/a rebuilt or used motor with good compression if I drive the car respectably?
Tanx for reading this guys, I really need help with this one.... Dont wanna part with my 7 I just wanna here her purrrr again..... IF ANYONE HAS A GOOD COMPRESSION USED, REBUILT, OR NEW MOTOR FOR AN AFFORDABLE PRICE, PLZ LET ME KNOW!
1. If I can reuse the rotors and housing should I do a rebuild? If so how much will it cost me and do I need any special tools?
2. If I decide that the rotors/housing is no good, I will have to just replace the motor. What should I get and whats the cheapest I can get it? Should I get a used motor? How can I make sure I dont get ripped off? Where can I get a rebuilt motor for an affordable price.
3. How many miles can I expect to get from a n/a rebuilt or used motor with good compression if I drive the car respectably?
Tanx for reading this guys, I really need help with this one.... Dont wanna part with my 7 I just wanna here her purrrr again..... IF ANYONE HAS A GOOD COMPRESSION USED, REBUILT, OR NEW MOTOR FOR AN AFFORDABLE PRICE, PLZ LET ME KNOW!
11-14-05, 08:54 PM
#2
Senior Member
If you want to have it rebuilt, Kevin Landers (RotaryRessurection) would be a good guy to go to. I've heard nothing but good things about his service and the engines he builds. And while it's down there, you could have it ported a little
11-14-05, 11:08 PM
#6
You get what you pay for. Cheap is not the way to go...
There's a good reason why it is impossible to get a good engine built for cheap... I'll leave it at that. Spend the money and do it right the first time or spend more money and do it again.
I would like to believe I have disproven these opinions over a period of a few years now...just look at the feedback from hundreds of my customers, positive versus negative (if you can find any negative, that is).
But, there are some who refuse to believe it is possible. These are the ones who believe you must spend more on the engine block than the value of the entire car in good running condition in order to have a good engine. The guys that think that every part inside an engine must be replaced at each teardown, because we all know that every part inside wears an equal amount and gets torn up.
To you, I offer the same challenge I have offered other "all new part freaks" in the past who talk a big **** about "you get what you pay for". Build your engine (or buy from whoever you'd like to build it) with all the best parts you desire..."do it right", by your own words. I will build one of my standard engines which replace some parts and reuse others. We each note the difference in end cost (to the customer). I will then take the difference and put towards power mods for the car. After a normal breakin, both cars will dyno and results will be shared. This experiment will show "bang for the buck" from the buyer's standpoint.
Or, put simply, no one here can prove that an engine built with all new parts will run better or make more power than one prudently built with a mixture of new and used parts.
Until someone steps up to take this deal, I say put up or shut up. Of course they will not, just keep running mouths anyway. And I will keep disproving them at the expense of the larger, more profitable shops. This is why I now have entire full page magazine ads (aimed at me by competition) dedicated to making customers think that it has to be expensive to be quality.
11-14-05, 11:19 PM
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As much as I love what you're saying, I think most peoples bitch with used biting you in the *** is 'reliability', not saying that you can't have a reliable 'rebuild', I'm just saying what I think they're coming from when they bitch about it.
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11-14-05, 11:41 PM
#9
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
There are more banzaitoyota's on this forum than I care to count. I address them as I run across them. Right now is your turn.
I would like to believe I have disproven these opinions over a period of a few years now...just look at the feedback from hundreds of my customers, positive versus negative (if you can find any negative, that is).
But, there are some who refuse to believe it is possible. These are the ones who believe you must spend more on the engine block than the value of the entire car in good running condition in order to have a good engine. The guys that think that every part inside an engine must be replaced at each teardown, because we all know that every part inside wears an equal amount and gets torn up.
To you, I offer the same challenge I have offered other "all new part freaks" in the past who talk a big **** about "you get what you pay for". Build your engine (or buy from whoever you'd like to build it) with all the best parts you desire..."do it right", by your own words. I will build one of my standard engines which replace some parts and reuse others. We each note the difference in end cost (to the customer). I will then take the difference and put towards power mods for the car. After a normal breakin, both cars will dyno and results will be shared. This experiment will show "bang for the buck" from the buyer's standpoint.
Or, put simply, no one here can prove that an engine built with all new parts will run better or make more power than one prudently built with a mixture of new and used parts.
Until someone steps up to take this deal, I say put up or shut up. Of course they will not, just keep running mouths anyway. And I will keep disproving them at the expense of the larger, more profitable shops. This is why I now have entire full page magazine ads (aimed at me by competition) dedicated to making customers think that it has to be expensive to be quality.
I would like to believe I have disproven these opinions over a period of a few years now...just look at the feedback from hundreds of my customers, positive versus negative (if you can find any negative, that is).
But, there are some who refuse to believe it is possible. These are the ones who believe you must spend more on the engine block than the value of the entire car in good running condition in order to have a good engine. The guys that think that every part inside an engine must be replaced at each teardown, because we all know that every part inside wears an equal amount and gets torn up.
To you, I offer the same challenge I have offered other "all new part freaks" in the past who talk a big **** about "you get what you pay for". Build your engine (or buy from whoever you'd like to build it) with all the best parts you desire..."do it right", by your own words. I will build one of my standard engines which replace some parts and reuse others. We each note the difference in end cost (to the customer). I will then take the difference and put towards power mods for the car. After a normal breakin, both cars will dyno and results will be shared. This experiment will show "bang for the buck" from the buyer's standpoint.
Or, put simply, no one here can prove that an engine built with all new parts will run better or make more power than one prudently built with a mixture of new and used parts.
Until someone steps up to take this deal, I say put up or shut up. Of course they will not, just keep running mouths anyway. And I will keep disproving them at the expense of the larger, more profitable shops. This is why I now have entire full page magazine ads (aimed at me by competition) dedicated to making customers think that it has to be expensive to be quality.
I agree with everything you said here. A blown engine will have so many re-uasble internal parts that it's a waste to replace the items that are well within spec. I mean an engine with less than 100k that has blown apex seals, why is everyone replacing the bearings, corner seals, side seals, and oil control rings when these items are "Proven" to last well over 200k? It makes no since. Those items are usually always well within spec but everyone seems to think that they always need to be replaced just because the engine is apart.
Last edited by t-von; 11-14-05 at 11:44 PM.
11-15-05, 01:28 AM
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Not to disrespect anyone, as these are my own thoughts, but.
My father has been in the manufacturing industry for over 20 years. I realize this isn't the auto industry, but they're close. I've been in the manu industry for 1.5 years. In my experience already, its been proven that while something is taken apart, that its usually better to replace everything, rather than one thing, and then something else that goes a week later. One good example to cite would be a spindle on a machining center. They have a shaft, bearings, all kinds of neat stuff. Over time, the shaft wears. The bearings also wear, as do the slides that the unit slides on. What we did was only replace the slides. This made no sense to me, but whatever. The entire unit went back on fine, but literally a week later, the one spindle blew up, the bearings were shot.
Now, if we had done that spindle in the 4 days the unit was off for the slides, we could have saved
a: the drill in the unit
b: the spindle shaft from having the bearings blow out in it
c; additional down time for having to yank the unit AGAIN to do the bearings
I'm not saying that parts in spec can't be used again, but for ME I would rather use new parts all around. Just my two cents.
My father has been in the manufacturing industry for over 20 years. I realize this isn't the auto industry, but they're close. I've been in the manu industry for 1.5 years. In my experience already, its been proven that while something is taken apart, that its usually better to replace everything, rather than one thing, and then something else that goes a week later. One good example to cite would be a spindle on a machining center. They have a shaft, bearings, all kinds of neat stuff. Over time, the shaft wears. The bearings also wear, as do the slides that the unit slides on. What we did was only replace the slides. This made no sense to me, but whatever. The entire unit went back on fine, but literally a week later, the one spindle blew up, the bearings were shot.
Now, if we had done that spindle in the 4 days the unit was off for the slides, we could have saved
a: the drill in the unit
b: the spindle shaft from having the bearings blow out in it
c; additional down time for having to yank the unit AGAIN to do the bearings
I'm not saying that parts in spec can't be used again, but for ME I would rather use new parts all around. Just my two cents.
11-15-05, 02:05 AM
#11
apples and oranges, i also use original parts in my rebuilds and have yet to have one problem with them.
though i think this all got blown out of propotion anyways, i don't even think this is what the above poster meant by it.
though i think this all got blown out of propotion anyways, i don't even think this is what the above poster meant by it.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-15-05 at 02:07 AM.
11-15-05, 05:32 AM
#12
Banzai Racing
Correct me if I am wrong but I do not know of any builders claiming to use all new housings, plates, rotors etc in their rebuilds, hence the required core, even with a reman from Mazda.
Now to answer the origainal posters questions:
1. If I can reuse the rotors and housing should I do a rebuild? If so how much will it cost me and do I need any special tools?
The chances of you being able to use your rotors and housings are slim with the comp #'s that you have provided. THese numbers indicate that there is damage to one if not both rotrs and housings. Yes there are special tools required. Cost depends on where you buy the rebuild kit from.
2. If I decide that the rotors/housing is no good, I will have to just replace the motor. What should I get and whats the cheapest I can get it? Should I get a used motor? How can I make sure I dont get ripped off? Where can I get a rebuilt motor for an affordable price.
It is not necessary to replace the entire motor if a rotor or housing is trashed, replacement parts are available. Unless you are looking to convert it then you are stuck with installing the same type of engine that you currently have. Used motors are always a gamble, making sure you do not get ripped off is something that you have to be able to do on your own.
3. How many miles can I expect to get from a n/a rebuilt or used motor with good compression if I drive the car respectably?
A used engine you can get from 5 miles to 50k miles it is very difficult to say considering you do not know the history of the engine. A rebuilt N/A properly serviced will probably outlast the car.
Now to answer the origainal posters questions:
1. If I can reuse the rotors and housing should I do a rebuild? If so how much will it cost me and do I need any special tools?
The chances of you being able to use your rotors and housings are slim with the comp #'s that you have provided. THese numbers indicate that there is damage to one if not both rotrs and housings. Yes there are special tools required. Cost depends on where you buy the rebuild kit from.
2. If I decide that the rotors/housing is no good, I will have to just replace the motor. What should I get and whats the cheapest I can get it? Should I get a used motor? How can I make sure I dont get ripped off? Where can I get a rebuilt motor for an affordable price.
It is not necessary to replace the entire motor if a rotor or housing is trashed, replacement parts are available. Unless you are looking to convert it then you are stuck with installing the same type of engine that you currently have. Used motors are always a gamble, making sure you do not get ripped off is something that you have to be able to do on your own.
3. How many miles can I expect to get from a n/a rebuilt or used motor with good compression if I drive the car respectably?
A used engine you can get from 5 miles to 50k miles it is very difficult to say considering you do not know the history of the engine. A rebuilt N/A properly serviced will probably outlast the car.
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