Lets just say I'm not looking to make a lot of power. Just enough for my car to be somewhat fast. I've been looking at all sorts of options. If I go turbo I can just get a J-spec motor. Rebuild and street port it. Throw a boost controller and 3" exhuast and call it a day. This would cost me about $3000. Or I could save money by using my existing exhaust. Use my existing motor. And just go dual carb and a good sized street or half bridge port. This would cost me alot less (about $1000). If you are on a budget (roughly $2000) and you have a S5 N/A with all the basic mods already done. Which route would be more bang for the buck? I'm not looking to make alot of power. And as far as having more to work with. I'm not going to go any farther than that because I'll just be buying an FD soon anyways.

 

i would port it, but if i was you i would save that 2k and put into the FD!

 

If you go with the jspec and rebuild with BC and exhaust you are forgetting all the supporting mods that can add a couple hundred to your original price.

 

Its going to be 2 years before I buy an FD. Reason being I have to pay off the new car I bought first so I don't have to deal with two car payments. A new haltech would be nice and cost about the same as a dual carb setup. Should I just get a haltech and beef up my current EGI system? I've heard of people pullin 40+ hp with a carb setup and open exhaust. I just figure if I reach a certain point as far as cost goes I might as well buy a new car.

 

Properly tuned in both categories, EFI is superior to carb. Now maybe people see gains going from stock EFI to a tuned carb setup, sure, but a full standalone properly tuned will always be superior.

 

sorry to flaunt my noobness, but whats a carb? plus is there a difference in street port than a half bridge port??

 

^ lol

 

Carbureter, the crazy fuel systems they used before fuel injection.

Streetport and half bridge are much different, yes.

 

I was thinking a carb would be nice. Run premix and not have to worry about electronic b.s. But I remember constantly adjusting the carb on my FB and I don't look forward to doing that again. So what if I were to bridge the secondaries (half bridge) and then street port the primaries and then hook up like a e6k. Also with the stock injectors and fuel pump how much power will they support? Because I've heard a port job on a N/A won't do **** unless you go go standalone and beef up the air/fuel.

 

Most power for the dollar, by far, is nitrous oxide. Its also extremely safe and reliable when set up correctly.

 

Hah! Porting does more than "****" without standalone or beefed up fuel. Lots of people get streetports (large, medium, and small) on n/a's with stock fuel except for maybe 550 secondaries (tuned of course) and stock computer except for an s-afc and make a fair amount more power.

You can bridge the secondaries and auxilaries if you want leaving the primaries with just an extend port, that's been done plenty over at nopistons.com, or you could bridge the auxilaries only and do extend ports on the rest, etc. You have lots of options. Of course standalone would make it all the better, and with any kind of bridge stock computer wont do, either standalone or carb will have to be done. A lot of people go with carbs for bridge setups on 2nd gen n/a's mainly for easier tuning and cheaper costs, but I have no doubt standalone would be better.

You could do what I'm planning on, which is a bit overkill, and do a small bridge on every port with as much extend porting as you can fit, higher pressure rear OPR, shimmed front OPR, e-shaft oil jet mods, high comp rotors, carb setup, HUGE ported exhaust with custom header/exhaust, lightweight flywheel, TII tranny/rear, typeII stat gears with 3 window bearings, etc, and go to 9-10k all you want!


Oh and like scathcart said, nitrous is very good when setup correctly, I actually plan with the above engine/mods to throw a little nitrous in the mix too. This is all a pipe dream for me right now, more in the planning stages as most of it is far from being started/completed. I have a few things but I doubt it'll be done any time soon, I still need a 1st gen shell to put it in

 

You think you're bad? I've got a ridiculous amount of money thrown into a periphereal port engine intended for turbo w/nitrous use.... sitting sealed up tight, never run, hidden away in a remote corner of my shop, with no intended car for it.

What apex seals were you planning to use for your 10,000 rpm engine?

 

NOS costs maybe $450 bucks from a local shop, here I can order it from NAPA and a place that changes oil. As always some other small parts are needed. Installing it yourself is free. So a 75 shot takes care of the need for extra HP imho. And like stated earlier its safe and a great mod when properly tuned. Also do all the required mods to run it safe (there is post around here with a writeup, try a search?)

 

Haha I never said I was bad, just have some dreams

I would LOVE to have a peripheral port one day, that is definitely a dream of mine, with or without turbo and definitely with nitrous, that would be crazy fun.

As for apex seals I haven't fully decided yet but I'm thinking of Ianetti ceramic apex seals, but those are a bit costly. I've been meaning to do some research into the rotary aviation seals to see if people have taken them to that high of rpm. Other than that mazda OEM units are always good, but again haven't done the research yet into what rpm range they can withstand. Most of this project is still in the planning stages, haven't made some of the formal decisions of seals yet

 

As much as I hate to do it, I must agree. If $2K is a lot of money to you, then you do not need to be spending it on a car that you are going to dump in 2 years. Put the money in a money market or CD account, and then you will be able to buy even better goodies for your FD.

 

What I consider alot of money is if I'm going to spend x amount of money then I might as well buy a TII. My car is at least in nice condition and i'd rather have that to work with. Plus I'd rather a dabble a little bit in tuning a relativly cheap motor before I go blowing the motor in an FD. Make sense? And NOS isn't an option. Don't believe in it.