the more I read about mods, the less I want to do them
09-10-10, 11:32 AM
#26
I've ripped off my emissions stuff, TB mod (not ported or anything) no thermowax, no sec butterflys, full block off plates, premix, and my car runs fine. I did have to do some tweaks to it, but its totally drivable. I would do a few things a little differently now, but don't half *** your ****, don't hack your harness, and you can always put stuff back on (see https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/spring-2010-updates-my-bridgeported-turbo-na-project-901098/ cough, Aaron Cake's thread, cough...) if you don't go crazy on it and you don't like how some 'mod' affected it.
I'm sorry, but I feel the RX7 and nearly any 'sports' car should be modified for better performance and/or looks (if that is your thing), because that is what makes the car fun and unique. If you want a slow Daily Driver/Grocery Getter there are better cars for that.
I'm sorry, but I feel the RX7 and nearly any 'sports' car should be modified for better performance and/or looks (if that is your thing), because that is what makes the car fun and unique. If you want a slow Daily Driver/Grocery Getter there are better cars for that.
09-10-10, 12:16 PM
#27
meh
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As a noob, and later as a non-noob, my favorite mods were suspension. Relatively straight forward, pretty simple to swap the parts out, and instant gratification. It's a difference you feel every moment you're in the car, and makes it feel awesome to drive.
If I got another FC, I would do suspension, exhaust, and a lightweight flywheel, and call it quits.
If I got another FC, I would do suspension, exhaust, and a lightweight flywheel, and call it quits.
09-10-10, 02:30 PM
#28
Engine, Not Motor
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Take two brand new engines and run them through the same circumstances on an engine dyno for 100K equivalent. Run one with 2 stroke through the metering oil pump, the other with crankcase oil. I'll be you a shiny nickle that both have exactly the same carbon accumulation.
09-11-10, 03:00 PM
#29
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^I think you'd be out a shiny nickel lol. I can't prove it, but you can't either. You probably have a lot more spare parts and engines than I do, so maybe you can haha. Others will agree that it will reduce carbon build up. In the rotary aviation he shows an engine that ran without OMP and it is much cleaner. Yeah, I'm basing my opinion on what other people have shown me and from what I've read in various places. Alas it's just my opinion, but I am sticking by it. No offense taken and non meant either.
09-11-10, 03:07 PM
#30
glad to read a thread with some sense. non turbo 7's require a lot to gain a little, tons of effort for little return. your best bet is keep the car about as stock as possible and keep everything in working order. a stock well running non turbo RX7 is actually still fairly quick for what it is and with less headache than all the other BS that nets you a few horsepower here and there.
for those who really want a quick non turbo RX7 the best place to start is weight reduction then do the mods to make more power starting with intake and exhaust. from there a standalone is the next best improvement for the cost, after that you are talking radical porting, stripping the engine to bare block and improving the intake runner airflow path.
anyone who wants to make real horsepower and a real quick car needs to realize that that can only really be accomplished by adding a turbo and all the headaches that can come with that. non turbo cars really can only peak out at about 200whp without adding gobs of money to keep them all motor, turbo cars gain much more for less.
it has been proven by a few members here, myself included. unfortunately i never took any pictures of my rebuild but i can tell you i wiped the oil off my rotors and reinstalled them after 30k abusive miles, the rotors had absolutely no carbon buildup on them. i have another engine here i am going to take apart that i will get pictures of and you can mail me that nickel when i snap some pictures of rotors with ZERO carbon buildup. i won't go 100k miles but 2 30K+ mile engines should be proof enough, 100k miles simply takes too long and the engines fail before that period for other reasons than carbon buildup while making 300 and 500+ WHP.
there is a thread in the 3rd gen section proving it also by a few engine builders there who have pictures to back it up and no one has doubted it after seeing the results, although it's nothing i didn't already know.
the ONLY reason to not run premix is laziness.. rotaries and premix are as old as rotary engines themselves. crankcase oil is like pouring ash into your motor as all the carbon buildup from your crankcase oil is basically pasted right onto your rotor faces, the only alternative is changing your oil every 200 miles to keep the oil clean and carbon free because the majority of carbon isn't from the combustion process but from impurities in the mix during the combustion process. the 2 stroke oil is designed to not burn which in turn keeps an oil film on the rotors which keeps the minority of combustion carbon from sticking to them. i also have about 20 years of 2 stroke engine experience with premixing.
here you go:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=save+whales
for those who really want a quick non turbo RX7 the best place to start is weight reduction then do the mods to make more power starting with intake and exhaust. from there a standalone is the next best improvement for the cost, after that you are talking radical porting, stripping the engine to bare block and improving the intake runner airflow path.
anyone who wants to make real horsepower and a real quick car needs to realize that that can only really be accomplished by adding a turbo and all the headaches that can come with that. non turbo cars really can only peak out at about 200whp without adding gobs of money to keep them all motor, turbo cars gain much more for less.
Prove it.
Take two brand new engines and run them through the same circumstances on an engine dyno for 100K equivalent. Run one with 2 stroke through the metering oil pump, the other with crankcase oil. I'll be you a shiny nickle that both have exactly the same carbon accumulation.
Take two brand new engines and run them through the same circumstances on an engine dyno for 100K equivalent. Run one with 2 stroke through the metering oil pump, the other with crankcase oil. I'll be you a shiny nickle that both have exactly the same carbon accumulation.
it has been proven by a few members here, myself included. unfortunately i never took any pictures of my rebuild but i can tell you i wiped the oil off my rotors and reinstalled them after 30k abusive miles, the rotors had absolutely no carbon buildup on them. i have another engine here i am going to take apart that i will get pictures of and you can mail me that nickel when i snap some pictures of rotors with ZERO carbon buildup. i won't go 100k miles but 2 30K+ mile engines should be proof enough, 100k miles simply takes too long and the engines fail before that period for other reasons than carbon buildup while making 300 and 500+ WHP.
there is a thread in the 3rd gen section proving it also by a few engine builders there who have pictures to back it up and no one has doubted it after seeing the results, although it's nothing i didn't already know.
the ONLY reason to not run premix is laziness.. rotaries and premix are as old as rotary engines themselves. crankcase oil is like pouring ash into your motor as all the carbon buildup from your crankcase oil is basically pasted right onto your rotor faces, the only alternative is changing your oil every 200 miles to keep the oil clean and carbon free because the majority of carbon isn't from the combustion process but from impurities in the mix during the combustion process. the 2 stroke oil is designed to not burn which in turn keeps an oil film on the rotors which keeps the minority of combustion carbon from sticking to them. i also have about 20 years of 2 stroke engine experience with premixing.
here you go:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=save+whales
09-11-10, 04:02 PM
#32
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the thermowax unit is the thermowax unit, and it is the thing with coolant in it. its nice to have
09-11-10, 04:08 PM
#33
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and carbon buildup um burns off when you hit the gas anyways.
09-11-10, 04:23 PM
#34
Agreed. My bins have just about every tool i need to tweak on stuff if i need to.
I can attest to the tb mod sucking when the car is cold.
After about 1 to 2 minutes, my car idles fine at about 750/800 rpm.
First startup, it wants to die if i dont blip the throttle with my heel.
I'm getting used to it though and it doesn't bother me that much.
If you have to pass smog, there's no point in troubling yourself putting all that **** back on.
Premixing doesn't hurt much. Might have a rough first start in the morning ( i know i do) but it's not that bad. I keep a funnel and 2 jugs of that stuff in my car and do a smidge over a 1oz per gallon ratio. I am going to start running midgrade fuel though and see if this corrects my rough start. Either that or i have a leaky injector flooding one of my rotors. I can hear it missing bad for about 3 seconds and then it runs normal and i use my right foot to let it idle back down.
Driving>working on your car. For real. My **** was down WITHOUT PLATES for two years because i wanted to build a "cool drift car". Then i spent alot of time ripping crap out of the car that wasn't a sensor the ecu needed to run.
09-11-10, 04:36 PM
#35
scrubbing rotors several times a week i just see how much and where it all goes. too much in the wrong areas causes premature failures.
09-11-10, 11:27 PM
#36
There's carbon buildup and then there's excessive carbon buildup. As to whether converting to 2 stroke in the OMP extends engine life, well I would like to see some conclusive tests. You won't have dirty engine oil injected into your engine if you... change your oil regularly.
09-13-10, 10:21 AM
#37
Engine, Not Motor
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The problem with all of these premix tests is that they are unscientific. Tests like this must be done in perfectly controlled conditions as a direct comparison. Otherwise, it's just anecdotal evidence.
For example, the engine in my 2nd gen ran for 250,000KM on the metering oil pump and had such little carbon that I just took it off with some thinner and a cloth. Took 5 minutes at the most. A few years ago I pulled apart a premix engine that had only about 10,000KM of runtime on it, and it had a nasty thick and hard carbon buildup that required carb cleaner and a Scotch Bright on the drill. AFRs, the quality of fuel, how the engine is treated has a major effect.
For example, the engine in my 2nd gen ran for 250,000KM on the metering oil pump and had such little carbon that I just took it off with some thinner and a cloth. Took 5 minutes at the most. A few years ago I pulled apart a premix engine that had only about 10,000KM of runtime on it, and it had a nasty thick and hard carbon buildup that required carb cleaner and a Scotch Bright on the drill. AFRs, the quality of fuel, how the engine is treated has a major effect.
09-13-10, 12:53 PM
#41
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it was weird to run the engine, take the header off and see liquid in the exhaust ports.
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