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mods for drifting a GXL???

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Old 12-25-07, 08:52 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by flipside27
Do i not have ABS?
and what are 225s?
225 is referring to the tire size. I don't think you do, neither do I tho. :/
Old 12-25-07, 11:35 PM
  #27  
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SO... do i need those things in order to drift?
if so, how much MORE cash is that gonna cost me?

Last edited by flipside27; 12-26-07 at 12:03 AM.
Old 12-26-07, 12:08 AM
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Um, no...

But they're nice.

If you have the cash to buy a new set of wheels, it doesn't matter that your car comes with 6" wide wheels...

And having cruise control is basically a must for long trips, unless you like getting tired from having to constantly control your speed.

Plus, ABS greatly decreases your stopping distances, especially in bad weather.
Old 12-26-07, 12:12 AM
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I dont think GXL's have ABS, and besides its a terrible thing anyways won't help you become a better driver that's for sure. I've never experienced ABS on an FC but from what I've heard it sucks! lol What got me started with drifting about three years ago:
*Lowering Springs
*Replacement Shocks
And after 5 months
*LSD
*Cat-Back exhaust
After a year
*Cut Springs lol better and stiffer than the others I had
*Racing Seat
*low offset wheels and try and get low profile tires to make transitions easier.
Now after three years
*Ground Control coilover springs
*Rear camber adjuster rod

That's all I've had, and you can check out my vids on youtube. Or check my blog that has the links and updates on everythings I've done.
Old 12-26-07, 12:59 AM
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ABS is the most important safety feature on cars in the last 40 years.

You're an idiot if you think a street car is better off without it.
Old 12-26-07, 01:34 AM
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Not applying this to a street car, I'm applying it to a race car.
Old 12-26-07, 01:43 AM
  #32  
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It's pretty clear he's not making a race car...
Old 12-26-07, 11:02 AM
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Yeah guys remember Its going to be my everyday driver as well
so not everything on it can be track only. I just looked at a bunch of
ABS-less cars braking.......yeah not kool in the ice
and im in Detroit so you should all know it gets cold as ***** out here

I know it may just be a matter of preference, but does anyone recomend my putting them on my car?

(and i used the search button , didnt find anyone selling or anything on installation)
Old 12-26-07, 11:08 AM
  #34  
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FWIW, Non-ABS on our cars is better in the wet, snow and ice. Our ABS is so old that it will lock and keep re-locking the tires in bad conditions. However, on dry road, it is a life-saver. Plus, it prevents you from flat spotting expensive tires.
Old 12-26-07, 11:15 AM
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I guess it is preference though cause I just kept practicing and practicing getting the point where the brakes lock up down. I didn't want anything to happen when I'm at the track. In the beginning I used to lock em up when I screwed up a drift and was heading towards the wall, but I learned it's not what to do, and would lessen the pressure. Eventually it's to the point now where I hardly get to that point of locking it up, and I direct my car away from any "obstacles" if something bad happens. I work on my driving, and make sure I always keep in mind on what is coming up next instead of just the turn ahead ya know. Eventually you'll learn things as you go. I wouldn't reccomend putting this old ABS on your car though. But that's just me.
Old 12-26-07, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by flipside27
Yeah guys remember Its going to be my everyday driver as well
so not everything on it can be track only. I just looked at a bunch of
ABS-less cars braking.......yeah not kool in the ice
and im in Detroit so you should all know it gets cold as ***** out here

I know it may just be a matter of preference, but does anyone recomend my putting them on my car?

(and i used the search button , didnt find anyone selling or anything on installation)
Well im sorry to bust it to ya but if this is staying streetable you are not going to be drifting this car. First the car is way too underpowered for what you want and its a tad bit too heavy. And if it as in imaculant condition like you say you would have to be crazy to gut it.
I would say go find one of those cheap t2's you were talking about put about 2k into and you will be about 5x as much ahead then if you would of put that money into the GXL.
Old 12-26-07, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rotorman85
Well im sorry to bust it to ya but if this is staying streetable you are not going to be drifting this car. First the car is way too underpowered for what you want and its a tad bit too heavy. And if it as in imaculant condition like you say you would have to be crazy to gut it.
I would say go find one of those cheap t2's you were talking about put about 2k into and you will be about 5x as much ahead then if you would of put that money into the GXL.
yeah i figured that would be the best way to go
and i still have the check , but my dad realy wants me to get this car so i cant use the money to buy a TII with it
and we signed a contract
so flipin the script is out of the question this late in the game

and like you said I dont want to gut the thing out especially while I'm driving around town.

About the power though, I planned on TII swaping it as soon as i got the money (sometime this spring) , but I wanted to know what i should do to it now in order to start drifting asap

And from the looks of it a_drift is doing pretty well being "under-powered" and all
reguardless of the model GTU or GXL i think skill and seat time should be able to balance out the weight between power and the drifting capabilities of my car.
(or lack of)
Old 12-26-07, 12:20 PM
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Well first get yourself a cone filter,i had a K&N Filtercharger kit on mine but a cheap E-bay one will work just as good,but it wont have the smog pump nipple.
Then get your self a single catback done at a local but good exhuast shop. That right there should net you about 12-15hp.
Now im going to tell you a secret..Remove your A.C/condensor P.S and associating lines and plug the P.S lines the right way!

Remove your UIM and LIM and port the hell outta them! But make sure they are smooth and even no bump's or jagged edges. That right there will give you another 10-15hp. Now your going to have alittle bit more power but it's still not really enough compared to what you will be drifting against. Then just get better.

If i was you i would kick back get to know the car and you will surprised on what a lil ole GXL can do! That engine in my avatar is my old GXL i ran a 13.8 with that car. Just have fun man and take you time!
Old 12-26-07, 01:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by rotorman85
Well first get yourself a cone filter,i had a K&N Filtercharger kit on mine but a cheap E-bay one will work just as good,but it wont have the smog pump nipple.
Then get your self a single catback done at a local but good exhuast shop. That right there should net you about 12-15hp.
Now im going to tell you a secret..Remove your A.C/condensor P.S and associating lines and plug the P.S lines the right way!

Remove your UIM and LIM and port the hell outta them! But make sure they are smooth and even no bump's or jagged edges. That right there will give you another 10-15hp. Now your going to have alittle bit more power but it's still not really enough compared to what you will be drifting against. Then just get better.

If i was you i would kick back get to know the car and you will surprised on what a lil ole GXL can do! That engine in my avatar is my old GXL i ran a 13.8 with that car. Just have fun man and take you time!



Thanks for the advice!
Everything you've mentioned sounds good for me besides the porting
only because i plan on swaping the engine late spring early summer anyway.

So would I be able to use the same exhaust and filter charger kit that you mentiond on my TII engine when i get it?
Old 12-26-07, 01:17 PM
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has anyone even dyno'ed Intake Manifold Porting and port matching? Does it even more more than 2 hp?

Go aftermarket or ITB's, but then again, if you're on a budget, I guess you can rip the manifolds out and port/port match them.

Or you can be like me and make 170+ whp with stock engine and stock manifolds.

lol@ sig quote, I never said FWD's couldn't slide, I said they couldn't drift multiple tightening switchbacks without losing speed like RWD's can.

What FC do you have? If you have an S5 NA, make sure the hose is attached from the filter/airbox to the air pump. If not, make sure your air pump is filtered from having things enter into it. otherwise you'd have to remove your air pump. When you remove your air pump, you'll indirectly lose a lot of power. If you have an S4 NA, and don't care about emissions, yeah, you can rip the air pump out.
Old 12-26-07, 01:43 PM
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Yes as rotorman85 states pull your AC and PS. Some say you need PS to drift, I never have. This cars dont really have a heavy front end so what's the point? When up to speed it's light as a feather. That's some good advice I'd listen to.
Old 12-26-07, 01:47 PM
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Make sure you de-power your steering the right way, don't just remove the pump/belt and call it a day. It's a world of difference.

Driving a whole day on a racetrack or autox course from morning to evening with an improperly de-powered rack cuts down on your precision, you get tired faster, you start not being smooth with the car, and your lap times go up. Though, caster-steer (counter-steer speed due to increased/decreased caster) will be so much more noticeable.
Old 12-26-07, 02:10 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by a_drift
Yes as rotorman85 states pull your AC and PS. Some say you need PS to drift, I never have. This cars dont really have a heavy front end so what's the point? When up to speed it's light as a feather. That's some good advice I'd listen to.
A daily driver without PS or A/C = FAIL

It's worth the extra 70 pounds or so.

There's really nothing wrong with the Cheapo NA S5 PS as long as everything is in proper working order.
Old 12-26-07, 02:13 PM
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DD with a proper manual rack isn't so bad......
Old 12-26-07, 02:18 PM
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There's a difference between what is tolerable and what is comfortable.

I DD a fixed bucket seat, and I tolerate it being a PITA to get in and out, but I gain so much with uber-hold that it's worth it.

OTOH, a manual rack just gives you slightly better feel and you have to trade off the fact that your car will be much harder to manuever in parking lots.

And losing 50 pounds off the car is no where near enough reward for having to put up with summer-time heat in traffic...
Old 12-26-07, 02:19 PM
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ah....good ol AC blowing 40 degree air in my vents.....

After experiencing both the crappy PS and the good PS......if you have the good PS (speed-sensitive), I would say keep it, even in competition. You don't even feel the assist once the car goes fast enough. If you have the crappy PS (rpm-sensitive), I would ditch it if it was entering serious competition. But for a purely street car, like my crappy PS one, I would keep it. (which I do......because I have to parallel park)
Old 12-26-07, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Roen
Make sure you de-power your steering the right way, don't just remove the pump/belt and call it a day. It's a world of difference.

Driving a whole day on a racetrack or autox course from morning to evening with an improperly de-powered rack cuts down on your precision, you get tired faster, you start not being smooth with the car, and your lap times go up. Though, caster-steer (counter-steer speed due to increased/decreased caster) will be so much more noticeable.
ok so as a GXL

    After the TII swap
    put the K&N intake on the TII engine
    add rockets, flux-capasitor, etc

    oh and yeah its an S5
    Old 12-26-07, 03:45 PM
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    For pure drifting, the only things you "need" are a steering wheel with a proper spacer (or a dished wheel), and a bucket seat... OTOH, automatic seatbelts are crap, so ideally you'd want a harness too, if you're doing it seriously. But for that you really need a roll bar...

    The driver comes before EVERYTHING else. If you're not being held in place, and you can't hold the steering wheel properly (it should be MUCH closer to you than stock), you can't drift worth a damn, even if you've spend $3K on your chassis and $5K on your engine. Suspension comes second IMO. Although you should get DTTS eliminators and new bushings (and engine/tranny/diff mounts) immediately... then get the shocks and springs of your choice. (and don't forget tires...)

    If it's a daily driver you REALLY should just leave the A/C and P/S in.

    I personally think you should get a drop-in K&N filter... cone filters without heat shielding actually lose HP versus stock, which basically means they just make your car louder and slower.
    Old 12-26-07, 04:13 PM
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    instead of a whole roll cage would a harness bar do fine?
    At least I'd be able to use the 5pt harness instead of the electric seatbelt
    Old 12-26-07, 04:19 PM
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    a couple of things
    1) racing harness
    2) racing harness ready seats
    3) a powerful enough engine
    4) lower profile tires
    5) lots of track time, smoking rubber, and did i mention track time?

    and btw, there is nothing wrong with abs, or ps, or anything else. just one more bout of electrical **** that can go wrong imho, i dont have either, or AC.
    basically, i would give up comfort for power or trackability.

    creature comforts

    peace


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