Geeeees!!! Oil is oil. The only reason why Mazda originally said not to use synthetics is because they don't burn. You don't harm anything by switching oil. Oil is oil. It would be a good idea to always use engine flush before changing oil if you are changing brands or switching to synthetics.

This is something I saved a long time ago:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

What all of you should be concerned about is ash content in oils. Some are high...very high. This causes problems in our cars in the long run.
A quality brand ( not Amsoil) synthetic can be used.
I haven't seen the internals of another brand but don't use Amsoil.
Synthetics have no ash content so the internals stay clean **BUT** it leaves residue due to it not burning as regular oil. No matter what, there's no regular oil that has no ash content.
If you plan on using synthetics, either use full synthetic or don't. Using half synthetic is senseless.
The best thing to do is for the S4 cars, yank out the OMP and use premix.
This synthetic vs regular goes back years. It will never end.

 

Best comment made in this whole thread.

 

Thats my call


>>>>>>>>>>>>.. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=178076


Boooyaa!

 

LOL
I yanked out the OMP 3 years ago. Soo...booyaaa back

 

So, how do you even know that its syntec if you can't even remember the weight?

If you think that your car is sluggish with the 15w50 Mobil1, then don't use it. Use the unknown weight of the fake synthetic Castrol Syntec and try preventing the pathetic jabberwocky by using the search engine next time.

 

Evil, in answer to your question, GTX will coke(turn to tar) roughly 100 degrees before Mobile1. If you do a search on the net using a weak search engine like MSN, you will get 100-125 websites recomending, and documenting the aedvantages of synthetics in turbocharged applications. If you use a better search engine , you'll get enough reading material for a lifetime. FWIW, Garrett, Proturbo, TEC, and Inoovative all recommend full synthetics for maximum bearing life. I think you know all this, but if not the information is out there for your entertainment. Nothing wrong with Castrol GTX, I ran it in my TII for years. When my stock turbo died, I sent it to turbonetics for the hybrid upgrade. At that time the failure was attributed to lack of oil flow to the bearing due to coking on, and around the bearing.
Later, Carl

 

fwiw, mobil 1 is a synthetic blend. mobil sued castrol for something and mobil went from pure synthetic to synthetic blend. I don't remember the entire story obviously.

amsoil is a much better product than mobil 1.

 

Here's a quote from Brian, owner of M2 "Dino or Synthetic motor oils? That's the big question. While Mazda Corp. has officially forbid the use of synthetic motor oils in their rotary engines, Mostly Mazda strongly recommends the use of Redline synthetics products, in the motor, differential and in the transmission. The unofficial "inside story" behind Mazda's statement is quite interesting. Apparently, in the early 1980s, Mazda's racing team had lubrication problems using a certain brand name synthetic motor oil. Instead of disclosing the particular oil brand and potentially getting faced with a lawsuit, Mazda made an unfair general statement, suggesting that all synthetic oils were incompatible with their rotary engines. Redline motor oils have been successfully used in rotary race motors for nearly two decades. Their motor oils offer improved film strength over other motor oils, synthetic or non-synthetic. Synthetics also extend the life of the turbochargers by resisting bearing "coking" typically associated with traditional oils. We used Redline 10W/40 high performance motor oil for Project RX-7. At over six dollars a quart, it is hardly inexpensive. However, a good motor oil is the best insurance against premature engine wear.

Evidence supports that synthetic oils may not burn as cleanly as dino oils. According to Mostly Mazda, this residue may potentially cause premature clogging of the catalytic converter over a very long period of time. This relatively minor problem is easily remedied by catalytic converter replacement. Such maintenance is far less expensive and time consuming than replacing engine or turbo damaged by insufficient lubrication." As I have said every major Mazda tuner, and turbo manufacturer with the notable exception of Mazdatrix agrees...............
I suspect that As a HUGE reseller of stock parts they have no choice but to tow the official Mazda line.

 

archive this ~

 

Why not Amsoil?

 

It is true you should be aware of the ash content % in the oil that you are using, because that is what is left over in your engine after the oil burns. But most oils, whether synthetic or petroleum, have relatively the same ash content, about 1-2%.

I think theres really nothing bad about running synthetic in any engine, except for "possible" oil leaks.
Synthetic is built to be a lubricant for your engine, I have no doubts that it is better than petroleum. You could even save money by going synthetic, many synth oil companies recommend anywhere from 10k-25k oil change intervals. So that means all you have to do is use a good filter and change it every 2-3k miles.

Have any of you seen the Motor Oil Bible?

http://themotoroilsite.com/

 

Here is a link to the lawsuite that you are talking about.

Although the link promotes Amsoil, you can read the details behind the Castrol vs. Mobil lawsuit.

http://www.oilsandlube.com/synthetic...ts_all_new.htm

 

Mazda racing most likey uses synthetic oil in their race cars because they change engines every race. Unless you do that don't use synthetic oil

 

Good lord man, don't post something like that with out some sort of reason why you stated it, perhaps some real technical information on why your statement is true. People need to stop posting **** like this. It's getting harder and harder to sift through the crap on this forum and find a real piece of technical data, post's like this don't help things. We're looking for technical info about the use of synthetic oils not your opinion on the matter.

 

THE ONLY oil i've used in my Engines in Mobil 1, never hurt performance or blown an engine due to it either, so for what it's worth, it's my safe oil.
I had an 87 TII stock: motor, turbo, tranny, I/C and it ran 14.5's all day long. with 158k on the clock.

 

That is the biggest piece of BS I have heard in this whole thread...

do you know anyone at Mazda raceing that you are saying this??? Or just made it up because it sounds good to you???

Please don't post BS like that.

 

I agree 100%

This guy knows squat, but feels the need to post crap like that.

 

I will look around the net for an independant study I found testing several natural oils and several synthetic oils. Buyt it boiled down to this. In terms of friction, wear, ash, deposits, heat transfer, and viscosity breakdown, All synthetics out performed the naturals.
Then in the syntetics the top three were Amsoil, Mobile 1, Redline. These three were far superior to there competitors in the test. while looking i found this http://www.bimmerzone.com/motoroil.htm. but that has nothing to do with what I am looking for, so I will keep trying.

 

I feel until some engineer for mazda or other major reputable rotary manufacturer/builder comes out with a full out study on the use of sythetics in rotary I will stick with what works--good old dino oil!!
Now hopefully, with the introduction of the RX-8 with its new rotary, it will open up the market again for rotary's. With more people working on improving the engine, at some point along the way there should be some kind of oil testing done!!
that's my two cents!!

 

He's right.
I've been road-racing a few times this year already, and I've had to drop a new engine in after every race....

....oh wait, no I haven't....

All stupidity aside, I don't think there has ever been a definitive case made for using either exclusively, unless some of the 'gurus' have data that I've never seen...

 

Simple solution to all this shtuff!- Remove the MOP system or convert it to run 2 stroke oil and run a sythetic oil. That is the best of three worlds.

 

No, the best of all worlds would be a working OMP, a in-expensive, but good quality synth (which the quality requirment alone rules out any synth other than redline/amsoil/royal purple/neo/ and Mobil1) and using a emissions friendly two stroke oil in the fuel system for high performance applications.

 

<<<<<<< Got skooled by the ICE MARK

 

You took my post out of context.

I suggested changing it immediately and then getting the data for himself, and then deciding what he should do.

Should he just run the syn not knowing anything about it? I think not. I made a suggestion based on the oil myself and many others use day to day without any problems. I don't see how this is bad advice? Change your oil to something everyone trusts. Don't just jump in and say "OK I'm running synthetic now! Umm.. What kind should I use?"

The statements should be flipped around. "Umm what kind should I use? OK I'm running synthetic now!"

I suggested going back to step 1 - getting all needed information before switching.

As you can see for yourself from what people have posted, not all synthetics are trustable. I didn't know which brands were and weren't acceptable, so I suggested changing to regular oil until he finds out exactly what brand to use.

Sorry to all of those whom have to watch me keep paraphrasing myself.

Edit: You also must have missed the part where I said NON-SYNTHETIC CASTROL 20w50. Castrol 20w50 is what we all use up here, and never had any problems. I was not implying to change from Mobil1 Syn to Castrol syn. Hence, what you quoted from me yourself: "(Non-Synthetic)"

But let's just be friends.

 

Reading from Page D3 of the 1991Mazda RX& workshop manual: Mazda recommends using 10w30 when the ambient temperatures are between -25 F and +125 F. They offer 5W30 for ambient temps that do not exceed 32F.

The 1991 Mazda Owners manual P 6-33 says the following about oil. API Service SG Energy Conserving II (ECII) (Mineral oil only).

The Mazda Tech's I've spoken with all say to use regular (non synthetic) motor oil. The issue seems to be with the way synthetic burns.

As long as you do your maintenance on a regular basis and change filter and oil at the recommended intervals or sooner, you shouldn't have a problem with the engine lasting.