miata short throw shifter writeup
#26
Man, nice writeup. Just bought one that was on ebay and I should get it in about a week. This is mainly to replace the stock shifter I have that decided to seperate into it's two respective pieces when the rubber fell apart. I look forward to it, and am also wondering: Do you know what thread diameter and pitch the lower half of the shifter is so I could attempt an adapter for it?
Thanks again for the writeup and pics. Good walkthrough.
Thanks again for the writeup and pics. Good walkthrough.
#27
I just bought this one.... I'll see how it goes. Thx for the write up
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1
#28
Thread Starter
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 47
From: Central Florida
let me know how that one works, you may have to take a small amount of material off the lower pivot to get it to fit into the bore in the shifter as i believe the miata one is slightly larger than the FC.
#29
hmm, ya know... I don't remember there ever being a bushing in the lower ball part where it meets the tranny.... so I'm prolly gonna have to grind the the ball down some eh? So there's 2 types of shifters out there, 1 with a bushing between the tranny and the shifter and one without a bushing?
#31
Got my shifter, it does in fact have that bottom bushing tho not obvious in the auction. It looks like this is a regular item of the ebay'r I got it from... so have at it guys, and thx for the writeup bud... should get mine on soon... also it is a 2 piece jobby like yours.
#32
i went to mazda today to pick up the shifter bushing and they told me that the part number has been changed. the new number is 8AF1-17-481...it now comes with the bushing, spring washer, and a paper gasket. it cost me 16.17 with tax and they actually had it in stock.
#34
if a factory look is wanted,
a 323 or precidia shift **** threads on perfectly as does the miata **** (naturally),
and are super cheap if not free at the wreckers.
still looks original unless you know exactly what to look for.
a 323 or precidia shift **** threads on perfectly as does the miata **** (naturally),
and are super cheap if not free at the wreckers.
still looks original unless you know exactly what to look for.
#35
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, B.C.
Originally Posted by Karack
the S4 **** will not fit, the threads are too small on the new shifter, you will need to find the proper sized adapter or fabricate one.
i have a Eurostar CF ball **** and i took it from my S4 to my uncles NA6 miata and there was no fittment issues, even though its a aftermarket **** its still threaded for a S4 so meh
BTW the shiftknob looked really sweet being so low on the miata *drool*
#39
i put mine in about 2 weeks ago, it is great, didnt try "super short" until today. Its just hard to get into 5th and R cause its really stiff but i like it, and i was able to get the upper bushing using the part number in the writeup for 5 bucks. In mine though, the shifter does rattle though, is there a was to use the bushing that comes with the shifter to sit at the bore? cause thats where my rattle seems to be from. Id also like to add that i did not have to sand the 1mm off the bottom, it went right in, not even a tight fit either.
#43
Originally Posted by SidewaysFC
Does it still have the same "1 in every 3 shifters will rattle" deal that mazdatrix claims? ...or is this a little different.
#44
Thread Starter
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 47
From: Central Florida
i believe the tapers on the shifters are different for various makes of the shifter, mine does it a little now and then as well, i will be investigating a way to clean up the rattle soon.
my assumption is the tapered edge of the shifter is hitting the inside of the shifter housing, by removing a little material from the edge and cleaning out the housing it should fix the issue.
my assumption is the tapered edge of the shifter is hitting the inside of the shifter housing, by removing a little material from the edge and cleaning out the housing it should fix the issue.
#49
The S5 tranny has a plastic bushing in the socket for the bottom of the lever.
The S4 bottom socket is steel.
I installed mine last night.
The stock lever end ball is .707", the Miata tip bushing measured .730" so I had to sand it down some.
The Miata lever bottom extension was about 1/16" too long, so I had to grind about .60" off the tip, so the pivot ball would seat.
My stock lever's rubber isolator was crumbling so the feel was more spongy than I realized.
Now I know why I kept missing 3rd.
The short throw lever is solid steel.
Holy **** what a difference!
Total throw is not much more than the H graphic on the ****.
Snap into 1st, zoom, bam into 2nd, screech, zoom, bam 3rd, chirp, zoom, beeeeee, 100, lift, YES!
(I see a broken front diff mount in my future.)
The S4 bottom socket is steel.
I installed mine last night.
The stock lever end ball is .707", the Miata tip bushing measured .730" so I had to sand it down some.
The Miata lever bottom extension was about 1/16" too long, so I had to grind about .60" off the tip, so the pivot ball would seat.
My stock lever's rubber isolator was crumbling so the feel was more spongy than I realized.
Now I know why I kept missing 3rd.
The short throw lever is solid steel.
Holy **** what a difference!
Total throw is not much more than the H graphic on the ****.
Snap into 1st, zoom, bam into 2nd, screech, zoom, bam 3rd, chirp, zoom, beeeeee, 100, lift, YES!
(I see a broken front diff mount in my future.)
Last edited by SureShot; 09-22-05 at 10:11 AM.