Metal manifold gasket? What the?
#1
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Metal manifold gasket? What the?
I just got my intake manifold gasket in today.
Its metal now? I dont trust this thing. I put it on according to the TSB, except i chose to use hylomar instead of molybednium grease.
What made Mazda do such a wierd thing? Did the old one work right
Its metal now? I dont trust this thing. I put it on according to the TSB, except i chose to use hylomar instead of molybednium grease.
What made Mazda do such a wierd thing? Did the old one work right
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#2
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They're actually two thin layers of metal sandwitching a thicker layer of crushable material in the middle. These seal better than paper gaskets because they can deform to any surfaces that aren't completely flat (within reason). But they're best feature is because the metal surface doesn't bake itself to the manifold like paper does, they're reusable, and come off without any effort. Trust me, once you've spent hours trying to remove all traces of the old gasket, only to miss a tiny bit and have it not seal properly, you'll never go back to paper...
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#5
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Re: Metal manifold gasket? What the?
Originally posted by 88 SE
I just got my intake manifold gasket in today.
Its metal now? I dont trust this thing. I put it on according to the TSB, except i chose to use hylomar instead of molybednium grease.
What made Mazda do such a wierd thing? Did the old one work right
I just got my intake manifold gasket in today.
Its metal now? I dont trust this thing. I put it on according to the TSB, except i chose to use hylomar instead of molybednium grease.
What made Mazda do such a wierd thing? Did the old one work right
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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'90 RX7 GXL
#7
Hmmm, strange.
I just got intake gaskets (block to manifold and lower to upper manifold) from MazdaTrix about a week ago and they sound like the old ones. I don't know if they're paper (its almost like a strange rubber type material - green color). Will these still work or should I ask for the metal ones? They are for a 88 Turbo II, does this make a difference? Maybe they were just trying to clear out old stock.
I'm assuming that I would still use Hylomar on these, right?
A little off topic. Are the TSBs posted online anywhere? I found the manuals on FC3S.org, but they didn't have any TSBs. Thanks.
I just got intake gaskets (block to manifold and lower to upper manifold) from MazdaTrix about a week ago and they sound like the old ones. I don't know if they're paper (its almost like a strange rubber type material - green color). Will these still work or should I ask for the metal ones? They are for a 88 Turbo II, does this make a difference? Maybe they were just trying to clear out old stock.
I'm assuming that I would still use Hylomar on these, right?
A little off topic. Are the TSBs posted online anywhere? I found the manuals on FC3S.org, but they didn't have any TSBs. Thanks.
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Last edited by snerd; 10-16-02 at 12:30 PM.
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#8
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Mazdatrix sells both versions I believe. The metal ones are a good bit more money ($20). But well worth it if you ask anybody who has worn off their fingerprints trying to get the cheaper version off. The tightening pattern is much like any manifold. Start in the middle and work counter-clockwise towards the outside.
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1. mazdaformance is a mazda dealer
2. the turbo 2's and 12a's dont get metal gaskets, i think maybe because of the coolant o rings.
mike
2. the turbo 2's and 12a's dont get metal gaskets, i think maybe because of the coolant o rings.
mike
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
They're actually two thin layers of metal sandwitching a thicker layer of crushable material in the middle. These seal better than paper gaskets because they can deform to any surfaces that aren't completely flat (within reason). But they're best feature is because the metal surface doesn't bake itself to the manifold like paper does, they're reusable, and come off without any effort. Trust me, once you've spent hours trying to remove all traces of the old gasket, only to miss a tiny bit and have it not seal properly, you'll never go back to paper...
They're actually two thin layers of metal sandwitching a thicker layer of crushable material in the middle. These seal better than paper gaskets because they can deform to any surfaces that aren't completely flat (within reason). But they're best feature is because the metal surface doesn't bake itself to the manifold like paper does, they're reusable, and come off without any effort. Trust me, once you've spent hours trying to remove all traces of the old gasket, only to miss a tiny bit and have it not seal properly, you'll never go back to paper...
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The parts prices for Rx-7's is getting way out of hand.
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Wow, back from the grave...
You missed the point. Paper gaskets work fine once. If the two components haven't been apart for a few years, the chances of being able to reuse the gasket are negligible. Plus you usually have to spend some time scaping the surfaces clean to remove evey last trace of baked paper. A metal gasket can be reused many times before needing to be replaced, and will come straight off every time without any effort. It's all about convenience, especially if you're (for example) removing manifolds regularly. If you don't want to pay for that convenience, then use paper ones. Like you said, they work fine.
Originally posted by Thaniel
I agree there may be some advantages but the paper gasket was on my car for 9+ years and worked fine. I only took the thing apart to clean the intake. I expect another paper one would go for another 9+ years.
I agree there may be some advantages but the paper gasket was on my car for 9+ years and worked fine. I only took the thing apart to clean the intake. I expect another paper one would go for another 9+ years.
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Great tool for cleaning gasket junk off:
WOOD CHISSEL (SP?)
My auto teacher taught us that, it works wonders. I cleaned entire V8 blocks, Cadilac Heads, and tons of other stuff with those. Real easy to get all the gasket off with, real cheap to buy, can sharpen them on a table top grinder. Use one with some solvent and your just laughing all the way to the bank (what bank?).
WOOD CHISSEL (SP?)
My auto teacher taught us that, it works wonders. I cleaned entire V8 blocks, Cadilac Heads, and tons of other stuff with those. Real easy to get all the gasket off with, real cheap to buy, can sharpen them on a table top grinder. Use one with some solvent and your just laughing all the way to the bank (what bank?).
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Till you cut the **** out of the aluminum and need a super thick paper gasket to fill in the voids...
Actually, I agree with the wood chissel method if you're careful and get one thats really wide. A flat file is another good tool if used very carefully. Gasket remover is by far the easiest way to get these things off though. Then roughing the surface with some 150 grit and lay the new gasket down with some form of lube and you're good to go.
Regular motor oil or white lithium grease works pretty good for paper gasket dressing. It ends up swelling the gasket just a little as it soaks in and causes a better seal than is possible from straight compression. It also allows the gasket to slip a little as its being tightened to allow for proper mating without potential of binding or tearing of the gasket as it's compressed.
Actually, I agree with the wood chissel method if you're careful and get one thats really wide. A flat file is another good tool if used very carefully. Gasket remover is by far the easiest way to get these things off though. Then roughing the surface with some 150 grit and lay the new gasket down with some form of lube and you're good to go.
Regular motor oil or white lithium grease works pretty good for paper gasket dressing. It ends up swelling the gasket just a little as it soaks in and causes a better seal than is possible from straight compression. It also allows the gasket to slip a little as its being tightened to allow for proper mating without potential of binding or tearing of the gasket as it's compressed.
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
It's all about convenience, especially if you're (for example) removing manifolds regularly. If you don't want to pay for that convenience, then use paper ones. Like you said, they work fine.
It's all about convenience, especially if you're (for example) removing manifolds regularly. If you don't want to pay for that convenience, then use paper ones. Like you said, they work fine.
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I couldn't find anyone that would sell the paper ones anymore. Maybe I missed somebody but everyone only offered me the expensive gasket.
Didn't look like trimming the metal gasket to closely fit any porting was possible. Well, it's on now. I'll see how good it works tommorow.