Members who HAVE DONE this swap (S4 N/A to S4 Turbo)
#1
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Members who HAVE DONE this swap (S4 N/A to S4 Turbo)
This build of mines will start when I have saved up (IMO) enough money to the swap and handle the other expenses as the car needs work in more areas so I will be keeping the motor stock. For now we will say the the limit for this swap 18K, I've narrowed down my search to between two sources(we will just call them Source A and Source B). the prices are $1,590 from source A and Source B is selling for $1,350.00 (none of these prices include S+H) both engines come complete with tranny and Engine wiring along with ECU as well. I'm leaning towards the Source A because its coming from within the states Source B is a jdm model ( I haven't looked up the difference between the two) can anyone tell me what the difference is? This is a list ive compiled to make the swap work please tell me if I am missing anything.
s4 13BT (/w tranny and ECU wiring)
boost meter
Turbo driveshaft
upgraded fuel pump
Turbo throttle cable
Turbo clutch cable
Turbo exhaust
down pipe
Turbo Hood
that is all I have so far. Also can share any experiences they had when it came to re wiring. Im sure the harness are completely different. Thanks for the help and feedback.
--David
s4 13BT (/w tranny and ECU wiring)
boost meter
Turbo driveshaft
upgraded fuel pump
Turbo throttle cable
Turbo clutch cable
Turbo exhaust
down pipe
Turbo Hood
that is all I have so far. Also can share any experiences they had when it came to re wiring. Im sure the harness are completely different. Thanks for the help and feedback.
--David
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No matter who you are getting that engine off of,you should be looking at rebuilding it anyways..They do not come Ready to go.
That engine has been removed by a 10 year old with an attitude and a high pressure sprayer...and we all know water gets into everything.
Now,let that engine sit in a container for 8 months before it gets sold..then shipped.
That engine has been removed by a 10 year old with an attitude and a high pressure sprayer...and we all know water gets into everything.
Now,let that engine sit in a container for 8 months before it gets sold..then shipped.
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I had the swap on one of my cars, and I can tell you absolutely for sure that it is not worth it. A much cheaper and easier option is to sell your current car and buy a Turbo II car. You can find them in our classified section, with the typical prices being about $800 for one that needs an engine rebuild, about $2,000 for one that runs, and about $5,000 for one that is in excellent shape.
Now, given that you are probably not going to listen to that advice, and are therefore doomed to spend thousands of dollars and several months more than necessary on this project...
s4 13BT (/w tranny and ECU wiring)
As stated in the above posts, you are going to want to rebuild the engine while it is out of the car. Personally, in order to increase efficiency and safety I would convert to a parallel fuel rail system with an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, but this is not required. The stock ECU is a crummy 1980s computer, and the wires are old crusty 1980s wire and old sensors that may or may not be working well. If you are going through all this trouble, then you may as well install an aftermarket EMS with a flying lead and new sensors, especially if your budget is $18K. Talk it over with your local tuner to see which EMS he recommends and can tune for your goals.
Turbo driveshaft
The turbo driveshaft will not fit to your NA differential, so you will need to also purchase a Turbo II differential and Turbo II halfshafts.
Turbo clutch cable
If the transmission doesn't come with one, you will need a Turbo II clutch slave cylinder and Turbo II starter.
Turbo exhaust
down pipe
The down pipe is part of the turbo exhaust. Check to see if you need new rubber hangars.
Turbo Hood
You don't need a turbo hood if you upgrade to a front mount intercooler.
This link may help:
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
Better idea: Buy an excellent Turbo II for $5K, spend $2,500 on new belts, hoses, tires, or other small fixes, put $5,500 into an IRA, and $5K into a money market account for emergencies.
Now, given that you are probably not going to listen to that advice, and are therefore doomed to spend thousands of dollars and several months more than necessary on this project...
s4 13BT (/w tranny and ECU wiring)
As stated in the above posts, you are going to want to rebuild the engine while it is out of the car. Personally, in order to increase efficiency and safety I would convert to a parallel fuel rail system with an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, but this is not required. The stock ECU is a crummy 1980s computer, and the wires are old crusty 1980s wire and old sensors that may or may not be working well. If you are going through all this trouble, then you may as well install an aftermarket EMS with a flying lead and new sensors, especially if your budget is $18K. Talk it over with your local tuner to see which EMS he recommends and can tune for your goals.
Turbo driveshaft
The turbo driveshaft will not fit to your NA differential, so you will need to also purchase a Turbo II differential and Turbo II halfshafts.
Turbo clutch cable
If the transmission doesn't come with one, you will need a Turbo II clutch slave cylinder and Turbo II starter.
Turbo exhaust
down pipe
The down pipe is part of the turbo exhaust. Check to see if you need new rubber hangars.
Turbo Hood
You don't need a turbo hood if you upgrade to a front mount intercooler.
This link may help:
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
Better idea: Buy an excellent Turbo II for $5K, spend $2,500 on new belts, hoses, tires, or other small fixes, put $5,500 into an IRA, and $5K into a money market account for emergencies.
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#8
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Thread Starter
No matter who you are getting that engine off of,you should be looking at rebuilding it anyways..They do not come Ready to go.
That engine has been removed by a 10 year old with an attitude and a high pressure sprayer...and we all know water gets into everything.
Now,let that engine sit in a container for 8 months before it gets sold..then shipped.
That engine has been removed by a 10 year old with an attitude and a high pressure sprayer...and we all know water gets into everything.
Now,let that engine sit in a container for 8 months before it gets sold..then shipped.
#9
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Thread Starter
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
I had the swap on one of my cars, and I can tell you absolutely for sure that it is not worth it. A much cheaper and easier option is to sell your current car and buy a Turbo II car. You can find them in our classified section, with the typical prices being about $800 for one that needs an engine rebuild, about $2,000 for one that runs, and about $5,000 for one that is in excellent shape.
Now, given that you are probably not going to listen to that advice, and are therefore doomed to spend thousands of dollars and several months more than necessary on this project...
s4 13BT (/w tranny and ECU wiring)
As stated in the above posts, you are going to want to rebuild the engine while it is out of the car. Personally, in order to increase efficiency and safety I would convert to a parallel fuel rail system with an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, but this is not required. The stock ECU is a crummy 1980s computer, and the wires are old crusty 1980s wire and old sensors that may or may not be working well. If you are going through all this trouble, then you may as well install an aftermarket EMS with a flying lead and new sensors, especially if your budget is $18K. Talk it over with your local tuner to see which EMS he recommends and can tune for your goals.
Turbo driveshaft
The turbo driveshaft will not fit to your NA differential, so you will need to also purchase a Turbo II differential and Turbo II halfshafts.
Turbo clutch cable
If the transmission doesn't come with one, you will need a Turbo II clutch slave cylinder and Turbo II starter.
Turbo exhaust
down pipe
The down pipe is part of the turbo exhaust. Check to see if you need new rubber hangars.
Turbo Hood
You don't need a turbo hood if you upgrade to a front mount intercooler.
This link may help:
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
Better idea: Buy an excellent Turbo II for $5K, spend $2,500 on new belts, hoses, tires, or other small fixes, put $5,500 into an IRA, and $5K into a money market account for emergencies.
Now, given that you are probably not going to listen to that advice, and are therefore doomed to spend thousands of dollars and several months more than necessary on this project...
s4 13BT (/w tranny and ECU wiring)
As stated in the above posts, you are going to want to rebuild the engine while it is out of the car. Personally, in order to increase efficiency and safety I would convert to a parallel fuel rail system with an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, but this is not required. The stock ECU is a crummy 1980s computer, and the wires are old crusty 1980s wire and old sensors that may or may not be working well. If you are going through all this trouble, then you may as well install an aftermarket EMS with a flying lead and new sensors, especially if your budget is $18K. Talk it over with your local tuner to see which EMS he recommends and can tune for your goals.
Turbo driveshaft
The turbo driveshaft will not fit to your NA differential, so you will need to also purchase a Turbo II differential and Turbo II halfshafts.
Turbo clutch cable
If the transmission doesn't come with one, you will need a Turbo II clutch slave cylinder and Turbo II starter.
Turbo exhaust
down pipe
The down pipe is part of the turbo exhaust. Check to see if you need new rubber hangars.
Turbo Hood
You don't need a turbo hood if you upgrade to a front mount intercooler.
This link may help:
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
Better idea: Buy an excellent Turbo II for $5K, spend $2,500 on new belts, hoses, tires, or other small fixes, put $5,500 into an IRA, and $5K into a money market account for emergencies.
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as far as the engine goes its the same, except the US engine has a different spark plug location. the JDM engine uses the S5 and FD spark plug location.
also the JDM engine wiring harness goes to the other side of the car, as they both have the ECU on the passenger side.
the ECU is different, but it just lacks the EGR and AWS outputs.
#16
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I think that Mazda discontinued them. Call Ray at Malloy Mazda to check on parts.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...mazda-1033616/
Mazdatrix - 86-92 Turbo Engines
#17
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Thread Starter
OK, so sell whatever parts you can online, have the junk yard pick up the rest of the body, buy a nice Turbo II car for 1/3 of your budget, and put the rest of the money to good use rather than tossing it down the drain.
Don't do it. Stick with the stock ECU, or upgrade to a pre-tuned Rtek Stage 1.
I think that Mazda discontinued them. Call Ray at Malloy Mazda to check on parts.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...mazda-1033616/
Hehehe, you obviously haven't changed out a starter before. Don't bother changing it until it starts to go bad.
OK, but I am not a mechanic and my conversion does not have a 13BT engine, so I can only help with the drivetrain. Speaking of which, it is easiest to swap out the entire rear subframe as a unit rather than piece together each part. Plan on using a sledge hammer to remove the old brake rotors, and you may need to replace some of the studs. May God have mercy on your soul when you try to remove the old bushings.
Mazdatrix - 86-92 Turbo Engines
Don't do it. Stick with the stock ECU, or upgrade to a pre-tuned Rtek Stage 1.
I think that Mazda discontinued them. Call Ray at Malloy Mazda to check on parts.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...mazda-1033616/
Hehehe, you obviously haven't changed out a starter before. Don't bother changing it until it starts to go bad.
OK, but I am not a mechanic and my conversion does not have a 13BT engine, so I can only help with the drivetrain. Speaking of which, it is easiest to swap out the entire rear subframe as a unit rather than piece together each part. Plan on using a sledge hammer to remove the old brake rotors, and you may need to replace some of the studs. May God have mercy on your soul when you try to remove the old bushings.
Mazdatrix - 86-92 Turbo Engines
#18
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Thread Starter
the JDM S4 engine does not have EGR or AWS, and there is a simplified ACV, also the air pump is smaller. they also didn't have the pre cat in Japan, all of this being a moot point as the JDM engine actually passes the CA smog test out the tailpipe, and i'm sure you're going to remove all this stuff anyways
as far as the engine goes its the same, except the US engine has a different spark plug location. the JDM engine uses the S5 and FD spark plug location.
also the JDM engine wiring harness goes to the other side of the car, as they both have the ECU on the passenger side.
the ECU is different, but it just lacks the EGR and AWS outputs.
as far as the engine goes its the same, except the US engine has a different spark plug location. the JDM engine uses the S5 and FD spark plug location.
also the JDM engine wiring harness goes to the other side of the car, as they both have the ECU on the passenger side.
the ECU is different, but it just lacks the EGR and AWS outputs.
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