I was wondering if anyone has used an old mazdatrix strut tower brace with an fd alternator on an s5? I installed an fd alternator, and it has about a busisness cards amount of clearance between alt and strut tower bar. When the engine is running it rides on the strut tower transfering all engine noises and vibrations. I can also hear the brakes grab through the chassis now. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

 

Can try running a slightly smaller alt belt, or clearancing the alternator case itself.


Another alternative would be to try putting a washer or two under where the strut bar mounts to the strut towers to pick it up a fraction.

 

I was thinking of grinding the ribs of the alt down. Also had the idea with spacing the strut tower up but I think I would have to make plates for the strut tower to sit on, so it has the same amount of contact area to the body. The alternator doesnt go down much anymore than its sitting, so the smaller belt wouldnt help.

 

I have the four point Mazdatrix strut tower with the same engine brace you have on my S5 Turbovert. The one size smaller belt is exactly the solution I used. A minor PITA to install, but all in the best solution as you achieve proper tightness without hitting the cross bar.

Any other solution would be messing with the structural integrity of something. Never a good thing.

 

Awesome, I guess Ill give it a shot. I think I may have to clearance the underside of the alt housing to get the smaller belt on. Do I also need to change the fuse? Im running the stock one and it hasnt blown with e fan on, headlights on, and blower motor running on high.

 

You're 30 amp fuse should be fine.

First install of the new smaller belt, have both bolts off before working the belt onto the pulley. Once on, main bolt then adj. bolt. The belt will stretch a bit, so easier the second time around.

 

I cut a piece of my alternator off. There is a round protrusion that touches the water pump housing that can be removed. Then the body can actually rest on the housing. I think I have a 305(?) length belt on it.

 

Correct, there's a big hump that does virtually nothing but limit the downward travel of the alternator on the bottom of it. Removal will allow the alternator to rest much closer to the water pump housing. Just be very careful when cutting to not get any shavings of metal inside the case.

 

Got the alt on with clearance now. Got a belt 1/2 inch smaller and ground the round part of the alt so it could drop further down. Thanks for the help.

 

that alr chassis is so strong it will rub a hole in the strut bar for itself before you see damage to the alt cage.