Mazda fuel filter or aftermarket?
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Mazda fuel filter or aftermarket?
Hey guys, I think its past time to get a new fuel filter so any thoughts on staying with the Mazda part or would any auto parts store have a good enough one? Do they have differing fuel rates? Thanks & happy motoring!
#6
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You know how your suppose to drain the tank every 100K or so, the fuel strainer keep those larger particles from going through the fuel pump and into your engine.
I was thinking it was before the fuel pump. You might also want to replace the gasket as well while the tanks down.
I was thinking it was before the fuel pump. You might also want to replace the gasket as well while the tanks down.
#7
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I just went to partsource yesterday, and purchased some brand of fuel filter, I'm not sure which because I threw the box away. Anyway, it said "Super high-flow" on the box. Anyway, when I took out my old fuel filter it was BLACK with grime and ****. I don't know how fuel was getting through there at all. Needless to say, after putting in the new fuel filter, the car runs so much better. I'm pretty sure that Mazda's filter is going to be the same quality or worse, and they'll charge more for it. Go with aftermarket.
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#8
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I had excellent results with aftermarket from a local Kragen parts store.
The Fuel pump filter is, I assume, is the screen box around the bottom of the fuel pump assembly. If it is dirty, then you probably have a bigger problem with tank sediments. You should probably pull the whole tank (Not that tough, two bolts for the support straps and disconnect the filler hose connecter and pump) and have it cleaned out at your local radiator shop.
Related, I HIGHLY endorse you pull your injectors and ship them to RC Engineering (www.rceng.com) and have them back flushed and tuned. Only costs $20 each and you'll be beyond surprised what a difference in performance you'll get as a result. It should also fix a common hard starting problem caused by drippy injectors (alternative to Mazdatrix's H-valve for that problem).
The Fuel pump filter is, I assume, is the screen box around the bottom of the fuel pump assembly. If it is dirty, then you probably have a bigger problem with tank sediments. You should probably pull the whole tank (Not that tough, two bolts for the support straps and disconnect the filler hose connecter and pump) and have it cleaned out at your local radiator shop.
Related, I HIGHLY endorse you pull your injectors and ship them to RC Engineering (www.rceng.com) and have them back flushed and tuned. Only costs $20 each and you'll be beyond surprised what a difference in performance you'll get as a result. It should also fix a common hard starting problem caused by drippy injectors (alternative to Mazdatrix's H-valve for that problem).
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Thanks guys! I don't have the time now to pull the tank or have the injectors sent out for cleaning, as my "88 T2" is my daily driver. But one step at a time I guess.
Happy motoring!
Happy motoring!
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