Is this the master or slave cylander?
#1
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Is this the master or slave cylander?
So today i went to start my car and the clutch was really soft and it didnt disengage untill it was practically on the floor. i opened up the master cylander and there was no fluid so i put some in. now its still soft and disengages too far down but its driveable. any ideas guys?
thanks.
thanks.
#3
Eet fase
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If the fluid in the master cylinder was low enough to introduce air into the system, you have a problem. You probably need to bleed the system at the slave cylinder to get it back where it should be. This usually requires two people to do.
#5
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alright,
i have pumped the clutch it helps a little, but will go back after a few times i use it.
i bled the clutch a few months ago with the bleeder on top of the transmision. maybe i did something wrong though and caused this.
and i did not see any fluid on my garage floor either.
i have pumped the clutch it helps a little, but will go back after a few times i use it.
i bled the clutch a few months ago with the bleeder on top of the transmision. maybe i did something wrong though and caused this.
and i did not see any fluid on my garage floor either.
#6
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this happened to me ....
turned out it was the clutch line ... comes out from close to the slave cylinder i think ...
its a rubber line ... anyway .. mine was cracked and allowing air into the system ...
i bought a SS replacement from mazdatrix ... hasnt show a problem since ...
turned out it was the clutch line ... comes out from close to the slave cylinder i think ...
its a rubber line ... anyway .. mine was cracked and allowing air into the system ...
i bought a SS replacement from mazdatrix ... hasnt show a problem since ...
#7
Needs more Displacement.
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Did you inspect for any leaks?? If it's still feeling weak you want to fix that just replace them, its about 30 mintues of work and costs about $100.00 from NAPA for both master and slave.
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#8
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haha no i didnt i just looked on the ground real quick i had to hurry up and get to school. i will check the hose. and if thats not the problem i will just replace them both because i wanted a firmer clutch anyways.
#11
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you probably have air in the system. I had this problem a few weeks ago. there should be a writeup somewhere around here (after you find and fix the leak(if any(mine didn't have a leak that i could see, i just *magicaly* ran out)))
#12
the clutch bleed nipple is located ontop of the slave cylinder...which is bolted on top of the trans housing.....u bleed that the same u would to brakes....if that doesnt help..then its not ur clutch system....u need new pressure plates.....
#13
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Ive had to deal with a LOT of hydrolic issues so here we go. Do this
1st: Visually inspect all componets for leaks ... If it leaks then replace the leaking part (almost always line or slave cyl.)
2nd: Bleed the system. I see people do it WAY wrong everyday and they defend their method tooth and nail... But I dont care what they think... THIS is the right way. Most of the "other" ways get air in the system... somtimes alot... somtimes only a little to where it still works but not as well as it should. Get a friend for this (beer helps). Get a bottle of break fluid on the ready and fill the res. all the way up. Open the bleeder on the clutch and press the clutch down and HOLD IT. Close the valve and bring the clutch pedal back up. Make sure to keep the res full. REPEAT untill new fluid is coming out and no air is coming out. NEVER bring the pedal back up unless the bleeder is CLOSED or air will get in the system.
3: If it STILL doesnt work and your SURE there are NO leaks then the master cyl is blown (it wont leak because the fluid will just pass the cylinder). If the slave is blown IT WILL LEAK)
Hints: Clean off areas around components to detect leaks easier. Use the UP, DOWN method when bleeding to keep the air out... take is slow so you have ZERO air in the system. It goes as follow. Open valve, clutch down, close valve, clutch up, repeat. Do one step at a time and take your time and I promise a perfect bleed.
Finally if none of these work you have a broken drivetrain component (not likly)
1st: Visually inspect all componets for leaks ... If it leaks then replace the leaking part (almost always line or slave cyl.)
2nd: Bleed the system. I see people do it WAY wrong everyday and they defend their method tooth and nail... But I dont care what they think... THIS is the right way. Most of the "other" ways get air in the system... somtimes alot... somtimes only a little to where it still works but not as well as it should. Get a friend for this (beer helps). Get a bottle of break fluid on the ready and fill the res. all the way up. Open the bleeder on the clutch and press the clutch down and HOLD IT. Close the valve and bring the clutch pedal back up. Make sure to keep the res full. REPEAT untill new fluid is coming out and no air is coming out. NEVER bring the pedal back up unless the bleeder is CLOSED or air will get in the system.
3: If it STILL doesnt work and your SURE there are NO leaks then the master cyl is blown (it wont leak because the fluid will just pass the cylinder). If the slave is blown IT WILL LEAK)
Hints: Clean off areas around components to detect leaks easier. Use the UP, DOWN method when bleeding to keep the air out... take is slow so you have ZERO air in the system. It goes as follow. Open valve, clutch down, close valve, clutch up, repeat. Do one step at a time and take your time and I promise a perfect bleed.
Finally if none of these work you have a broken drivetrain component (not likly)
#14
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i try and pump it a couple times before i open the bleeder valve to get good pressure through the lines.... also, id replace the slave and master cylinder...why not, slave is cheap enough to still get the master, and while your at it do the stainless braided clutch lines, make it one simple job.
#15
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Originally Posted by bradenscreed
i try and pump it a couple times before i open the bleeder valve to get good pressure through the lines.... also, id replace the slave and master cylinder...why not, slave is cheap enough to still get the master, and while your at it do the stainless braided clutch lines, make it one simple job.
#16
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look up under the driver's side dash and see if the fluid is coming through the firewall, this happens when the black rubber cups inside the master cyclinder break down and leaves fluid into the car and leaves the engine bay clean. also the carpet could be wet and smell like fluid.
#17
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i had the exact same problem with my car. all i had to do to fix it was replacing the master cylinder. it was cheap and it was a quick fix. i am almost positve that this is all u need to do.
#18
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Never heard of it leaking into the car before. But that is more than possible. If you are very mechanical they sell rebuild kits if you feel like taking it apart. Personally I would (and did) buy a whole new one and rebuild my old one as a spare.