Here's a little reading for you MMO fanatics.


Increased Standard Additives: More Is Not Necessarily Better
Though some additives may not contain anything harmful to your engine, and even some things that could be beneficial, most experts still recommend that you avoid their use. The reason for this is that your oil, as purchased from one of the major oil companies, already contains a very extensive additive package. This package is made up of numerous, specific additive components, blended to achieve a specific formula that will meet the requirements of your engine. Usually, at least several of these additives will be synergistic. That is, they react mutually, in groups of two or more, to create an effect that none of them could attain individually. Changing or adding to this formula can upset the balance and negate the protective effect the formula was meant to achieve, even if you are only adding more of something that was already included in the initial package. If it helps, try to think of your oil like a cake recipe. Just because the original recipe calls for two eggs (which makes for a very moist and tasty cake), do you think adding four more eggs is going to make the cake better? Of course not. You're going to upset the carefully calculated balance of ingredients and magnify the effect the eggs have on the recipe to the point that it ruins the entire cake. Adding more of a specific additive already contained in your oil is likely to produce similar results. This information should also be taken into account when adding to the oil already in your bike or when mixing oils for any reason, such as synthetic with petroleum. In these cases, always make sure the oils you are putting together have the same rating (SA, SE, SC, etc.). This tells you their additive packages are basically the same, or at least compatible, and are less likely to upset the balance or counteract each other.

Detergents And Solvents Many of the older, better-known oil treatments on the market do not make claims nearly so lavish as the new upstarts. Old standbys like Bardahl, Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil, instead offer things like "quieter lifters," "reduced oil burning" and a "cleaner engine." Most of these products are made up of solvents and detergents designed to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits inside your engine so they can be flushed or burned out. Wynn's Friction Proofing Oil, for example, is 83 percent kerosene. Other brands use naphthalene, xylene, acetone and isopropanol. Usually, these ingredients will be found in a base of standard mineral oil. In general, these products are designed to do just the opposite of what the PTFE and zinc phosphate additives claim to do. Instead of leaving behind a "coating" or a "plating" on your engine surfaces, they are designed to strip away such things. All of these products will strip sludge and deposits out and clean up your engine, particularly if it is an older, abused one. The problem is, unless you have some way of determining just how much is needed to remove your deposits without going any further, such solvents also can strip away the boundary lubrication layer provided by your oil. Overuse of solvents is an easy trap to fall into, and one which can promote harmful metal-to-metal contact within your engine. As a general rule of thumb these products had their place and were at least moderately useful on older automobile and motorcycle engines of the Fifties and Sixties, but are basically unneeded on the more efficient engine designs of the past two decades.

 

I'm aware of the TC-W3 branding and what it means. What I want to know is if he learned whether the price difference may reflect a difference in quality/contents...


I think you need to take another swing at your second sentence there...

 

the majority of oils come out of the same refinary with just a different packaging. Lot more packaging of oils than refineries. The most expensive is not necesarily the best. We get very little snow here and I have never seen a snowmobile in person so really didn't even pay attention to the differences between watercrft pre-mix and snow mobile pre-mix Amur. The main price difference I found was between Synthetic and petrolium based. Sea Doo brand pre-mix does have one of the lowest ash contents though of any of the oils I looked into. It is readily available to me and not overpriced for the non-synthetic.

I think Sea Doo makes Snowmobiles though and wonder why it would use a different pre-mix other than the fact the snowmobile will be run in cold weather where as the jet ski will be run in warm weather. That might be your answer Amur, temperature difference and particular chemicals in the snow mobile version to help keep the gas from gelling up and running right in freezing or below.

Also since the Jet Ski is run in water I would bet a big selling point would be a cleaner burn as not to have unburnt oil polluting the lakes and rivers. Thats why I looked at watercraft pre-mix in the first place, a clean burn.

 

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Guess who just rolled over to 20,000 miles last week?? Premixing MMO from day 1

 

i premixed mmo for awhile but i wasn't comfortable with it, i just can't afford to pop an engine, i wish you success with your engine hornbm, i really want it to last 250k, but im not gonna jump on the bandwagon until i see some serious miles on that beast. I bet that engine is clean, because mmo is basically a mineral spirit, only thing i worry about is how it lubricates, i would love to see the rotor housings at this point, but i know your not gonna take apart the engine for that!

 

I use MMO about once every two months or so. It makes my exhaust smell all nice and peppermint-like.