Hey guys
These questions might sound a bit newbish but i'd rather be safe than sorry. I just picked up some MMO Ultimate Engine Protecion and MMO Super Gas Treatment. I figured since i really don't know the condition of seals in my car nor the fuel system i'd give both of these a try. I'm assuming the Engine Protectant is what you guys all speak of when talking about MMO. I'm just worried about the Super Gas Treatment. It's supposed to clean the fuel system, but i'm worried cuz it says its a petroleum distillatant.
So here is the question, should i run the gas treatment? will it hurt the seals at all? will it even work? I figured its MMO, so its a pretty decent enough company.
Thanks for your time. Any thought, opinions or anything would be helpful.

 

the mmo I"ve seen does both. you use the same can to put in the crank case as you put in the fuel system. I've never heard of that super duper gas treatment

 

When I hear MMO I think of this: which I guess is what you're calling the "ultimate engine protection" stuff. I've never seen that "super gas treatment" but the stores around here a bit flakey with non-mainstream *cough*pennzoil*cough* products as it is. Like hondahater said, You can put the "ultimate engine protection" stuff in both the crankcase and fuel system (I've been using it as a premix for almost 1k miles now). I dunno about that gas treatment, I wouldn't throw it in but then again, I tend to be over paranoid.

 

its been covered in alot of detail-- so much detail we went out and posted copies of MMO MSDS's. Do a search.

 

Take them both back to the store and get your money back. Now, spend that money on something useful.

 

Them be fightin' words, Aaron.

 

You guys should really stay away from these so called "magic oils" .
All it needs is regular oil changes. Use proper viscosity and you will be fine.

 

Pardon? I use it because my OMP is deader than a doorknob. There's nothing wrong with throwing some MMO in your gas or oil system.

 

If your OMP is dead, use a TCW-3 2 stroke oil not MMO. You have any idea how high it's ash content is??

You can get TCW-3 oil ANYWHERE you buy oil.

 

That and MMO doesn't lubricate well I don't think.

 

MMO thins the oil. It does not increase viscosity. It's something you do not want to use in your oil in the summer.

 

It's all snake oil.

 

i'm getting really mixed msgs. i do have my stock OMP and it seems to be working fine. i was just worried that running the fuel system cleaner. since no one has experience on this product.. i guess my Tii will have to be the test animal. i'm sure nothing will happen good or bad, but i would like to try and give the fuel system a cleaning... unless someone else can suggest another way.

 

Well, the conclusion I've come to after a lot of these threads:

MMO as the only premix: Some people swear by it, but usually have absurdly low miles using it and I have yet to see someone rip a MMO premix engine apart and report on the wear and overall internal condition. I use TCW-3 2-cycle oil for premix, which has been repeatedly proven on this forum to work quite well and leave very little ash/carbon behind. The general conclusion after looking at the MSDS for MMO was that it has little, if any, value as premix. If someone runs an engine 20,000+ miles using only MMO as premix, tears it down, and reports on the wear and engine condition, then things can be discussed. I doubt it would see 20k miles though.

MMO in the crankcase oil: Supposedly helps clean stuff up. I change my oil every 2000 miles, and it's usually still reasonably clean at that point. MMO isn't going in my crankcase any time soon.

MMO as fuel system cleaner with either a functioning OMP or premix: *shrug* Probably won't hurt anything. Questionable as to it's helpfulness though.

Fuel Injector Cleaner in the gas tank: Sure. Go for it. It might help some.

Remove your injectors, get them sent somewhere to be reverse flow cleaned, balanced, etc: The best way to clean your injectors.

Personally, I'd tend to agree with Aaron about MMO, at least on a reasonably well maintained '7. Now, for quieting clicking lifters on an ancient Subaru engine, it seems to help people a lot. Rotary engines don't have all the random little oil passages that many piston engines do.

-=Russ=-

 

I see no problem with the injector cleaner, but the mmo i don't know about that, especially as pre-mix if your OMP isn't working MMO is definetly not a replacement for oil

 

MMO will make deposits on your rotors. I know. I used it on a new engine for 1k before blowing it up. When we took it apart there were some crazy deposits on the rotor we can only think came from the MMO as I used nothing else as pre mix. I ran Castrol GTX petrolium motor oil in the engine and it burns clean. Don't run MMO as pre mix.

 

If you want to use some fuel system cleaner, use Redline or BG44K and not those all purpose oil/fuel/windshield/coolant/trans fluid. j/k

 

thanks guys.. sorry to open up this can of worms again. and i have no intention of using MMO as premix. so no worries on that part. This is exactly why i post this question... everyone has been more than helpful.

 

Dount anyone is going to make it to 20,000??? Well see about that, Im at 18,000 right now, running MMO as premix from day one with NO OMP. And I drive the LIVING **** out of my car. Car runs as strong as when I finished the break in period. I go to the drag strip all the time, and on the street im just nuts

Every thousand miles I wonder more and more what kind of crazy crack you MMO haters are smoking

 

RIGHT.... I wrecked my car when the motor had about 12,000 miles on it, and as I was swapping it into the new car, I looked in the exhaust ports with a flashlight. And guess what? Perfectly clean!

 

hornbm- I looked into this a while back when I first heard about using MMO for various uses. Pulled up the MSDS, which is what hypercritical guys in my profession do. Even bought a bottle of the stuff for my rebuild, figuring maybe Bruce Turrentine (sp) was on to something.

Came to the conclusion it sucks as a prelube for buildup, because it "creeps" into the ring passages from the housing faces. Not a good thing to get a thin lubricant saturating the seals and undermining the sealing properties...Also came to the conclusion that it would suck as a film or shear lubricant, which is what you'd want for internal lubrication for the friction surfaces. All you have to do is look at it and rub it between your fingers, no rocket science required...

You are severely reducing the useful life of your engine's contact surfaces, whether you care to admit it or not...

 

When we had the MMO debate in the first gen section it came out in a draw for a few very good reasons.

The first being, that we have never seen anybody kill an engine because of premixing MMO. People have been doing that long before this forum was ever around, and Im sure we would have heard of at least one instance by now.

Second, yes MMO is a very thin oil, however we dont even know what the lubrication requirnments of the rotary engine are. The viscosity may be just fine. Even if it was less than was nessacary, the ammount we mix in would more than make up for it.

Also if your worried about the MMO going past the seals... id be more worried about something like GAS getting there first.

Lastly, any premix is better than that horrid OMP

 

Detonation and not MMO killed my engine. I can tell you though after 1k miles of running MMO as a pre mix when we took the engine apart after it blew there were some bad deposits on the rotors. That is NOT B.S. Perhaps I misworded my post, MMO DID NOT cause engine failure, however it DID leave deposits on the rotors.

Following that experience and many hours of research and talking to people I have come to the conclusion that a 2-stroke premix oil for watercraft is as good as you will find. It is made to be mixed with gas, does lubricate well without leaving deposits and in the case of watercraft manufacturer oil it will burn cleaner (less ash) .

 

Quick question for you: What, then, is the difference between marine and snowmobile premixing oils? They're priced differently but otherwise appear to be the same stuff...

 

As long as it's made specifically for a 2 stroke that's what you use and has the TCW-3 mark.
Some marine and snowmoblies are 4 stroke engines which is used for lubrication and not used to mix with fuel.