White??? No stripes???

Dude, at this point you might want to think about running some new wires...

The water thermo sensor wiring comes out of the emissions harness, around the part that feeds the primary injectors. Is this what you're playing with, or the bigger one that runs behind the alt?

 

I"m playing with the bigger one that is behind the alternator however let me check the other one.... Can I get to the smaller one without taking the uim off???

 

ok the only smaller harness I see is coming from the big one to the bac valve.

 

It's gonna be a bitch, but you should at least see the "stubs" for the thermo sensor wiring, or if you're really lucky, maybe the whole plug!!!

If you think it might be down there somewhere, take the alt off for more room to maneuver. Pull the neg batt cable first, so you don't blow any more fuses

 

lol, ok let me look again!

 

ok I just looked and there is nothing I can see so tomorrow I'm going to take out the alternator. I tried to take it out just now but my strut tower bar is in the damn way, GRRRRR. anyways thanks for your help and I'll start again on it tomorrow evening.

 

That's cool, it's time for me to hit the road anyway

 

Is your car an s4 or s5?First check the compression of the engine then go from there.Also check the thermo plug in back of the water housing.When it gets dirty,loose or the sensor goes bad it will make the car run on one rotor(s4).Hope this helps any.

is this true???? found this when doing a search for water thermal sensor

 

Microtech computer system.

 

lol, yeah If I could only afford one

 

"Is your car an s4 or s5?First check the compression of the engine then go from there.Also check the thermo plug in back of the water housing.When it gets dirty,loose or the sensor goes bad it will make the car run on one rotor(s4).Hope this helps any."

I've never heard of that one, although something funky like that was going on when mine was intermittently giving me hell, lol...It was almost like a fuel cut, and it only lasted a second or two, then everything was back to normal...Since the ECU reverts to a preset value of 176*F when that sensor's signal is lost, I would think she would run almost normal, especially after warming up, but, stranger things have happened

Another symptom was that cranking times were doubled before she started, instead of the usual 2 seconds or so...

 

crazy, realy my car runs great cranks great just only thing that it does is that hesitation and yes its only for like a second and then it goes away. Like I said I'm going to take the alternator off today and check for that connection.

 

yeah mines going away a lil bit at a time. haha. so dont feel bad honda hater. looks like im winning this time. mwahaha. do you have a t2. and if so is the TID stock or is it modded. if so check the rubber hose that connects the turbo housing to the piping that you made if you did the after market TID. if its rubber it will melt and cause a leak. i wish my pressure sensor saw that much voltage. mine says 12v. haha.

did you check your atmospheric pressure sensor? and id def put a plug on your thermosensor. it sounds like your problem. if you have a s5, and you have a omp removed. if the wire is disconnected, it will cause the car to act like ****. of course my hesitations are all over the boost range. so i guess ur a lil ahead.

I thought you got your car to work by removing your msd ignitors. cant you just take whatever you just put on off. Or am i thinking of somene else?

 

Yeah I have an 88tII with the mop still on. I need to check my tid because it is the 3" mod however last time I check there was absolutley no cracks in it. Hopefully the problem is that connector however I can't find the connector for the life of me. I still need to take out the alternator to see back there however I've looked and looked and still can't find it. I still haven't checked my boost sensor however that maybe part of the cause I'm not sure it's just kinda strange how if it is hooked up my hesitation comes on exactly 1k rpm earlier than if it is disconnected. Also yes when I took the msd coils off I didn't have any hesitation (msd made my car almost undrivable due to lack of power smoking etc... probably from one bad coil) Anyways the next day I go back out to test drive it and bam its hesitating again Anyways good luck to you and if you can post your results from your hesitation problems because this board needs to see more fixes on this problem.

 

ok I just took off the alternator and strut tower bar and I still don't see that conector let alone another smaller harness that it would plug into. The only harnes I see is the thick one and the thiner one that goes to the bac valve. Does anyone have pictures ??? Thanks.

 

I just remembered something- the NA and T2's have different harnesses for the alt plug at the back, right? Somebody say something, lol...

In any case, my water thermo wiring comes from the harness that sits on top of the engine, and feeds the primary injectors, the O2 sensor, and the ECU ground at the rear rotor housing. Can you see anything AT ALL up under there with the alt off?

I hope I'm not leading you on a "wild goose chase", lol...

You know, you really need to read this circuit out from the ECU also, just to see what the ECU is getting on that pin, if anything...Check out the stuff that Hailers posted for his readings, pin 2I, I believe...(pos lead at the pin, neg to ground, with the ECU plug ON)

 

i have a 88 t2 also. so ill go out right now and take a pic for you hondahater.


my 87 n/a harness had a diff plug then on my t2 88 harness for the alternator

 

thanks for the picture! I don't see that connector anywhere I just need a new damn harness. I took the alternator off and the strut tower however I may need to take the uim manifold off I've been avoiding this for a long time however it is about time and while I'm down there I can maybe remove the vac spider (if not too hard) and also replace the pd with a banjo bolt as well as look at the injectors to make sure they aren't dirty .............. This just turned into a bigger project, damn! Oh well what we will do for these cars.

 

Unless you're rolling in cash, don't worry about a new harness just yet...

Let me get this straight- you can see the water thermo sensor itself sticking out of the water pump housing, just behind & to the side of the alt, right? But no plug is on it, nor is anything around in the area that looks like the plug for it?

That's actually a good idea, pulling the UIM, especially if you haven't done it yet- get all the heat rotted fuel hoses outta there, change all of your injector grommets & o-rings, coolant hoses, check the harness over real good...You might just actually fix some hidden problems...

 

Will do man! Hopefully this weekend I'm going to do this however I guess it will have to be a couple of days because I'm going to have to order the orings and grommets. Oh yeah I see the green sensor sticking out of the housing right next to the alternator however I don't see the connector that is supposed to connect it so yes what you discribed is exactly what I can't find. Hummmmm strange stuff.

 

All right, good luck...And I don't want to see any "Help, I've dropped a grommet down into the LIM" threads from you, OK?

Get some 2" masking or painter's tape and cover those LIM holes as soon as you get the UIM off...

And you may need some or all of the following:

black, red, or grey RTV
upper-to-lower intake gasket
foot or more of hi-pressure fuel injection hose
PD, banjo bolt, whatever you choose, plus the crush washers (2)
(4) injector upper grommets
(4) injector lower grommets
(5) injector o-rings (1 for the FPR if ya want)
6' of new vac hose
the small water hoses, if needed

I'm sure I'm forgetting some things...Shouldn't need to touch the air bleeds, unless they're really loose, then you'll need a couple of o-rings for each. Make sure to very carefully clean around the tops of the air bleeds after the injectors are out, so nothing falls down in there. You'll see what I mean when you get there. And oh hey- find the thermo sensor plug

 

Man I'm going to owe you some beer or something! I really really really appreciate all your help!!!! If your ever in southeast texas or southwest louisiana area let me know and all the beer and food is on me (not joking)!!! Anyways I'm going to order that stuff from mazda trix tonight. Thanks again!!!!!

ps. what are the crush washers for???

 

Not to be weird or anything, but if you have another car to use for the time being, I would say that if you never had your injectors cleaned, send them out when you pull the UIM, being that you will probably fix some other hesitations and fuel milage problems that you didn't know were there. cruzin' performance does it for $12/ per injector, which is pretty damn cheap for a full flow test, sonic cleaning, and rebuild of your injectors.

just a thought, but if you don't want to, thats your choice, and I hope you fix your hesitation problem with this little rewire.

 

Thanks man I was thinking about doing this however I never (knock on wood) get flooded even when I start it for just a second and then turn it off. Also my secondary injectors are new 720s so I think I'm ok in that department but I don't know I may just go ahead and do it anyways..............Damn!!!! you had to get me thinking about that didn't you

 

You obviously haven't looked at a map to track me down (which is a good thing )...Coldspring IS in SE Texas, lol...And, you never know, I just might need your help someday, or free beer, or something you got, lol...

The crush washers seal the PD (or banjo bolt) to the fuel rail. Highly recommended you get new ones. The PD install takes 2, different sizes, I don't know about the banjo bolt, though.