Make Your Dream N/A
08-21-02, 07:49 AM
#53
Getting Boosted
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Originally posted by Ichiban
hew can u consider a v8 good sure they gots capacity but who needs a boat anchor in the front of there car
hew can u consider a v8 good sure they gots capacity but who needs a boat anchor in the front of there car
thats a good one. i would have called it a oversized paper weight.
08-21-02, 01:16 PM
#54
Super Newbie
Originally posted by Ichiban
hew can u consider a v8 good sure they gots capacity but who needs a boat anchor in the front of there car
hew can u consider a v8 good sure they gots capacity but who needs a boat anchor in the front of there car
At least with a stroker 302 the car will still handle with some shred of its former self.
08-21-02, 01:37 PM
#55
GTUs w/ 4 port secondary bridgeport
haltech, t2 drivetrain, 4.3 rear end, clutch LSD, custom intake manifold, true dual
17lb flywheel, balanced e-shaft, some new apex seals, higher oil pressure regulator (90psi?), and other **** to get it to rev to 10k
hmm, thats bout it
Or just do the same with a 20b and make some nice power
haltech, t2 drivetrain, 4.3 rear end, clutch LSD, custom intake manifold, true dual
17lb flywheel, balanced e-shaft, some new apex seals, higher oil pressure regulator (90psi?), and other **** to get it to rev to 10k
hmm, thats bout it
Or just do the same with a 20b and make some nice power
Last edited by Node; 08-21-02 at 01:39 PM.
08-21-02, 02:03 PM
#56
Originally posted by Node
GTUs w/ 4 port secondary bridgeport
haltech, t2 drivetrain, 4.3 rear end, clutch LSD, custom intake manifold, true dual
17lb flywheel, balanced e-shaft, some new apex seals, higher oil pressure regulator (90psi?), and other **** to get it to rev to 10k
hmm, thats bout it
GTUs w/ 4 port secondary bridgeport
haltech, t2 drivetrain, 4.3 rear end, clutch LSD, custom intake manifold, true dual
17lb flywheel, balanced e-shaft, some new apex seals, higher oil pressure regulator (90psi?), and other **** to get it to rev to 10k
hmm, thats bout it
Easily a low\mid 13 second car
09-20-02, 04:12 PM
#57
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hurley 3 rotor (not 20b)
huge street port
hurley double spring/ double seals
haltech e11
msd CDI stuff
4.3 rear-end...(kaaz or mazdaspeed LSD)
reinforced stationary gears
rotors modified (fill in the dishes a little bit to boost compression?)
true dual (umm...triple) exhuast
custom intake manifold (mm...bmw variable length runners...yea, sure, it'll fit :P )
t2 drivetrain w/dog gears
carbon fiber driveshaft
TIEN coilovers
sustech sway bars
jic strut braces
full cage (triangulates to front and rear strut towers...maybe wont need those braces after all)
stripped down a bit
fiberglass/CF bodywork and doors
rocket launchers, targeting system
manual steering rack
anything else to run motor at 8500+ rpm
fuel system stuff (pump, injectors...blah blah blah)
huge street port
hurley double spring/ double seals
haltech e11
msd CDI stuff
4.3 rear-end...(kaaz or mazdaspeed LSD)
reinforced stationary gears
rotors modified (fill in the dishes a little bit to boost compression?)
true dual (umm...triple) exhuast
custom intake manifold (mm...bmw variable length runners...yea, sure, it'll fit :P )
t2 drivetrain w/dog gears
carbon fiber driveshaft
TIEN coilovers
sustech sway bars
jic strut braces
full cage (triangulates to front and rear strut towers...maybe wont need those braces after all)
stripped down a bit
fiberglass/CF bodywork and doors
rocket launchers, targeting system
manual steering rack
anything else to run motor at 8500+ rpm
fuel system stuff (pump, injectors...blah blah blah)
09-20-02, 05:51 PM
#58
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A 2 words of advice:
Turbo II
I had the same philosophy you have. A trick NA is the way to go. It is elegantly simple. Well it is not really. The more you mod it, the more peaky the engine gets. The end result is a pure race engine. My car SUCKS for power below 6K and then spikes in hard well past red line. The more mods you have the higher the power moves in the band. When it is all done you have a car only you know how to drive because it does not really idle below 2K.
With a TII you do not have to sacrifice drivability to trick it out.
That said, when you are dicing with 3 rotor turbos in twisties of VIR because you can corner with ANYONE, it’s worth it…
KneeDragonR1
Turbo II
I had the same philosophy you have. A trick NA is the way to go. It is elegantly simple. Well it is not really. The more you mod it, the more peaky the engine gets. The end result is a pure race engine. My car SUCKS for power below 6K and then spikes in hard well past red line. The more mods you have the higher the power moves in the band. When it is all done you have a car only you know how to drive because it does not really idle below 2K.
With a TII you do not have to sacrifice drivability to trick it out.
That said, when you are dicing with 3 rotor turbos in twisties of VIR because you can corner with ANYONE, it’s worth it…
KneeDragonR1
09-20-02, 05:52 PM
#59
I'm bastardizing my car!
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depending how much money you want to spend....
Personaly, i think the stock intake manifold isent that great. id go with a custom fabed manifold. And the people who are saying get a carb, what are you thinking? Go D.F.I., that wolf 3-d system looks good. and your car will run so much better. plus you can adjust timeing/fuel from in the car as you drive.
If all you do is drag race, i pitty you. Go road race once and you will never want to drag again, maybe only to tune your engine. get all the other engine mods everone else said, i dont care much for the NO2 though since its not allowed in my racing series.
for suspension i would go with a single adjustable coil-over with a linear rate spring. Ruffer ride, but linear rate = better handeling. If you know what your doing, get a double adj. shock, but your going to have to know how to tune those to get max performance out of them, YOU REALY HAVE TO KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING! (if you want to know, i got some rescorces that can help.) Theirs a company called Tein that makes a single adj. shock/coil-over that looks pretty good, havent heard much about them though, comes with some pretty stiff springs, get their HA series. That will run you about $1000. Get polyurthane bushings, rear tow eliminaters, camber plate and rear camber link. Get Kuhmo victoracers, or v700's and go to a track. But i would recmend you race on street tires first until you get a feel for the car, cuz its feels so much different on the track.
as for bodywork, if it comes off the car, i would have it made in carbon fiber.
Why would anyone want to put a v-8 in these cars? if i wanted a v-8 i would have gotten somthing from Chevy.
Personaly, i think the stock intake manifold isent that great. id go with a custom fabed manifold. And the people who are saying get a carb, what are you thinking? Go D.F.I., that wolf 3-d system looks good. and your car will run so much better. plus you can adjust timeing/fuel from in the car as you drive.
If all you do is drag race, i pitty you. Go road race once and you will never want to drag again, maybe only to tune your engine. get all the other engine mods everone else said, i dont care much for the NO2 though since its not allowed in my racing series.
for suspension i would go with a single adjustable coil-over with a linear rate spring. Ruffer ride, but linear rate = better handeling. If you know what your doing, get a double adj. shock, but your going to have to know how to tune those to get max performance out of them, YOU REALY HAVE TO KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING! (if you want to know, i got some rescorces that can help.) Theirs a company called Tein that makes a single adj. shock/coil-over that looks pretty good, havent heard much about them though, comes with some pretty stiff springs, get their HA series. That will run you about $1000. Get polyurthane bushings, rear tow eliminaters, camber plate and rear camber link. Get Kuhmo victoracers, or v700's and go to a track. But i would recmend you race on street tires first until you get a feel for the car, cuz its feels so much different on the track.
as for bodywork, if it comes off the car, i would have it made in carbon fiber.
Why would anyone want to put a v-8 in these cars? if i wanted a v-8 i would have gotten somthing from Chevy.
09-20-02, 06:31 PM
#62
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by Dvst8
hmm....how bout putting htat rx-8 engine in there....
hmm....how bout putting htat rx-8 engine in there....
About your sig.... why'd you photochop the pic? Also, the grammar is a little messy... Might wanna try: Rotaries own pistons, no 's'.
Hey, I see you're from Van. Wanna race? $500 to me if I win, and I'll give you $1000 if you beat me.
09-20-02, 06:32 PM
#63
I'm bastardizing my car!
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Originally posted by Dvst8
hmm....how bout putting htat rx-8 engine in there....
hmm....how bout putting htat rx-8 engine in there....
10-04-02, 09:07 PM
#65
I am the Anti-Ch(rice)t
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Originally posted by peejay
rx-7impreza, going back over your list,
nitrous makes it no longer N/A. and why bother with just a 100hp shot, go for broke or go home! at least a 250, preferably a 300/750 dual stage setup.
and why ruin a perfectly good gsl-se chassis? start with a '81-83, the rear end geometry is more amenable to drag racing than the revised setup in '84-up cars. but then you'd be pretty much making your own full tube frame chassi no matter what, so that doesn't matter... why even start with a car? just make the tube frame and then rivet on whatever body skin you happen to like in the junkyard. make it an FB one week, and FC the next, a Mustang the one after that just for ***** and giggles...
rx-7impreza, going back over your list,
nitrous makes it no longer N/A. and why bother with just a 100hp shot, go for broke or go home! at least a 250, preferably a 300/750 dual stage setup.and why ruin a perfectly good gsl-se chassis? start with a '81-83, the rear end geometry is more amenable to drag racing than the revised setup in '84-up cars. but then you'd be pretty much making your own full tube frame chassi no matter what, so that doesn't matter... why even start with a car? just make the tube frame and then rivet on whatever body skin you happen to like in the junkyard. make it an FB one week, and FC the next, a Mustang the one after that just for ***** and giggles...
yeah i was actaully thinking about a 400 shot on that. but supposing that might net around 1000hp i know that any stock 7 chassis would twist itself in two.
i was thinking of a complete tube frame...... fun fun
Justin
10-05-02, 01:08 AM
#67
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Originally posted by Silkworm
Screw it, just put the money into a cage and decent suspension and go racing
LOL..
PaulC
Screw it, just put the money into a cage and decent suspension and go racing
LOL..
PaulC
dude that is so cool.
i want to do that. exept with a turbo car.
do you have a website with pictures or anything?
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