Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Ok, here's my problem. I have a 1986 Mazda Rx-7 GXL... Just last year i had my brakes re-done.. When i say Re-done i mean, 4 new Calipers 4 new Brake rotors, new brake lines, Ect.. ect..

NOW, this is only everyonce in a while.. not all the time, i find that my Drivers Side Rear brake is sticking.. it's holding itself onto the rotor... and it is heating my brake's up.. it's also causing the car to pull to one side. Like i said, this is intermittent (sp?)

What could be causing my rear caliper to stick/grab??

Any help would be great...

And also, is it bad to drive like this. I noticed the Rotor is making a strange smell. And i spit... yes i spit on my rotor and it sizzles it's so hot.

THanks again guys

-Markus

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Bump... please i'm not sure if this is bad for the car/dangerous to drive..

what could cause my NEW calipers to be locking up? I am at a loss for idea's..

Thanks again
-Markus

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

are you sure they were NEW? maybe you got re-built ones and they are messing up????

Improper bleeding maybe?

Santiago

afro thunder

when you stop, all of the enrgy going forward is converted into heat, so its no wonder your brakes are hot. if you watch Sebring or any road racinmg at night, you see the rotors grow red hot, like its going to melt.

SaabGuy

grease the slider and then bleed that caliper. Should take all of 20 minutes.

Also check for ebrake binding.

It could be dangerous. I had one rear pad stick while on the dyno. 30 minutes later is was smoking sooo bad. almost caught fire. Guess its a lot harder to do that on the street since going 140mph on the dyno doesnt flow much air around the brake pads.

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

sliders might be lacking in lubrication

my cavalier had a similar problem, turned out the fuckstick i got to do the brakes on it (never take it to a drive-thru style auto shop) he didnt lube the sliders.. or he did but not well enough

took me about 40 minutes to get the working properly again.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Check emergency brake adjustment. Lever on caliper must return to stop on caliper, or very close to it when e brake off. If it does , probably bad caliper. When you say intermittent, it could be riding on the rotor, but you possibly don't realize it until it gets very hot and expands, causing the drag. Pull caliper off and see if piston turns in easily. If not, as I said, bad caliper. No sliders on rear calipers.

SaabGuy

Carlos I beg to differ about lack of sliders in the rear.

I just rebuilt all my calipers and there were sliders back there. Lubed those suckers up.

Rear calipers are only single piston type which means one side needs to float while the other side is a piston.

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

yes... about 1 year ago, i had my brakes done at Just brakes. they are a local brake shop.. 1100$ later, i am at this point.

they wanted to charge me 600$ the other day when i went in there to check it out. assuming all this was under warrenty.. i said no, i think i'll do it my self. Could the Master Cylinder be causing one of the Sliders to stick? it just doesnt seem possible..

I dunno, thanks for the input though guys, i will check it out ... so basiccally just grease up the slider right?

again, thanks. I'll keep you guys posted

-Markus

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Gotta elaborate. The rear calipers are of a slider variety as all are. They are not the same as open GM sliders where the disc pads ride on the bracket and are more prone to exhibit resistance. They are enclosed, but just the same need to be lubricated. I have not seen any rear calipers on RX7's hang up a/c a slider problem. Of course I've only worked on @ 10 7's with rear calipers. Most all the problems I've experienced is same as front....Stuck/tight pistons. I have one set, I can't get the pistons out, even with a Mac tool.

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Yeah the problem is definatly intermittant (sp?)

Like today it has not done it at all. but yesterday all day as i was driving it did it (caliper sticking/locking up)

The guy at just brakes (******* rip off) told me that my master cylinder is bad... which somehow is causing only one of my calipers to stick.. highly doubtful.. he wanted to charge me 500$ i said no, and walked away...

I will take the tire off and take a look at the caliper.. lube all the mechanism's (sp?) up and see if it goes away... i guess i could re-bleed the system..'

could air in the system cause the caliper to not come back to open posistion??

thanks guys

-Markus

ViperKillerWannabe

My capri did this. It turned out to be the parking brake cable was bad and getting stuck. You might look into this.

rx7raca

i had this problem on another car of mine (a GM) and for some reason it would only stick/grab when it was hot out and melt the pads. o ya by the way its not the rotors smelling its the pads, i hate that smell,makes me sick off my ***, but anyways it turned out to be the brake lines where fucked up!!

so check all ur connections and lines and other **** that controls the braking system. most of the time its not the capilers. check everything or replace the lines and get back to us.

AsianFlip06

I just had this problem with my car but it was on the passenger side. Id say since its intermittant your driver side parking brake line is sticking every once in a while. Id try and disconnect the line by looseing the first nut you see on the ebrake line that connects onto the caliper and slide it off and try driving around for couple days to see if thas the problem. If thats not it then your piston in the caliper is gettin stuck. Hope this helps yah.

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

well, on the way to my fathers today... (had my jack and tools with me)

i was gunna try to figure out what was wrong with my car.

I ended up pulling into a church parking lot and pulling the tire off
after about 30 min of driving the rotor/pad started to smoke from so much heat.. i dont know WTF

SO i pulled caliper off, after it cooled down, and sprayed some PB blaster into the piston area.. i also checked the E-brake cable, it didnt look like it was making it bind at all. i really dont know WTF it could be

here's my story, about a year ago, i took my car to just brakes (drive in brake service) OMG ever since it's been hell, i've been back 5 times due to brake problems, and this time they wont even take my tire off to check it out. (different manager everytime i go)

So they wont check my car out, even though i have all the paper work and everything saying there's a 50k warrenty on all brake parts.

back then i didnt know anything about cars, and i needed brakes so i took it there. PLease guys, never take your car's there..

So my plan is to take it to my mechanic (scott, Mazsport) i am going to have him put a standard brake set on. should be around 600-700$
I paid 1170$ for my previous brake job my just brakes, please guys like i said dont go there. I am going to take the bill for my new brakes to just brakes. if they dont honor it, i am going to take them to court...
Dont worry, i'll have witnesse's and everything.. it's to the point i just wanna have them shut down. what do you guys think??

thanks alot

-markus

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Bump...

joelu

i kinda just skimmed over the other posts but if it aint the parking brake cable or the sliders it could only really be the piston. what i would do is remove the caliper and see if you can push the piston back in with your hands. if it is hard take some waterpump pliers and try to sqeeze it back in. if you feel it break free the piston was seizing in the bore. check the boot for tears or rips. and while you at it grease the sliders.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Rear pistons turn in. As stated before, remove caliper and try to turn the piston into the caliper. You can use needle nosed pliers, but an inexpensive tool sold a Pep Boys, etc. is much better. If it doesn't turn in easily, or becomes exceptionally hard, undo bleeder and try again. If a brake line goes bad (internally) it will not allow the fluid to flow back, and therefore "locks" the pads against the rotor. If bleeder out, and piston still will not move in, replace bad caliper.

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

well, i took the caliper off, cleaned and inspected it, the piston will turn in and out... Like i said the problem is only Intermittent (sp?)

So i lubed up all the parts.. PB is all i had, it's kinda like a real good WD-40... anyway lubed everything up, reinstalled the caliper, and this morning on the drive to work (30 min long), it did not lockup/grab at all

Is it possible that air in the brake line will cause the piston not to return?

Well, all in all, i am still going to get my brakes Re-done at Mazsport in Largo, FL... for a price, and than bring JUST BRAKES my bill. i'm sure they will laugh in my face, but not when they see my lawyer with me...

They said and i quote " sure the brakes come with a warrenty, but your car is too old to honor it... the brakes ware out faster on your car, than on other cars, so we cannot replace your brakes" we did get a price on the master cylinder you need though... $400 + Tax we can have it installed...

Total *********. never go to JUST BRAKES

-Markus

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

See what the warranty states. Length of time, parts, labor, materials,etc. You must give them a chance to correct the situation before you bring legal action against them. Get it in writing they will not honor warranty...If there actually is one at this time.
If it's not the piston binding in the caliper, and it's not the e brake adjustment....There's only 1 item remaining -Flexable brake hose. No air in line will not cause pads to lock onto the rotor.