sa22c[est. 1979]

iTrader: (2)

Got the car to fire up, drove it around the block, and then BAM! Nothing. Parked it back at my house, and started going through everything again. First thing I checked was the cabing EGI fuse, that checked out, then I checked the one in the bay. That one was good also. I'm getting on spark, and one spark only on every plug/wire/coil, and not a drop a gas. Would a bad main relay cause this? I'm not by the car ATM, so I'm lloking to gather a list of things that couldn've possibly caused this. All my grounds, AFM, every other no start problem has been checked but the relay. I'm getting fuel at the rail also, any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Oh BTW car is an s4 vert.

satch

iTrader: (1)

First off, how did you allow this to happen? Seriously though, with the key to on there should be voltage on the B/Y at each of the coils and any of the B/W wires connected to the emission solenoids would have battery voltage as well w/key to on if the main relay was working properly. Secondly, you state "I'm getting on spark, and one spark only on every plug/wire/coil, and not a drop a gas.," but then state you're getting fuel at the rail. Not sure what this means. I think I mentioned in an earlier post regarding your problem about how to check the G/Y wire at the leading coil. If not, I'll post the info for you.
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If this produces the same result then check the CAS as to spec and see if it ohms out properly. If the CAS checks out properly then pull the white plug off of the leading coil and check the Green/Yellow wire as follows. Measure the voltage on this wire with the key to on as you crank the engine by hand by using the main pulley. As this is done the voltage should go from o volts to 5 volts very suddenly and then back to o volts. Most of the turning of the pulley will lead to a 0 volt reading and then flash 5 volts briefly as it then returns back to 0 volts.

Also make sure your grounds are up to spec as the main ground is on top of the engine conspicuously hidden under the manifold as well as checking the grounds at the ECU. The FSM indicates which pins these are( pin 2R,3A,2C and 3G) and the link to the FSM is in the FAQ at the top of these threads (second FAQ thread listed).

You can check the ohm output of the CAS at the ECU. You would remove the largest plug (far left) and w/multimeter set to ohms, place one lead on pin 1N and the other lead on pin 1P and then do the same for pins 1T and 1Q. Both should fall between the ranges of 110 to 210 ohms. This to be done with "NO" key in the ignition!

pin 1N=Green wire color
1P=Blue wire
1T=Red wire
1Q=White wire color

sa22c[est. 1979]

iTrader: (2)

Meaning, I'm getting fuel at the injectors, but the plugs are bone dry. All I'm trying to figure out is if this could be one of the problems, the care ran fine for about 5 minutes, and then nothing. I searched, and I found that the Main relay powers all of the EFI system, so Basically I was asking if the symptons described would lead to the relay.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Checking the things I listed should get you on the right track. The CAS tells the ECU when to provide for spark and firing the fuel injectors so it should be one of the items to look at.

sa22c[est. 1979]

iTrader: (2)

Also, with what I've searched by CAS, the tach shouldn't move in the slightest bit when cranking, my tach jumps a little on initial start-up, which means the ECU is getting signal from the CAS, correct?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The tach gets its signal from the trailing coil. If the tach bumps then that means that coil is trying to fire but it's a bit more involved than that. One bump is a positive indication but in your situation that is all you're getting. So you still need to validate that all components necessary to start the car are up to spec. So yes, there is some interaction between the CAS and ECU going on in your car. Also, if your engine bay had been painted recently it might prevent the ground that needs to exist between the igniters and the body from being a solid one.