Low oil pressure Problem
#1
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From: Northern IN
Low oil pressure Problem
What causes low oil pressure reading on the gauge? Meaning 25-30 at idle and 30-35 anything over idle...
Engine is an 87 T2 Just rebuilt and has new oil pump and new 100 PSI regulators Front and Rear...
Keith
Engine is an 87 T2 Just rebuilt and has new oil pump and new 100 PSI regulators Front and Rear...
Keith
#2
What kind of oil pressure did you see prior to the rebuild? The oil pressure senders can be pretty sketchy. If not the sender, and the pressure really is low, then the front cover o-ring and front e-shaft bolt/pellet come to mind. Did you install an aftermarket pellet or shim the stock thermo pellet?
#3
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From: Northern IN
I used a thermo pellet from atkins and I double checked that the o ring and plastice washer was there when I put it together... I even put a little high temp rtv on it when I was putting front cover on to ensure it would stay put.
#4
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From: Northern IN
Well I built the engine a month ago and had to tear it apart because it blew to side seals because rotor contacted center iron due to oil starvation. This is why I put the new oil pump in and pressure regulators in. Before it was the same. So I just got it back together today.
Although when I first started it today I was holding it at 2k and the gauge read about 50 psi then when I took it for the first cruise I noticed the low oil pressure again...
What gives??
Although when I first started it today I was holding it at 2k and the gauge read about 50 psi then when I took it for the first cruise I noticed the low oil pressure again...
What gives??
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#8
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From: Northern IN
Actually that is what I thought when I took it apart after the side seal failure but when I pulled the front cover the o ring and plastic washer was still stuck right where it should be...
I am hoping all it is is the cluster or wiring... Cause I cannot afford to tear this thing apart again....
I am hoping all it is is the cluster or wiring... Cause I cannot afford to tear this thing apart again....
#9
the o ring and plastice washer
What year are your irons? They would probably have to be really late model 88's or possibly s5's to need the white spacer ring. If you put the white spacer on there with earlier castings, you could have problems. Most old 87 irons should have just the front cover o-ring with no white spacer, and either RTV or a gasket for earlier castings which I have personally never seen. Have you read this writeup about the front cover? http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm
if your front cover o-ring looks like this:
you fucked up.
If using the white spacer, it should look like this: with a wider area to support the white ring.
#10
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From: Northern IN
describe your exact setup for the front cover o-ring. On my old 88 front iron I had just the o-ring with no spacer and the front cover was sealed with RTV. There was no room for a white spacer ring. On my current build I switched to S5 irons. Those had a larger o-ring area and I used the white spacer with the o-ring, and an OEM front cover gasket they are selling for the later model 13B.
What year are your irons? They would probably have to be really late model 88's or possibly s5's to need the white spacer ring. If you put the white spacer on there with earlier castings, you could have problems. Most old 87 irons should have just the front cover o-ring with no white spacer, and either RTV or a gasket for earlier castings which I have personally never seen. Have you read this writeup about the front cover? http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm
if your front cover o-ring looks like this:
you fucked up.
If using the white spacer, it should look like this: with a wider area to support the white ring.
What year are your irons? They would probably have to be really late model 88's or possibly s5's to need the white spacer ring. If you put the white spacer on there with earlier castings, you could have problems. Most old 87 irons should have just the front cover o-ring with no white spacer, and either RTV or a gasket for earlier castings which I have personally never seen. Have you read this writeup about the front cover? http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm
if your front cover o-ring looks like this:
you fucked up.
If using the white spacer, it should look like this: with a wider area to support the white ring.
But if the pressure shows low on a mechanical gauge then that is the first thing I will be checking... Thanks for all the advice.
Keith
#13
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From: Northern IN
Does anyone think that the gasket could have held the front cover out too much not allowing the o-ring to seal like it should. I started it today and the oil pressure was 50 at 2k and after the engine warmed up it dropped back down to the 30-40 I have been having.
#14
I also replaced the check valve right at the pulley (bypass thermal pellet) while I was there. There is another check valve at the oil cooler and also the oil pressure regulator.
#16
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#17
Hondabond is gray RTV essentially
I'm not sure what to say, I just put a motor together with your exact front cover setup (gasket, spacer, o-ring) and didn't have any problems. One thing I did though was put a little (don't overdo it) Crisco in the groove to make sure the o-ring and spacer don't shift at all. Also make sure everything is very clean.
Can any other common problem cause low oil pressure?
I'm not sure what to say, I just put a motor together with your exact front cover setup (gasket, spacer, o-ring) and didn't have any problems. One thing I did though was put a little (don't overdo it) Crisco in the groove to make sure the o-ring and spacer don't shift at all. Also make sure everything is very clean.
Can any other common problem cause low oil pressure?
#18
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From: Northern IN
Well I put it all back together and I am 100% sure that o ring is good. No gasket on the cover so it should be smashed down tight. Oil pressure is still around 30 psi...
Now I am down to thinking maybe it is the oil cooler and or lines... since oil flows through there before it gets to the back of the engine to the pressure sender...
Anyone else think this could be correct?
Now I am down to thinking maybe it is the oil cooler and or lines... since oil flows through there before it gets to the back of the engine to the pressure sender...
Anyone else think this could be correct?
#19
EDIT: Reading again I noticed you replaced most checkvalves except the oil cooler. Might as well test it cause something caused your old motor to starve of oil.
Have you tried 20w 50?
Last edited by freemanrx7; 07-01-09 at 03:13 PM.
#20
Engine, Not Motor
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Weird...Did you forget the gasket on the oil pickup?
Sorry to make you take apart the front cover for no reason.
You could temporarily bypass the oil cooler but the truth is that I doubt that is the issue. The oil cooler has a thermostat that keeps it open when cold so it is essentially bypassed during those times.
Sorry to make you take apart the front cover for no reason.
You could temporarily bypass the oil cooler but the truth is that I doubt that is the issue. The oil cooler has a thermostat that keeps it open when cold so it is essentially bypassed during those times.
#23
if it is an s4 motor, you need not to put on that white washer. that is only for the s5 engines. go just use a black o-ring that fits in the indentation of the housing snug. make sure that it does not fall out b/c then you wont have any pressure. i had this same problem before. trust me, you will be reading about 60 psi at idle with that o-ring replaced.