Ocelot

Ok so basically my mod list is in my sig. The car was driving fine and all stuff up to 3k rpms which I would keep it at without boosting since it wasn't tuned yet. Then I go to get it tuned and the tuner runs into a **** storm of problems. Basically it wouldn't make any power past like 5k rpms and he came to the conclusion that at the end one of the 720cc secondaries was leaking. So basically I had a tune that would let me drive it to some extent up to around 5k where it would start getting shitty. I was ok with that since it was only one injector to be replaced.

So the next day I need to get back to school and I drive the car, giving it more boost than my usual 0lbs driving, and it does as expected, fine down low then sputters around 5k so I don't bring it up that high. My trip is 8 hours, so i'm going along fine, when at a toll both I come to a stop and my car stalls. From this point on I no longer can hold an idle, and I have to keep it around 2k so it doesn't stall out. It's not even like before when I had to do this because of a vac leak because I could hold it at like 1500rpms, now, even with giving it a steady amount of throttle, it tries to die unless I rev it and try to keep it holding up.

Coming out of the toll I give it some decent boost, but keep it below 5k rpms. Then like 5 minutes later, my check engine light comes on. I pull over and check under the hood and nothing seems wrong visually, and the car ran fine except for the idle thing, so I continue the trip. The light stays on and suddenly like a half hour later my engine feels real sputtery, I got some shaking, not too intense, but it was noticable, and it was happening even below 2800rpms where I thought the secondaries werent even an issue. There isn't really anywhere to pull over, and if the car died I would be fucked because of how far away from school I was. After like 10 minutes of shitty shaking and unsteady acceleration and all, the car slowly moves back to working fine. The CEL was still on, but at a rest stop I stopped the car and when I turned it back on the light went off.

So later on in the trip the light comes back on, with no shaking, so I just keep driving. Then the CEL turns off in the middle of driving, nothing gets any better or worse.

So today I go out to start up the car, and I get blue smoke during the warmup. This was the first VERY cold start the car got in a while, but its seen other cold starts before it went to get tuned without any blue smoke. I know blue means oil, but I don't know from where. After it warmed up there was no more smoke, but i've never had the smoke problem before I got the CEL, like the morning leaving for school it was freezing and I didn't get that during startup at all, but now it was very noticable. So after it warms up and all, the idle still won't hold, and I drive around a bit to notice shitty acceleration with it not being really smooth at all. Even at low rpms where I thought the secondaries wouldn't be an issue its pretty shitty.

So anyone have any ideas? I can't check the CEL yet because its like 0 degrees out here literally and its a long walk to the parking lot from my dorm. I'll check it when its not so cold sometime, but any ideas before that?

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

1st thing I would do after checking the codes would be a compression check.

Ocelot

Figured that would be coming, lol

Had good compression before this and somewhat recent rebuild by the previous owner, but hopefully the worst case scenario wont happen.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Check for huge *** vac leaks, TID popping off, etc..

Ocelot

I took a look around for vac leaks although I already glanced over the major stuff.

Ocelot

Anyone else have some suggestions before I go check the ECU codes? Its a long walk in the freezing cold so i'd rather have a few ideas under my belt before going to troubleshoot in this weather.

RETed

Pull the ECU codes
Why make wild-*** guesses when the ECU has the definite answer?


-Ted

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Can only echo the above. Check for broken hoses, cracked or disconnected, loose tid clamps etc. Then check the ecu code.

Ocelot

11 - Intake Air Thermosensor (engine) [Intake Air Temp Fixed at 20C]
13 - Pressure Sensor (Fixed at 760mmHg)
15 - O2 Sensor
18 - Throttle Sensor (Narrow Range) [Signal Fixed at Full Open]

Those are the ones i've got. Now the O2 sensor I think is just the wiring not fully done with my A/F gauge, so that can be easily fixed, and the pressure sensor was getting 760mmHg when my FCD was broken and I got a new one so now its reading, but the other two I have NO idea how they happened or how they can be fixed. Anyone have any ideas on fixing either of those? I wouldn't know where to start, any fuses they might be under for starters?

Ocelot

Also it smells like gas under my hood, i'm guessing thats due to the leaking injectors but would it make it actually smell under there?

RETed

One, disconnect NEGATIVE battery cable for 30 seconds.
Reconnect.
Drive around.
Check error codes - are they the same?

Ignore the O2 code for now - it only affects low-load highway cruising.
Your other ones are pretty major...


-Ted

Ocelot

Would I get a CEL for all of those? I got a CEL before but it turned off and on and hasn't come back on since, so if I do that will they come back as codes even if the CEL doesn't come back on?

RETed

That's the question...
Reseting the power will clear all codes from the ECU.
Those codes are stored sequentially - so you could've tripped them by messing with any of the components prior to the last time the power was reset.
The codes are stored until you reset the power.
By resetting the power, you start off clean.
If the codes come back, then you know for sure it is a problem.


-Ted

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

the water thermo sensor will cause major hessitation up in the higher rpm so you may want to check if it came disconnected. It's the green plug in back off the waterpump housing. The tps could be bad as well causing huge hessitations however it could just need to be addjusted as well.

Ocelot

So if its something thats iffy and not causing problems all the time the CEL isn't going to come on and I won't even know for sure? Like a week before I came down to school I installed my new clutch, so the battery was disconnected then, and the only CEL's i've ever seen were on the way back to school and NEVER any other time. Which order will they go in? First stored to last? I know the pressure sensor was doing that a bit ago, but the first one and the last one seem a bit odd to be there. What could be causing them if not a short, and what symptoms would the car have if they were screwed up? I'm trying to see if they are related or not, but i'll still clear them and try and drive it.

RETed

I think it's first code stored first, but I could be wrong.
Sequence really doesn't matter, as important codes should all be investigated.

Codes can be thrown by broken wire, unplugged sensor, or bad sensor.



-Ted