Lots of brake questions and my rotor screw is stripped!
12-14-02, 01:18 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lots of brake questions and my rotor screw is stripped!
Hi,
I started my brake project today. Jeez, this car is so much more complicated than my 240sx! Anyway, I have a bunch of questions. I did some searches but only came up with vague answers to my questions. First off, one of the screws on one of my rotors is stripped. The other ones were a bitch to come off, but I got them with my air gun. Do I need to reinstall them? Anyway, to remove the one that is stripped, my dad thought I could drill down a bit and try to get something to catch the screw or use a reverse thread self tapping screw. I just want to get it out, anyone have a similar problem? Also, can I bleed two brakes at a time? What I mean by this is I only have the front of the car jacked up, and I read you are supposed to do them all at once. I will do the rears later though. I have new rotors for the front and pads all around. Does anyone have a procedural write up for this? This car seems a bit more complicated compared to the others I have done. I've never bled brakes before, so if someone can help me out with that too, I'd be thankful. Also, has anyone done anything to help with brake cooling by expanding off of the stock system/duct? That was just an idea that popped into my head. The rotors are huge and this is the first time I've done anything more than one piston calipers! This thing must stop on a dime when it's in good condition! If anyone can help me out with these questions, that'd be great. Thanks for the read. Todd
I started my brake project today. Jeez, this car is so much more complicated than my 240sx! Anyway, I have a bunch of questions. I did some searches but only came up with vague answers to my questions. First off, one of the screws on one of my rotors is stripped. The other ones were a bitch to come off, but I got them with my air gun. Do I need to reinstall them? Anyway, to remove the one that is stripped, my dad thought I could drill down a bit and try to get something to catch the screw or use a reverse thread self tapping screw. I just want to get it out, anyone have a similar problem? Also, can I bleed two brakes at a time? What I mean by this is I only have the front of the car jacked up, and I read you are supposed to do them all at once. I will do the rears later though. I have new rotors for the front and pads all around. Does anyone have a procedural write up for this? This car seems a bit more complicated compared to the others I have done. I've never bled brakes before, so if someone can help me out with that too, I'd be thankful. Also, has anyone done anything to help with brake cooling by expanding off of the stock system/duct? That was just an idea that popped into my head. The rotors are huge and this is the first time I've done anything more than one piston calipers! This thing must stop on a dime when it's in good condition! If anyone can help me out with these questions, that'd be great. Thanks for the read. Todd
12-14-02, 01:55 PM
#3
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
I'm sure I'll catch hell for this.......I just in the last hour finished putting new rear bearings on the 86RX. I could only get one of the screws out(two each side). I drilled the other three out. When I reinstalled the two brake rotors I did not put any of the screws that hold the disk in place (forgot to go buy some). Those screws, if we're talking about the two screws that temporarily hold the disk on, do just that, hold the disk on temp till you get the brake and wheel assy on.
I had Automobile Machine in Ft Worth actually press the bearings in the hub assy and remove the remnants of the three screws (two each rotor assy).
Drill the sucker out Not required for flight. Now for the hell I'll catch.
I had Automobile Machine in Ft Worth actually press the bearings in the hub assy and remove the remnants of the three screws (two each rotor assy).
Drill the sucker out Not required for flight. Now for the hell I'll catch.
12-14-02, 01:58 PM
#4
Just Messing About
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Just West of Atlanta
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First:
Craftsman has some new nifty solutions for getting out stripped screws and bolts, check out their site or a Sears store. I've not used them but it seemed like a good idea. Also you can find "easy-outs" anywhare they sell tools.
Second:
Go to the FSM online (fc3s.org ?) and look up the service manual for your car. There's a whole section devoted to the brakes and how to bleed them.
Cory
Craftsman has some new nifty solutions for getting out stripped screws and bolts, check out their site or a Sears store. I've not used them but it seemed like a good idea. Also you can find "easy-outs" anywhare they sell tools.
Second:
Go to the FSM online (fc3s.org ?) and look up the service manual for your car. There's a whole section devoted to the brakes and how to bleed them.
Cory
12-14-02, 02:45 PM
#5
Asset is Wealth
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Cali
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you strip the head of the screw, just drill them out. Make sure that the diameter of the drill bit is not larger then the top of the shank hits the head of the screw. Once the head is gone, the the rotor should drop. Once the rotor is off, you can just remove the remaining part of the shank with your fingers.
Good luck.
Good luck.
12-14-02, 06:39 PM
#6
Like the other guys said just drill the head off the screw and say "screw it". Eheheheh ...man I'm terrible.
Anyway, stripping the head out of those is easy. Best to use an impact driver (not an impact wrench BTW). I asked Mazdatrix if they had any one time and they said, "No. The wheel does a pretty good job of holding the rotor on."
As for bleeding, do yourself a favor and jack up the rear and do all four corners. It won't take very much longer and you'll get optimum results. I guarantee you there is air in the rears and even if you bleed the fronts you'll have a spongy pedal. You'll only need to jack up one corner at a time so no extra jacks or stands are required. Here's how to do it without any special tools:
Start at the passenger side rear. You always want to start at the port furthest from the master cylinder and work progressively closer. Get a length of clear tubing that fits snugly on to the bleed screw port and is long enough to run into the bottom a clear Coke bottle. Home Depot carries it. Fill the Coke bottle about 1/3 of the way with brake fluid. If you want to get fancy you can drill a hole in the Coke bottle and run a wire through it to hang it on something. I just hold mine. You'll need on person in the car and you'll need to be at the wheel you're working on. Put the box end of the wrench on the bleed screw (don't use the open end, the heads are very easy to round off!) and then fit the clear tubing down onto the port. The other end goes into the Coke bottle. Make sure the end is submerged in the brake fluid in the bottle. Crack the bleed crew about a 1/4 turn. Have the person in the car slowly press the pedal to the floor and hold it. While they're holding it down tighten the screw. After, and only after, you've tightened the screw they can let the pedal come back up. When they depress the pedal a mixture of brake fluid and air bubbles will appear in the tube and air will bubble up in the Coke bottle. This is normal at first. Repeat the opening screw, depressing pedal, closing screw process until you see nothing but clean fluid and NO AIR coming out of each port. Remember NO AIR! This may take a long bit of pumping but if the system is in good order you'll eventually get good clean fluid and no air. It is VERY IMPORTANT to watch the level of the fluid in the resevoir at the master cylinder. Each time you pump fluid out of a bleed port the level of the fluid in the resevoir is going down by that much. DO NOT ALLOW THE RESEVOIR TO GO DRY AND SUCK AIR!. If you do you'll need to bench bleed the master cylinder and start all over. Also, do not allow your helper to let the pedal come up off the floor before you close the bleed screw. If that happens it is not nearly as big a deal as letting the master cylinder go dry but you'll just need to pump extra air out of the caliper. Start at the PR corner, then do the DR, then the PF, and finally the DF. You'll need a bottle of your favorite brake fluid.
Extra brake cooling for a stock application is unneccesary.
Chris
Anyway, stripping the head out of those is easy. Best to use an impact driver (not an impact wrench BTW). I asked Mazdatrix if they had any one time and they said, "No. The wheel does a pretty good job of holding the rotor on."
As for bleeding, do yourself a favor and jack up the rear and do all four corners. It won't take very much longer and you'll get optimum results. I guarantee you there is air in the rears and even if you bleed the fronts you'll have a spongy pedal. You'll only need to jack up one corner at a time so no extra jacks or stands are required. Here's how to do it without any special tools:
Start at the passenger side rear. You always want to start at the port furthest from the master cylinder and work progressively closer. Get a length of clear tubing that fits snugly on to the bleed screw port and is long enough to run into the bottom a clear Coke bottle. Home Depot carries it. Fill the Coke bottle about 1/3 of the way with brake fluid. If you want to get fancy you can drill a hole in the Coke bottle and run a wire through it to hang it on something. I just hold mine. You'll need on person in the car and you'll need to be at the wheel you're working on. Put the box end of the wrench on the bleed screw (don't use the open end, the heads are very easy to round off!) and then fit the clear tubing down onto the port. The other end goes into the Coke bottle. Make sure the end is submerged in the brake fluid in the bottle. Crack the bleed crew about a 1/4 turn. Have the person in the car slowly press the pedal to the floor and hold it. While they're holding it down tighten the screw. After, and only after, you've tightened the screw they can let the pedal come back up. When they depress the pedal a mixture of brake fluid and air bubbles will appear in the tube and air will bubble up in the Coke bottle. This is normal at first. Repeat the opening screw, depressing pedal, closing screw process until you see nothing but clean fluid and NO AIR coming out of each port. Remember NO AIR! This may take a long bit of pumping but if the system is in good order you'll eventually get good clean fluid and no air. It is VERY IMPORTANT to watch the level of the fluid in the resevoir at the master cylinder. Each time you pump fluid out of a bleed port the level of the fluid in the resevoir is going down by that much. DO NOT ALLOW THE RESEVOIR TO GO DRY AND SUCK AIR!. If you do you'll need to bench bleed the master cylinder and start all over. Also, do not allow your helper to let the pedal come up off the floor before you close the bleed screw. If that happens it is not nearly as big a deal as letting the master cylinder go dry but you'll just need to pump extra air out of the caliper. Start at the PR corner, then do the DR, then the PF, and finally the DF. You'll need a bottle of your favorite brake fluid.
Extra brake cooling for a stock application is unneccesary.
Chris
12-14-02, 08:44 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all the suggestions. Forgot to add - on the side that I removed the two rotor screws from, the rotor ain't budging. I'm assuming it's seized - should I just hack away at it with a hammer till it comes loose, or are there any tricks? Todd
Trending Topics
12-14-02, 08:58 PM
#8
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
BEst to NOT hit the surface with a hammer. Put a piece of wood b/t the rotor and the hammer. I had to use a pry bar myself. If both screws are out or the heads drilled off, it should come off. May have to beat a little bit and pry at the same time. You sound like you have enough sense not to hit the rotor directly with the hammer. Something needs to be put b/t the hammer and rotor. Hit the wood.
12-15-02, 09:59 AM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by HAILERS
BEst to NOT hit the surface with a hammer. Put a piece of wood b/t the rotor and the hammer. I had to use a pry bar myself. If both screws are out or the heads drilled off, it should come off. May have to beat a little bit and pry at the same time. You sound like you have enough sense not to hit the rotor directly with the hammer. Something needs to be put b/t the hammer and rotor. Hit the wood.
BEst to NOT hit the surface with a hammer. Put a piece of wood b/t the rotor and the hammer. I had to use a pry bar myself. If both screws are out or the heads drilled off, it should come off. May have to beat a little bit and pry at the same time. You sound like you have enough sense not to hit the rotor directly with the hammer. Something needs to be put b/t the hammer and rotor. Hit the wood.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
Frisky Arab
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
13
08-18-15 05:30 PM
