Loose engine mount nut
06-16-10, 10:24 PM
#1
Loose engine mount nut
I'm getting my engine prepped to pull for my rebuild. I got to the engine mounts and found that my driver side nut on the top was just about finger loose. The passenger side was nice and snug.
I'm just wondering what the long term consequences of a loose mount are. I had pretty bad engine vibration and had thought it was all due to poor idle and compression. I have no idea how long the mount was loose for. What I did find was that I had no washer under the driver side nut. I'm betting 3+yrs ago the shop that did my swap for me didn't put the washer on and the nut progressively backed off.
I'm just wondering what the long term consequences of a loose mount are. I had pretty bad engine vibration and had thought it was all due to poor idle and compression. I have no idea how long the mount was loose for. What I did find was that I had no washer under the driver side nut. I'm betting 3+yrs ago the shop that did my swap for me didn't put the washer on and the nut progressively backed off.
06-17-10, 12:24 AM
#2
I just replaced my engine mounts a few weeks ago, and the exact same nut was just finger tight. Either I forgot to tighten it back in '08 (when the engine went in), or my broken passenger-side mount made it vibrate loose. If yours was finger tight as well, there's really very little room for the engine to move. You're talking about maybe a millimeter of extra play, so I wouldn't expect there to be any consequences. You can check over your transmission and diff mounts if you're worried.
06-17-10, 12:36 AM
#3
Thanks for the feedback. I'm betting my tranny mounts are gonna be good. They were replaced bout 4 years ago while the car was still N/A. Hmmm... do the N/A and turbo tranny use the same mounts? I'll check mazdatrix real quick.
06-17-10, 12:37 AM
#4
When you throw them back in, red locktite is your friend. I have a bottle of red + blue in my tool box. I try to use either of them on everything that I do. Except exhaust bolts. They're all rusted + won't come lose anyways. Plus the heat will burn it off.
06-17-10, 12:45 AM
#6
yeah was just on there...iirc it was the center bushing that went bad..but I had them replace all of the tranny bushings. But it was 4 years ago and I had not yet caught the bug of DIY car hobbies so I probably just nodded and threw money at the problem.
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06-17-10, 01:04 AM
#8
Completely off topic, but the thread migrated that direction. I'm pulling the engine and transmission together. While spraying the transmission crossmember bolts wit PB Blaster I couldn't help but notice my driveshaft enters the transmission and it's all covered by heatshielding and exhaust. Should I plan on lowering my exhaust and removing that heatshielding for removal? I've drained the fluid from the transmission, but how much more is going to spill out after the driveshaft comes out?
I was planning on leaving the driveshaft and exhaust hanging till reinstalling the engine. Is that still a realistic expectation?
I was planning on leaving the driveshaft and exhaust hanging till reinstalling the engine. Is that still a realistic expectation?
06-17-10, 01:22 AM
#9
Uhhmm... I can't give you an exact answer on that. I have all my heat shield pulled off. I would say you're probably going to have to pull at least some of it. I had to remove my exhaust at the Y pipe so that I had a good amount of room. Wait, I actually pulled everything, but was doing a full swap.
You can probably pull off the header or downpipe then leave the driveshaft hanging. I used a glove + zip tie to put over the end of the trans so any leftover fluid would go in there + not on the ground.
You can probably pull off the header or downpipe then leave the driveshaft hanging. I used a glove + zip tie to put over the end of the trans so any leftover fluid would go in there + not on the ground.
06-17-10, 01:34 AM
#10
I was hoping I could just let the driveshaft come out of the tranny (why do I feel guilty for typing that?) and was expecting to be able to access the driveshaft and tranny. The heatshield does complicate that a bit. Taking the exhaust down won't be an issue, just some donuts holding it up. Then again the heatshield is probably only 6 or so extra bolts.
But speaking of bolts...I forgot about the clutch cylinder on top of the tranny....one more thing to do
But speaking of bolts...I forgot about the clutch cylinder on top of the tranny....one more thing to do
06-17-10, 12:07 PM
#11
I'd suggest removing the exhaust back to the mufflers, or the whole thing. A few heatshields can also be removed for better access to the sides of the transmission. The rear mount and switches will be pretty hard to access with all of the heat shields in place. Removing some heatshields will also give you room to take the driveshaft down. You'll have a lot easier time reinstalling the engine/transmission if you don't have to mess with trying to insert the driveshaft while sliding everything else in place. With the exhaust and heatshields out of the way, bolting the driveshaft back up is a 5 minute job.
And to catch any oil from the transmission, I've done like incubuseva mentioned, but I used a zip-loc bag and a rubber band.
And to catch any oil from the transmission, I've done like incubuseva mentioned, but I used a zip-loc bag and a rubber band.
06-17-10, 12:21 PM
#12
I was planning to take down the driveshaft and exhaust for install. But the car is sitting outside in a high traffic area and I don't want to mess with taking the exhaust and driveshaft to storage while the rebuild is happening. I was hoping to tie both the shaft and exhaust up and out of site. But I can adapt.
06-17-10, 12:28 PM
#13
Once you're under the car, it will be pretty clear what you can get away with. Another issue with some of the heatshields is clearance while the transmission swings down. I can't remember if it would hit them, or if it was just a tight fit. I just took it all off and had a friend under the car to guide everything in/out.
06-17-10, 12:52 PM
#14
^ I left the transmission mounts and transmission stuff last on my list. I'll probably end up leaving the driveshaft connected at the differential. Let the transmission side slide out when the engine is pulled. I'll cover the transmission with a bag as soon as it comes free. But till then what fluid runs out will just have to happen. I'll probably remove the heat shielding but I'll decide next time I'm under the car. Not only do I need to worry about clearing the heat shield when it swings down, but also fluid would run onto the heat shield and need to burn off.
06-24-10, 11:11 PM
#15
Just a heads-up. Got the engine out and down to a keg. I ended up taking the exhaust off and the heatshield. There was a second brace a little further towards the rear of the car. It had 4 bolts (14mm) the two on the driver side I could see but the passenger side was under the heatshield. That brace was keeping the transmission and driveshaft from dipping down low enough for the driveshaft to come out of the transmission.
Things look good so far. Exhaust manifold doesn't have any cracks, gonna take the turbo to a shop and let them inspect it. It does have some play in it but it's the first turbo I've owned so I don't know how much play is ok. All the fins are good though so I didn't shoot any seals through...or that I can tell anyway. Looking through the exhaust ports what i could see of the apex seals looked good. Very encouraging so far....
Things look good so far. Exhaust manifold doesn't have any cracks, gonna take the turbo to a shop and let them inspect it. It does have some play in it but it's the first turbo I've owned so I don't know how much play is ok. All the fins are good though so I didn't shoot any seals through...or that I can tell anyway. Looking through the exhaust ports what i could see of the apex seals looked good. Very encouraging so far....
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