My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it was brand new too.

Zaldak

ok well I made the LED code tester(cost is aprox $15.00) and car is showing no codes. so now what should I move onto next?

So here is a short recap:

car will start but only sometimes takes about 15-20 attempts all of wich include haveing to run the unflooding procedure and or sometimes the ATF trick

car has been started now about 8 times (since not running from the past 5 years due to needing fuel pump, coils and a new ECU)

the first 6 times it ran I shut if off due to heavy smoke out of exhaust (likley from being so heavily flooded and not running for so long)

last 2 times it has started it stalled on it own after only a few min of running(smoke had finally cleared up on the 7th attempt smoked heaily on the 8th due to running atf trick)

All engine wires and connections have been inspected and reinspected 100+ times over

Oil and filter were changed

No codes showing on LED reader

AFM was removed and inspected

All "dry" hoses were removed and checked for cracks/leaks

Compression test has not been done, bought a tester and will doing a compression test tomorrow.

It seems to me that is is having a major flooding issue, causeing me to have such a hard time starting it in the first place but I am not certin if this is the actual problem or not.

Thank you to everyone for all the help thus far, please keep the advice guidance comming.

Zaldak

Well I was able to do the compression test tonight after all and I must say the results are disapointing and now show the problem with getting this car going

Front: 30's-30's-90's
Rear: 90's-90's-90's

so I guess two seals are shot. Ah well now to just get rid of it.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

could actually just be one seal stuck but the only real way to get it unstuck is to get the motor running and keep it running. i still think there is another problem with either the AFM, the fuel pump or the fuel filter.

if you can get it running and cleared out then full warm it up and empty a can of carburetor cleaner into the UIM ports to the front rotor while keeping the RPMs just low enough to keep it running and not stalling out. after that then let it idle for about 10 minutes then run the **** out of it redlining it several times. if compression still comes up the same then it probably has a chipped apex seal.

Zaldak

Well now we have to go back to my ignorance.

Are you saying the seals move within the rotor tips and can possibly be stuck in place? cause I am lost on that statement and would really like to learn more about that.

Also what/where is UIM ports? pic or diagram would help please but of course I will go look it up for myself aswell.

I have another fuel pump I can install in it.
Fuel filter is one of the things I have not changed on the car as none of the local auto shops here supply one, I figured since I get lots of fuel my fuel delivery system is fine anyhow... does it "have" to be an RX-7 filter or can I use some universal one?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

The seals are supported by a spring. So yes, they move. How much, I couldn't tell you.

This is the UIM (ignore the wiring)



I believe the front rotor ports are the right two in the top picture or bottom two in the bottom picture.

Zaldak

Thank you for the above pics however I dont where on that I am supposed to be looking to dump the carb cleaner. do I need to take my engine apart to do this?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if you spray into any one of the ports on the front of the manifold it should get to both rotors which is also fine. just pull one of the lines up near the 13B fuel injected markings and spray into that port while holding the throttle open to keep the engine from stalling out.

drago86

This sounds kinda normal to me, If you started the car a number of times and shut it off before it warmed up you WILL flood it. If the thermowax is removed or not working, the car will stall until it is warmed up. Your thermowx is removed or broken because the car is suppost to idle at 1500 rpm until warm enough to idle at a normal idle. If you did this enough times, like it sounds like you did, the plugs are now trash. Replace the plugs, let the car fully warm up by sitting in it and holding the throttle to 1500ish rpm, then go take it for a spin. 30 psi is low but it isnt gone seal low, retest the compression after you take it for a drive, after its fully warmed up. For future reference, shutting a rotary off before its warm is a sure way to flood it, mazda was even having huge problems with this on rx-8's, its in the rx-8 manuel even.



I just thought of something else, If after it has warmed up fully, If it is ideling below 750 rpm, turn the idle speed up, It is the flat head screw directly on top of the UIM. It might be that your thermowax is working, just your idle is adjusted so low that its only bringing it up to 900 rpm, so as soon as the thermowax disengages the car is dying.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

here is a 12A rotor, same deal. one broken apex seal (apex seal fits in the foremost visible groove in picture) will cause 2 faces of the rotor to lose compression.


as far as premixing, it's a great idea for any rotary engine, recently stored/sitting or not. an ounce or two per gallon on top of the oil metering pump will be just fine (1 ounce/gal is 1/128, pretty dilute). just make sure you use TCW3 outboard oil. it is clean burning. quicksilver, castrol, generic... whatever you can get your hands on as long as it's in spec. the only problem you'll have is a little extra smell... and maybe a nice buzz at a long stoplight.

these guys are pointing you on the right track and i've got to say VERY nice find btw. your paint is in great condition. how many miles are on it and how much did you get it for? if you don't mind me asking.

Zaldak

Thank you
I originally bought it as a parts car for my 87 GXL(had a wee accident that dammaged the front end slightly) but life had other ideas for that old girl and I no longer have it.

Anyhow this 86 GX has 179,xxx kms (dont know what that is in miles) and I picked it up for $500.00 CAN plus $60.00 for a tow dolly and $40.00 gas includes returning the dolly to rental place which was in a town 1hr away.

So um ya total cost $600.00 CAN brought home. :P

Have spent about $300.00 on it thus far in parts (ecu, fuel pump, fuses, oil/filter, etc.)

If can get it going without a rebuild then it should only need brake work to safety
and I have talked to a shop about a 5 speed swap already for aprox $1000.00 - $1200.00, if it needs a rebuild I dont know yet what that would cost and I am not in a postion to do it myself so hopefully can have it done around the $1000.00 range otherwise sell it off before winter or put it in storage till spring when hopefully I can afford all the work to be done.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

That's around 111,000 miles.

Welcome to the interweb... http://www.newsbee.net/newstand/miles.html

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

Don't overlook low compression, especially in a rotary engine that sat for a while. When you added the atf, you "boosted" the compression temporarily by giving the side seals a needed coating. When the coating burned away, you were left with low compression again. Just a hunch. Most rotors that I have removed from engines that sat for a long time had side seals that were so jammed in the grooves with carbon that they couldn't be removed without gouging the rotors.

Zaldak

Soon as I can locate a place to tow the car too, I will be starting it up and putting the carp cleaner to it, then reving the **** out of it as suggested by people in this thread and others I have talked to. four indepentent people have given the same response now so looks like a good chance to atleast try once more. Then i will do a final compression test and see where it is at.

I even went out yesterday and bought her a new battery so I dont have to keep cranking it off cables, I'd love to do it now but I cant in the parking lot of the apt so soon as I have a place to tow it and try I will post the results.

Zaldak

Well ok today is the day, going to be running the car and adding the carb cleaner and will post the results later this afternoon.

finally my manual has showed up in the mail aswell, so that will be a big help. (maybe I can use it to actually figure out where I am pouring the carb cleaner into) lol

anyways wish us luck. (RX-7 god's know we'll need it) :P

Zaldak

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140027304545&ssPageNam e=ADME:B:EF:CA:11

Zaldak

mods can delete this thread now, there is no more use for it.

thanks to everyone once again.

with the recent loss of work, home and place to keep the car I can no longer afford this headach and I am pretty much ready to just push it on the railway tracks get in it and go to sleep.