hanman

I have removed my logicon. I am looking for advice from anyone who has repaired theirs. I started resoldering the cold solder joints tonight. What a pain.
Do you have to resolder all of them, or just the ones that look bad?
Thanks,
hanman

RETed

Concentrate on the ones on the faceplate.


-Ted

MtnRacer

I remember the feeling well of pre-logicon fixing. Seriously, this is a SNAP. You will have no problems... I repaired mine to fix my left turn signal problem, and there was obvious corrosion. I went ahead and soldered the rest of the joints that the pins went to anyway. Logicon works beautifully, I can legally make left hand turns again, what more could I want?

Steve

SaabGuy

I remember my logicon had a fried resister in it. This may have been because the mix motor was sorta siezed, but I oiled it up and everything has been fine since.

hanman

Thanks for the responses. Ted, the ones on the faceplate look the worst. So I think your advice is spot on.
I do have two questions though:
1. Do I have to heat up the existing solder connections and try and clean off the old solder, or can I just resolder the connection?
2. Where is the air mix motor located. I did not see it (although I wasn't really looking) when I pulled the logicon. And, can I hook it up to a 12V source to see if it is working?
Thanks a million guys.
Dave

SaabGuy

You can see parts of it under the drivers side dash twards the middle of the dash. theres a few levers and linkages that you will be able to see.

RETed

I would recommend to get rid of the old solder as much as you can.&nbsp The original stuff is acid-core and is nasty stuff.&nbsp These might crack again in the near future, as the acid weakens any other solder you put over it.&nbsp This is one of the reasons why they crack in the first place!


As SaabGuy mentioned, if you look from the driver's side footwell into the center console area, you'll see a cylinderical component that has a bunch of linkages going to it.&nbsp That's the air mix motor.


-Ted

hanman

Ted,
Ok, so far I have tried to remove the old solder by heating it up with my soldering gun on the lower heat level, and then using a q-tip or whatever I can to clean the connection. Good? or is there an easier way?
Thanks,
Dave

RETed

Q-tips?&nbsp Now that makes for an interesting picture.

There are things called solder wicks - it's just a copper braid that works decently well.&nbsp If you're getting good results with the Q-tips, hell, keep using them!

I also have a Hakko vacuum de-soldering pump that's like $500.


-Ted

hanman

No they don't work real well.
Could I pick up the braid at Radio Shack or a hardware store?
Thanks,
Dave

nopistons

Radio Shack sells a "De-soldering Iron" for $10, and it works great. It's just a soldering iron with a hollow tip which is attached to a squeeze bulb. You squeeze the bulb with your thumb, put the tip on the old solder, and when it melts, release your thumb from the bulb. Works every time.

Icemark

solder suckers are only $10-$15, and work on the same idea

RETed

Oh crap, I forgot about those sucker bulbs!


-Ted

Icemark

well, If you are doing chips, the vacuum like Ted mentions, is the only way.

But for basic connections on non-wave soldered boards the sucker or a bulb works better IMO than a braid.

hanman

Thanks, I bought both the braid and the bulb. So far I agree the bulb works better.
Dave