Locktite on tenson bolts?
#1
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Locktite on tenson bolts?
When i tore down my s5, the bolts were easy to unscrew, feel no more then 15-20lbs.
I dont think i can use locktite and oil on the threads at the same time. or can i?
I dont think i can use locktite and oil on the threads at the same time. or can i?
#2
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You're referring to their thread locker product, right? It seems like it would be a good idea to keep the bolts from retreating, but wouldn't that make them a REAL pain to remove if you ever had to rebuild again?
#5
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your threads tend to be confusing.
What are you asking? Are you asking if the thread locker would help keep the tension bolts from lossening up?
When you were removing the tension bolts from the block, they could just plain not been torqued down properly from the start.
Or your 'feeling' could have just been that, unless you were using a torque wrench to remove them, you wouldnt know how much force you were using on them.
What are you asking? Are you asking if the thread locker would help keep the tension bolts from lossening up?
When you were removing the tension bolts from the block, they could just plain not been torqued down properly from the start.
Or your 'feeling' could have just been that, unless you were using a torque wrench to remove them, you wouldnt know how much force you were using on them.
#6
BDC Motorsports
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#8
TANSTAFL
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Why is there so much BS in this thread?
Silicone? Where'd you hear that?
You're supposed to oil the threads and sealing washers and torque to spec in the sequence shown. That is all.
If they needed loctite, the FSM would specify that.
99% of the time you're better off downloading the FSM and following that procedure, rather than asking the rx7club.
Silicone? Where'd you hear that?
You're supposed to oil the threads and sealing washers and torque to spec in the sequence shown. That is all.
If they needed loctite, the FSM would specify that.
99% of the time you're better off downloading the FSM and following that procedure, rather than asking the rx7club.
#10
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If you want to use it, they several varieties.
If it's coming loose, it's not torqued in sequence. When it's out clean the threads on the tension bolts
#12
TANSTAFL
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They probably werent torqued properly. The wrench could have been out of calibration. I've taken apart motors that were torqued properly and they were just as hard as a factory block to start the tension bolts coming out.
The oiling is factored into the torque specification. That much less fristion makes a difference. It's the same reason you only put 1/2 to 2/3 the normal torque on a fastener if you have put antiseize on it.
#13
Lives on the Forum
First, it's the washers that tend to keep the tension bolts in place.
Second, the FSM explicitly states that "engine oil" is used on the tension bolt threads and tension bolt washers.
GO READ THE *@($%^*$ MANUAL.
Third, "silicone" is a very bad thread locker.
I would never recommend it to keep fasteners together.
This thread should be locked.
-Ted
Second, the FSM explicitly states that "engine oil" is used on the tension bolt threads and tension bolt washers.
GO READ THE *@($%^*$ MANUAL.
Third, "silicone" is a very bad thread locker.
I would never recommend it to keep fasteners together.
This thread should be locked.
-Ted
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First, it's the washers that tend to keep the tension bolts in place.
Second, the FSM explicitly states that "engine oil" is used on the tension bolt threads and tension bolt washers.
GO READ THE *@($%^*$ MANUAL.
Third, "silicone" is a very bad thread locker.
I would never recommend it to keep fasteners together.
This thread should be locked.
-Ted
Second, the FSM explicitly states that "engine oil" is used on the tension bolt threads and tension bolt washers.
GO READ THE *@($%^*$ MANUAL.
Third, "silicone" is a very bad thread locker.
I would never recommend it to keep fasteners together.
This thread should be locked.
-Ted
#18
Manual Rack
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First, it's the washers that tend to keep the tension bolts in place.
Second, the FSM explicitly states that "engine oil" is used on the tension bolt threads and tension bolt washers.
GO READ THE *@($%^*$ MANUAL.
Third, "silicone" is a very bad thread locker.
I would never recommend it to keep fasteners together.
This thread should be locked.
-Ted
Second, the FSM explicitly states that "engine oil" is used on the tension bolt threads and tension bolt washers.
GO READ THE *@($%^*$ MANUAL.
Third, "silicone" is a very bad thread locker.
I would never recommend it to keep fasteners together.
This thread should be locked.
-Ted
#22
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If he was using the housing for a turbo, he should just change the sleeves out and port it.
Cleaning takes the longest when rebuilding and you should never re-use o-rings, tension bolt washers ...etc.
It's not expensive to buy OEM gasket set. You shouldn't go cheap route when rebuilding. Not saying you are.... just some people go the cheap route and end up pulling motor again.
Tension bolts should never need loctite if you use new washers and proper torque sequence. I go over that thing at least 4 times and always in sequence.
Cleaning takes the longest when rebuilding and you should never re-use o-rings, tension bolt washers ...etc.
It's not expensive to buy OEM gasket set. You shouldn't go cheap route when rebuilding. Not saying you are.... just some people go the cheap route and end up pulling motor again.
Tension bolts should never need loctite if you use new washers and proper torque sequence. I go over that thing at least 4 times and always in sequence.
#24
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#25
I wish I was driving!
Do not use silicone on the tension bolt threads.
The iron should be chased with a bottoming tap, and the tension bolt threads ran through a die.
A sponge soaked with 5W30 sitting on your assembly bench is an easy (and more importantly, clean) way to oil your tension bolts before installtion. Do not use thread locker. The tension bolts don't tend to loosen, but if you really want to be sure, paint a stripe on the head of each tension bolt and on the rear iron. If upon dissassembly, the lines don't line up, you know they have loosened.
The iron should be chased with a bottoming tap, and the tension bolt threads ran through a die.
A sponge soaked with 5W30 sitting on your assembly bench is an easy (and more importantly, clean) way to oil your tension bolts before installtion. Do not use thread locker. The tension bolts don't tend to loosen, but if you really want to be sure, paint a stripe on the head of each tension bolt and on the rear iron. If upon dissassembly, the lines don't line up, you know they have loosened.