I just got a new project car (an 87 TII) and have fixed just about everything aside from some minor electrical glitches. The locks don't work at all and the sliders move up and down with no resistance and there is no audible noise. It has been raining here (and I have to work on this stuff outside) so I haven't had a chance to get into the doors and see what's up with that yet.

Now, the main issue... I did the resoldering and some of the other things as suggested on here and sure enough my electricals started working again. I was quite impressed with myself and when I closed the door I heard a beep and was again impressed that something else was working. Then as I opened the door the alarm went off. I was thrilled that it worked, but then confused as to why it worked with the doors unlocked. I've come to the conclusion (just guessing really since I can't see in there yet) that whatever sensor determines if the lock position is seeing the door as locked even though they're 'broken'.

So as a temporary fix I unplugged the security unit until I fix the locks. That's fine, but it seems like the horn runs through that system so now I can't honk... Is there any reason I couldn't run a jumper connection at the security system plug-in that would allow the horn to work until I get the locks working?

Thanks in advance.

 

Hook it back up and try shutting the alarm off by using the key in the hatch.

The cars with the factory alarm also have an extra horn.

 

When I set it off today I was able to turn it off by putting the key in the ignition and turning it to ON. I would have liked to have left it blaring for a bit to see what all it was doing but I'm sure the neighborhood would love that...

So far I've only found one horn (though again I haven't been able to do much due to rain) and it was in the very front under the coolant reserve tank. The Haynes manual doesn't seem to mention the horn or the security system. Where is the second horn located? Do they operate independently (one for the security system and one for the driver)?

Thanks again.

 

Check the online FSM, the alarm section is long.

 

Thanks. I wouldn't call what the FSM has on the subject comprehensive and it doesn't really answer the question, but I appreciate the suggestion. Plus, I found someting odd while reading it... In the alarm section car schematic they have the hood labled as 'FOOD'.

 

LoL. I have seen several spelling mistakes in manuals over the years. Some are quite funny, like the one you saw.

And on the security system note, I didnt think that alarms cared one way or another if the doors were locked or not. Ive never messed with the factory one on 7s, but on the aftermarket ones that I have messed with, if you alarmed the car, you alarmed the car. It didnt matter if the doors were locked or not. But maybe the stock system was different, I dont know.

Anywho...good luck finding out about the problem. I dont see why you wouldnt be able to put in a temporary jumper cable, by-passing the alarm system.

Try it....see if it works. Cant hurt anything.

**EDIT** Just noticed you are in Roanoke....what a beautiful place. I lived in VA for most of my life. Such a nice state.

 

Well if finally quit raining long enough to get into the doors. After a few moments of figuring out what I was looking at I noticed that the arm that goes from the selector to the lock mechanism had been removed and stored down in the bottom of the door (intentionally, both the driver and passenger door were like this). So I put that back on and I could lock and unlock the door with no problem from the inside. However, there was no indication that the other door was trying to follow the driver door which leads me to think electrical still. The outside driver lock has never worked with either key I have and the passenger side is sketchy.

This has been a fun project car because it's like working backwards to solve a mystery. The horn was disconnected because the security system wasn't working right. The security system is likely malfunctioning because of the door locks. The door locks were apparently disabled to keep the owner from locking himself out. Now my question is why was it so easy to lock himself out and so hard to get back in? I guess since I've fixed all the disabled systems I'll soon find out... Logically, it has something to do with the keys not working in the door. Maybe he replaced the ignition but didn't set the new ignition to be the same as the door?

And yep, Roanoke isn't bad. I grew up about 40 miles to the north on the Cowpasture River near Clifton Forge. Now THAT'S beautiful country. ;)