Line Lock
#26
RX for fun
iTrader: (13)
Im in the process of installing a TCI line lock for my FB. Since its hard to find a fitting to mate metric to standard, Im going to run new hard brake lines (metric in one end AND standard on the other end). I made plans on where to mount it etc etc, but I noticed that the driver side of FB hard brake line has loops in it (unlike the passenger side, its loopless).
I've done many brake jobs but Im not sure if it will make a difference if I dont follow the original brake design.
thanks
I've done many brake jobs but Im not sure if it will make a difference if I dont follow the original brake design.
thanks
#27
Rotary Freak
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Originally posted by wackyracer
Im in the process of installing a TCI line lock for my FB. Since its hard to find a fitting to mate metric to standard, Im going to run new hard brake lines (metric in one end AND standard on the other end). I made plans on where to mount it etc etc, but I noticed that the driver side of FB hard brake line has loops in it (unlike the passenger side, its loopless).
I've done many brake jobs but Im not sure if it will make a difference if I dont follow the original brake design.
thanks
Im in the process of installing a TCI line lock for my FB. Since its hard to find a fitting to mate metric to standard, Im going to run new hard brake lines (metric in one end AND standard on the other end). I made plans on where to mount it etc etc, but I noticed that the driver side of FB hard brake line has loops in it (unlike the passenger side, its loopless).
I've done many brake jobs but Im not sure if it will make a difference if I dont follow the original brake design.
thanks
#29
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by Cory Simpson
Why wouldn't you just use ONE of those proportioning vavle's and put it on your rear brake line. Then shut it off, and you only have front brakes....
Seems ALOT easier, and soounds cheaper. Plus one of those proportioning valves I posted has a cable that you can put on it, and you run the cable to the dash or were ever, and put the vavle under the car, or right off of the master cylinder....
Why wouldn't you just use ONE of those proportioning vavle's and put it on your rear brake line. Then shut it off, and you only have front brakes....
Seems ALOT easier, and soounds cheaper. Plus one of those proportioning valves I posted has a cable that you can put on it, and you run the cable to the dash or were ever, and put the vavle under the car, or right off of the master cylinder....
Aswell, with your method, you would still have to step on the brakes to activate the front brakes.... almost negating the purpose of line-lock. See below.
#30
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by Rxmfn7
Well....I was 1/2 joking..... hence the winky face And what the hell else would you need a linelock for? Its used for burnouts once you pull out of the waterbox at the dragstrip...
Well....I was 1/2 joking..... hence the winky face And what the hell else would you need a linelock for? Its used for burnouts once you pull out of the waterbox at the dragstrip...
Line-lock, also referred to as roll control, allows you to lock on your front brakes while staging. This way, you can slip your clutch and preload the entire drivetrain without rolling forward. This saves inital shock to the drivetrain, which is not only stressful on parts, but also usually results in spinning tires. This preloading works better when you don't have the rear brakes activated.
You can do something similar by merely stepping on the brakes with your heel and then modulating the gas pedal with your toe... but its hard to master. Controlling the front brakes offers far easier gas modulation for launch.
Now... this form of launches is very effective... as you can tell, the typical "rev-it-up and dump the clutch" method used so commonly by the forum members doesn't exactly result in great 60-foot times, due to bogging the engine. Launches aren't just important in drag racing, they can make or break your time during autocross.
To make this system REALLY consistent for launches, intall a brake pressure gauge (ever wondered why someone would want to use that gauge?), as you don't need to apply full brake pressure before activating the line-lock.
I really liked how I was able to launch my car using this system of launches. I found it very consistent, and resulted in being able to modulate launches to maintain the car at a relatively constant rpm (my estimated torque peak) until the clutch was let all the way out.
#32
Is that thing Turbo?
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Originally posted by Cory Simpson
Why wouldn't you just use ONE of those proportioning vavle's and put it on your rear brake line. Then shut it off, and you only have front brakes....
Seems ALOT easier, and soounds cheaper. Plus one of those proportioning valves I posted has a cable that you can put on it, and you run the cable to the dash or were ever, and put the vavle under the car, or right off of the master cylinder....
Why wouldn't you just use ONE of those proportioning vavle's and put it on your rear brake line. Then shut it off, and you only have front brakes....
Seems ALOT easier, and soounds cheaper. Plus one of those proportioning valves I posted has a cable that you can put on it, and you run the cable to the dash or were ever, and put the vavle under the car, or right off of the master cylinder....
I see what your saying tho shut off the back line so that when you hit the brakes with the switch on it just does the front but this would be a problem if he had to work the clutch and gas too
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