Lil bit of everything....(kinda long!)
#1
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Lil bit of everything....(kinda long!)
Quite a few things here, help with engine to advice on self porting and 3mm apex seals! (didn't want to fill the page with threads about different stuff
)
And yes i did try to do a search on this, but when i click the search this thread, my IE crashes (yes, my computer isn't in any better condition then my car:P)
Existing car problems!
1. Car wont start after driving it if i try to start it after 2 hours or so. Ive been able to start it after 4 hours sometimes, sometimes not. My guess is an injector leaking fuel into the engine after i turn it off. (pulling the fuse, cranking it over, replace the fuse, car starts fine, tho, sometimes the speedo wont move, but then turning the car off then on again, and the speedo works just fine)
2. When trying to hold a constant speed, i can feel a slight jerking forward. Not noticable on acceleration, or when on going over 50mph. Mainly only when driving back streets at around 2k rpms. Im assuming this could be caused by a leaky injector, or possibly timing being off?(how hard is doing the timing yourself?).
3. Battery drain. Are there any common things that can go wrong that would cause the battery to drain just from sitting? Thiers a wierd blue wire coming off the battery that heads to the firewall infront of the drivers seat, im assuming that this isn't normal:/ I'll try and figure out what its going to later today. (my best guess at whats causing the drain) My alternator should be charging it okay, i have no mods, never have anything on exept maybe my radio or headlights, and i just replaced the alt about 500 miles ago after my old one locked up and snapped 2 belts. (I'm going to put an FD alt once i get the extra $)
4. Hesitation on 5/6th port activation, but its not constant. 50% of the time it feels like theres hesitation on acceleration at 3800 rpms, other times there isn't. Would that be caused by bad grounding?
thats all i can think of right now, but im sure i'll think of more later![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Okay, now onto the question of porting and 3mm apex seals.
I was fiddling with the idea of picking up the engine from my old rx7 thats sitting at a junkyard, pulling apart the engine, and having some fun in my free time. (sold the car to a friend, told him to replace the pulsation dampener, he didn't listen, car turned into a fireball on the side of the freeway
)
Would the engine still be okay to rebuild and port after having an engine fire?
(Fire was pretty bad, everything that wasn't metal in the engine bay melted down into a puddle on the ground)
I have access to a mill that will work very nice for machining the rotors to hold the 3mm apex seals. Does anyone have a blueprint or anything that might show what nessasary clearances there needs to be? Would a carbite cutting head work best, or will a plain hardened steal cutter do the job well? (either way, i'll have to special order it so i know im getting the precise clearence so it doesn't pop)
Wheres the cheapest place to get a rebuild kit if i decide i want to try to do this?
Thanks for any and all help! Sorry for the long post!
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
And yes i did try to do a search on this, but when i click the search this thread, my IE crashes (yes, my computer isn't in any better condition then my car:P)
Existing car problems!
1. Car wont start after driving it if i try to start it after 2 hours or so. Ive been able to start it after 4 hours sometimes, sometimes not. My guess is an injector leaking fuel into the engine after i turn it off. (pulling the fuse, cranking it over, replace the fuse, car starts fine, tho, sometimes the speedo wont move, but then turning the car off then on again, and the speedo works just fine)
2. When trying to hold a constant speed, i can feel a slight jerking forward. Not noticable on acceleration, or when on going over 50mph. Mainly only when driving back streets at around 2k rpms. Im assuming this could be caused by a leaky injector, or possibly timing being off?(how hard is doing the timing yourself?).
3. Battery drain. Are there any common things that can go wrong that would cause the battery to drain just from sitting? Thiers a wierd blue wire coming off the battery that heads to the firewall infront of the drivers seat, im assuming that this isn't normal:/ I'll try and figure out what its going to later today. (my best guess at whats causing the drain) My alternator should be charging it okay, i have no mods, never have anything on exept maybe my radio or headlights, and i just replaced the alt about 500 miles ago after my old one locked up and snapped 2 belts. (I'm going to put an FD alt once i get the extra $)
4. Hesitation on 5/6th port activation, but its not constant. 50% of the time it feels like theres hesitation on acceleration at 3800 rpms, other times there isn't. Would that be caused by bad grounding?
thats all i can think of right now, but im sure i'll think of more later
![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Okay, now onto the question of porting and 3mm apex seals.
I was fiddling with the idea of picking up the engine from my old rx7 thats sitting at a junkyard, pulling apart the engine, and having some fun in my free time. (sold the car to a friend, told him to replace the pulsation dampener, he didn't listen, car turned into a fireball on the side of the freeway
![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Would the engine still be okay to rebuild and port after having an engine fire?
(Fire was pretty bad, everything that wasn't metal in the engine bay melted down into a puddle on the ground)
I have access to a mill that will work very nice for machining the rotors to hold the 3mm apex seals. Does anyone have a blueprint or anything that might show what nessasary clearances there needs to be? Would a carbite cutting head work best, or will a plain hardened steal cutter do the job well? (either way, i'll have to special order it so i know im getting the precise clearence so it doesn't pop)
Wheres the cheapest place to get a rebuild kit if i decide i want to try to do this?
Thanks for any and all help! Sorry for the long post!
#3
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Originally Posted by MDD0101
4. the hesitation at 3800 is sometimes cured with new and better grounds.
Could also be due to malfuntioning 5th/6th port actuator.
1. Pull the injectors and have them cleaned/serviced. Replace the PD with the Banjo bolt while your at it to prevent the engine from catching fire.
2. Could be caused by fuel pump going bad or clogged fuel filter. Fuel filter is the cheaper route to start with. Could also be caused by clogged/leaky injectors. Have them cleaned.
Last edited by xtremeskier97; 04-11-05 at 01:58 PM.
#4
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sweet, thanks for the help but...wtf is a banjo bolt? lmfao
what does it usually run to have injectors cleaned?
Can i just clean the current ground connection?
im plannin on replacing the fuel filter this week while in BFE watching my sisters house
what does it usually run to have injectors cleaned?
Can i just clean the current ground connection?
im plannin on replacing the fuel filter this week while in BFE watching my sisters house
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#5
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Pulsation Dampner => Banjo Bolt
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=395021
Have a read.
Yes..you can use your current grounds. Just clean them up real good. OR go here
www.rotaryresurrection.com and look in the "TECH" section. LOTS of goodies there, including "Ground Wire How To".
For FI cleaning:
http://www.rceng.com/
OR
http://www.witchhunter.com/
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=395021
Have a read.
Yes..you can use your current grounds. Just clean them up real good. OR go here
www.rotaryresurrection.com and look in the "TECH" section. LOTS of goodies there, including "Ground Wire How To".
For FI cleaning:
http://www.rceng.com/
OR
http://www.witchhunter.com/
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