lightweight flywheels... worth it?
#27
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Originally Posted by BlueSteel
stock is 28 lbs.
~$400 Racing Beat is 17 lb. steel
~$400 SR Motorsports is 9.5 lb. aluminum
~$300 Fidanza is 8 lb. aluminum
~$400 Racing Beat is 17 lb. steel
~$400 SR Motorsports is 9.5 lb. aluminum
~$300 Fidanza is 8 lb. aluminum
so it's a balance of weight and design. a poorly desiged 9 lbs flywheel will feel like a well designed 15 pound flywheel.
just my .02
Last edited by soundwavetsunami; 09-19-05 at 11:38 PM. Reason: confusing wording
#28
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Anyone have anything to say about this flywheel? http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...roducts_id=101
178 bucks with no counter weight, also how important is a counter weight?
i think that one is 9.5 pounds
178 bucks with no counter weight, also how important is a counter weight?
i think that one is 9.5 pounds
#29
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I dont think it can function without a counterweight.
where did you find the weight?
I think I'm going to buy that one...
where did you find the weight?
I think I'm going to buy that one...
Last edited by BlueSteel; 09-20-05 at 10:50 AM.
#30
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The weight, says it in the description, or it says it on the N/A one they show. I think it's in the description of the turbo flywheel. They also sell some other flywheels. Badass website though. tweakit.net
Last edited by First gen man; 09-20-05 at 02:39 PM. Reason: mispelled word
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too bad they're in austrailia.....$60 shipping to get it in 10 days. ouch.
what does it mean when it says it requires a 4 port style pressure plate?
what does it mean when it says it requires a 4 port style pressure plate?
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i thought you said you have a na? the flywheel looks like its for a turbo gearbox....iirc the difference between the two is diameter...so you'd have to change quite a bit to get it to work.
The weight is about 12 pounds it says.
Jahan
The weight is about 12 pounds it says.
Jahan
#34
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Originally Posted by drft_180sx
i thought you said you have a na? the flywheel looks like its for a turbo gearbox....iirc the difference between the two is diameter...so you'd have to change quite a bit to get it to work.
The weight is about 12 pounds it says.
Jahan
The weight is about 12 pounds it says.
Jahan
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Originally Posted by BlueSteel
too bad they're in austrailia.....$60 shipping to get it in 10 days. ouch.
what does it mean when it says it requires a 4 port style pressure plate?
what does it mean when it says it requires a 4 port style pressure plate?
turbo engine pressure plate
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Originally Posted by RSVampire
The lightness of the flywheel has nothing to do with how the clutch engages/disengages. That's the clutch my friend. You don't need an insane clutch to hold on to a lighter flywheel. You can buy the lightest flywheel and stay with a stock clutch setup and be fine. And if you've heard of "mating issues with act and rb" you've heard wrong.
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I've been thinking about a lightened flywheel for my GXL but have held off because I've read in a few places that the lighter you go, the more low-end HP and torque you'll lose because the lighter flywheel doesn't have as much inertia as the stock. The gains in the upper end should make up for it though, especially if you have a S5 with the higher redline and VDI.
The other concern is having to pull the waterpump and front cover off to replace the counter-weight. That means new seals all around and you have to get the bolt off of the e-shaft pulley which was a bitch last time I did one. You also have to be very carefull pulling everything off the e-shaft so you don't screw up the needle bearings, right?
The other concern is having to pull the waterpump and front cover off to replace the counter-weight. That means new seals all around and you have to get the bolt off of the e-shaft pulley which was a bitch last time I did one. You also have to be very carefull pulling everything off the e-shaft so you don't screw up the needle bearings, right?
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Originally Posted by uRizen
The other concern is having to pull the waterpump and front cover off to replace the counter-weight. That means new seals all around and you have to get the bolt off of the e-shaft pulley which was a bitch last time I did one. You also have to be very carefull pulling everything off the e-shaft so you don't screw up the needle bearings, right?
Is it really that involved? they have to take the flywheel off to to remachine it anyway when changing the clutch...
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Originally Posted by BlueSteel
Is it really that involved? they have to take the flywheel off to to remachine it anyway when changing the clutch...
Here's a diagram f/ the FSM and it's order on the e-shaft:
#45
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Originally Posted by uRizen
I've been thinking about a lightened flywheel for my GXL but have held off because I've read in a few places that the lighter you go, the more low-end HP and torque you'll lose because the lighter flywheel doesn't have as much inertia as the stock. The gains in the upper end should make up for it though, especially if you have a S5 with the higher redline and VDI.
The other concern is having to pull the waterpump and front cover off to replace the counter-weight. That means new seals all around and you have to get the bolt off of the e-shaft pulley which was a bitch last time I did one. You also have to be very carefull pulling everything off the e-shaft so you don't screw up the needle bearings, right?
The other concern is having to pull the waterpump and front cover off to replace the counter-weight. That means new seals all around and you have to get the bolt off of the e-shaft pulley which was a bitch last time I did one. You also have to be very carefull pulling everything off the e-shaft so you don't screw up the needle bearings, right?
As far as replacing the counterweight goes, you don't have to pull the front cover at all. The stock cast iron flywheel has a built-in rear counterweight that the lightweight steel and aluminum flywheels lack. You can either buy a counterweight with your flywheel or get a counterweight for the automatic version of your car and bolt it up.
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Oh yeah, forgot to mention that numbers 11 and 12 are fun because the first is the CAS gear so you have to be careful lining it back up when putting it back in from what I can remember so your timing is right and the second is the drive gear for the oil pump and you need to be careful with that chain.
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Originally Posted by ScrapFC
Maybe I can help out here: The mass of your rotating assembly has nothing to do with your HP. HP is a measure of work over time. Reducing your rotating mass just lets the rotating assembly change RPM faster, thus the engine can "bog out" more easily when taking off (less kenetic energy stored in the rotating assembly) and it can rev more freely once you get going thus it feels more powerful.
As far as replacing the counterweight goes, you don't have to pull the front cover at all. The stock cast iron flywheel has a built-in rear counterweight that the lightweight steel and aluminum flywheels lack. You can either buy a counterweight with your flywheel or get a counterweight for the automatic version of your car and bolt it up.
As far as replacing the counterweight goes, you don't have to pull the front cover at all. The stock cast iron flywheel has a built-in rear counterweight that the lightweight steel and aluminum flywheels lack. You can either buy a counterweight with your flywheel or get a counterweight for the automatic version of your car and bolt it up.
The initial power loss makes sense too, it sounds like it shifts the powerband higher up the RPM range but you hit higher RPMs faster so it's all good. It just might not be the best if you like to put-put around in your FC (which you should be driving in a more spirited fashion, shame on you!).