Let's Try This Again Shall We? carb q's
#52
Well, I asked for a war and certainly got one. Thanks for the entertainment everyone, especially Teds and NZ's comebacks.
Someone mentioned the SDS(www.sdsefi.com). Ted knows I like this unit. That combined with a 1st gen distributor will be an improvement over stock FI. Probably more gain with the Haltech since you can control your ignition and don't need the 1st gen distributor.
Its your money crossbar17, you spend it the way you want to. Teds suggestion on the Racing Beat catalog is a good idea.
Someone mentioned the SDS(www.sdsefi.com). Ted knows I like this unit. That combined with a 1st gen distributor will be an improvement over stock FI. Probably more gain with the Haltech since you can control your ignition and don't need the 1st gen distributor.
Its your money crossbar17, you spend it the way you want to. Teds suggestion on the Racing Beat catalog is a good idea.
#53
Originally posted by NZConvertible
Airflow produces power, not how you introduce the fuel. The stock ECU requires the airflow meter (it can’t be bypassed) and this will eventually limit the engine’s airflow potential. So if a carb and its manifold is big enough to outflow the stock AFM/TB/manifold it will produce more peak power. However because a carb can’t meter fuel anywhere near as well as EFI, it’ll probably lose power through the low- and mid-range, and will have the slower, rougher throttle response. Chuck on programmable EFI (no AFM) and it’s a whole new game. Any carb big enough to outflow that set-up would drive terrible at anything other than WOT and high rpm.
Airflow produces power, not how you introduce the fuel. The stock ECU requires the airflow meter (it can’t be bypassed) and this will eventually limit the engine’s airflow potential. So if a carb and its manifold is big enough to outflow the stock AFM/TB/manifold it will produce more peak power. However because a carb can’t meter fuel anywhere near as well as EFI, it’ll probably lose power through the low- and mid-range, and will have the slower, rougher throttle response. Chuck on programmable EFI (no AFM) and it’s a whole new game. Any carb big enough to outflow that set-up would drive terrible at anything other than WOT and high rpm.
#55
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If you used a Haltech. Couldn't you simply attach the air filter directly to the throttle body, thus increasing the flow. I know the heat may hurt, but it would almost be like having a carb with fuel injection, and an awesome computer to control it.
#56
Originally posted by Samps
If you used a Haltech. Couldn't you simply attach the air filter directly to the throttle body, thus increasing the flow. I know the heat may hurt, but it would almost be like having a carb with fuel injection, and an awesome computer to control it.
If you used a Haltech. Couldn't you simply attach the air filter directly to the throttle body, thus increasing the flow. I know the heat may hurt, but it would almost be like having a carb with fuel injection, and an awesome computer to control it.
#57
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Originally posted by Samps
If you used a Haltech. Couldn't you simply attach the air filter directly to the throttle body, thus increasing the flow. I know the heat may hurt, but it would almost be like having a carb with fuel injection, and an awesome computer to control it.
If you used a Haltech. Couldn't you simply attach the air filter directly to the throttle body, thus increasing the flow. I know the heat may hurt, but it would almost be like having a carb with fuel injection, and an awesome computer to control it.
Actually, I’ll add this to my list of disadvantages of a carb. Unless to fabricate an airbox around the filter, you’ll be sucking hot air and lowering power potential.
#58
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You dont need a distributor with a carb , I run a weber and use the stock 87 DIS. I paid $150 for my weber which did give me about a 20 hp gain but I also get 10 miles to the gallon. So if you can find a carb cheap cool but if not dont waste your money.
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