LED Problem (not what you think)
12-17-02, 05:20 PM
#1
pei > caek
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Mars
Posts: 4,643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LED Problem (not what you think)
http://home.rmci.net/panther/86_88ecu.htm
I did that setup properly (the lights do come on). My problem is when I hook the LED straight upto the battery it lights up to its full potential (doesnt glow, not that type of led
). But when the ecu lights it up from that diagnostic plug, they will barely light up and you can barely tell they are on (shut off after 3 seconds like normal). Is there anyway to make these things brighten up more? According to my dmm the plug does put out 12v, I dont see the problem 
Im going to be posting some pics of my car and stuff later when I get my film developed.
I did that setup properly (the lights do come on). My problem is when I hook the LED straight upto the battery it lights up to its full potential (doesnt glow, not that type of led
). But when the ecu lights it up from that diagnostic plug, they will barely light up and you can barely tell they are on (shut off after 3 seconds like normal). Is there anyway to make these things brighten up more? According to my dmm the plug does put out 12v, I dont see the problem Im going to be posting some pics of my car and stuff later when I get my film developed.
12-17-02, 06:41 PM
#2
Re: LED Problem (not what you think)
Originally posted by dr0x
http://home.rmci.net/panther/86_88ecu.htm
I did that setup properly (the lights do come on). My problem is when I hook the LED straight upto the battery it lights up to its full potential (doesnt glow, not that type of led). But when the ecu lights it up from that diagnostic plug, they will barely light up and you can barely tell they are on (shut off after 3 seconds like normal). Is there anyway to make these things brighten up more? According to my dmm the plug does put out 12v, I dont see the problem
Im going to be posting some pics of my car and stuff later when I get my film developed.
http://home.rmci.net/panther/86_88ecu.htm
I did that setup properly (the lights do come on). My problem is when I hook the LED straight upto the battery it lights up to its full potential (doesnt glow, not that type of led
). But when the ecu lights it up from that diagnostic plug, they will barely light up and you can barely tell they are on (shut off after 3 seconds like normal). Is there anyway to make these things brighten up more? According to my dmm the plug does put out 12v, I dont see the problem Im going to be posting some pics of my car and stuff later when I get my film developed.
Jarrett
12-17-02, 07:54 PM
#3
pei > caek
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Mars
Posts: 4,643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No clue, there arent any displayed. It just says "12v Light" on the box and on the back it says "This wire goes to power, this one ground" lol. But its the only thing I could find that might work They were 2$, Im not gonna complain much :P
They are only lighting up like half of what they do on the battery.
They were 2$, Im not gonna complain much :PThey are only lighting up like half of what they do on the battery.
12-17-02, 10:44 PM
#7
pei > caek
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Mars
Posts: 4,643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
K. Well I really dont want to switch. Stupid me didnt test them on the ecu harness until after I installed them. So I need to find circular ones that are 1/2in w/ a lower amperage What are the ones you use rated at?
What are the ones you use rated at?
Trending Topics
12-18-02, 01:37 AM
#10
j-rat, i did the same thing, but my lights are red (from radioshack) like u did but my lights don't come on at all, hailers told me change my ecu cuz my car is pretty messed up at this moment, so does anyone got ideas how to check if the ECU is half'd fried? (i.e. check resistance of TPS connector? [not tps but the engine harness side]) cause i know if its fully fried the car won't work @ all.
12-18-02, 01:41 AM
#11
pei > caek
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Mars
Posts: 4,643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ionno. Im going to try to clean the connectors in the harness and see if thats what is giving me the shitty current.
On another note I just got leather door panels in my turbo ii
On another note I just got leather door panels in my turbo ii
12-18-02, 08:20 AM
#12
Greek Power
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Greece
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Um guys, as anyone who knows anything about electronics will tell you, if the LEDs dont light up (or light up very dimly), then they are rated at higher Amps as the ECU puts out. Simple as that. Find lower amperage LEDs and you are good to go...
PS: LEDs that dont mention their amperage ? What kinda stupid LEDs are those ?
PS: LEDs that dont mention their amperage ? What kinda stupid LEDs are those ?
12-18-02, 09:04 AM
#13
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
600HP CLUB
You were using your leds on the green connector were you not????? With a meter, see if 12v exists at the single socket on the GREEN connector. That should be there any time the key is to ON. The other two sockets are grounds that are /are not there depending on if the ECU putting one there. The ECU in turn is depending on the TPS to tell it when to put a ground on these two pins on the GREEN connector.
So lets say your drivers in the ECU have gone **** up. You can still set the TPS with 100 percent reliability. First, forget about the GREEN CONNNECTOR. Get your digital meter out. Put the neg on a good ground. Now without disconnecting a darn thing, insert your meters positive lead in the back of the plug for the tps. You want to put that lead in the back of the wire that is colored green with a red stripe. You should see voltage. Now adjust the tps screw until the meter reads 1(ONE) volt. Thats it. Done.
One last thing. The car MUST be hot. Drive it around for fifteen or more minutes prior to setting the tps, to get the water temp up all the way. And if your smart, do this procedure while the engine is idling. Helps maintain the water temp. *If using the two light method, DO NOT idle the car*.
If you cannot get the one volt, write back.
You were using your leds on the green connector were you not????? With a meter, see if 12v exists at the single socket on the GREEN connector. That should be there any time the key is to ON. The other two sockets are grounds that are /are not there depending on if the ECU putting one there. The ECU in turn is depending on the TPS to tell it when to put a ground on these two pins on the GREEN connector.
So lets say your drivers in the ECU have gone **** up. You can still set the TPS with 100 percent reliability. First, forget about the GREEN CONNNECTOR. Get your digital meter out. Put the neg on a good ground. Now without disconnecting a darn thing, insert your meters positive lead in the back of the plug for the tps. You want to put that lead in the back of the wire that is colored green with a red stripe. You should see voltage. Now adjust the tps screw until the meter reads 1(ONE) volt. Thats it. Done.
One last thing. The car MUST be hot. Drive it around for fifteen or more minutes prior to setting the tps, to get the water temp up all the way. And if your smart, do this procedure while the engine is idling. Helps maintain the water temp. *If using the two light method, DO NOT idle the car*.
If you cannot get the one volt, write back.
12-18-02, 09:30 AM
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: California, Bay Area
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NOTE: The ECU seems to protects its output by limiting to 30 ma the current its DCC1, DCC2 and GL output sinks. It is strongly recommended however not to rely on this fact and to use a load that will not require more than 20-30ma. The ECU is essential for proper operation of the engine and is pretty expensive so you cannot be too careful in protecting it.
If you can't get a LED assembly with built-in current limiting resistor, you can build them them from scratch as described in the diagram below. The resistor can be of any value from 330 to 1000 ohm. We recommend to use a 510 ohm resistor that will result in current of about 20 ma through the LED. The diode is used to protect the LED from reverse voltage in case the tester is connected improperly. Any diode such as 1N4001 with a breakdown voltage of 25V or more and maximal current of 100 ma or more will protect the LED just fine.
- toose are exscripts from the temfc3s website, id read that, i recently had problems with pulling the right amperage too
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html
If you can't get a LED assembly with built-in current limiting resistor, you can build them them from scratch as described in the diagram below. The resistor can be of any value from 330 to 1000 ohm. We recommend to use a 510 ohm resistor that will result in current of about 20 ma through the LED. The diode is used to protect the LED from reverse voltage in case the tester is connected improperly. Any diode such as 1N4001 with a breakdown voltage of 25V or more and maximal current of 100 ma or more will protect the LED just fine.
- toose are exscripts from the temfc3s website, id read that, i recently had problems with pulling the right amperage too
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html
12-18-02, 07:43 PM
#16
lights works now, i figured out that #1 and #2 holes ARE NEGATIVE, wHOOPS!!
how am i suppose to tune the tps with the car on?? the damn intercooler is in the way, and if u read on teamfc3s i can't get my voltage lower than 1.3v and it goes all tha way to 6.xv.
and why does it has to be hot?......
i have no thermowax..does it stil matter?
-mike
how am i suppose to tune the tps with the car on?? the damn intercooler is in the way, and if u read on teamfc3s i can't get my voltage lower than 1.3v and it goes all tha way to 6.xv.
and why does it has to be hot?......
i have no thermowax..does it stil matter?
-mike
12-18-02, 08:52 PM
#17
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
600HP CLUB........Glad you resolved your problem.
No, if using the two light method, the cars engine should not be running. But the car should be up to running temp. But you said that you don't have a thermowax, so I guess thats not really required in that case.
Re-read my earlier post about running the car and checking/setting the tps. That was only in the case you could not get the lights to work and were using a multimeter to set the tps. Just disregard that method since you have your led's working. In that case just follow the instructions that you were using for that method. Basically for that method you can heat the car up, turn the motor off and then turn the key to ON. Install the light assy. Turn the tps screw anti-clockwise almost til the screw comes out. Then turn the tps screw clockwise until one light comes on. Then keep turning the tps screw clockwise, slowly, until the two lights come one. Then turn the tps screw anti-clockwise slowly until just where one light comes on. Done.
Bottom line is that when you finish doing it that way, you could take a digital meter and install the positive lead in the back of the TPS plug, where there is a green wire with a red stripe, and the meter will read approx one (1) volt. In other words, there's more than one way to skin a cat. A third way is to set the tps using the resistance method.
The above was for a series four. Not a series five.
No, if using the two light method, the cars engine should not be running. But the car should be up to running temp. But you said that you don't have a thermowax, so I guess thats not really required in that case.
Re-read my earlier post about running the car and checking/setting the tps. That was only in the case you could not get the lights to work and were using a multimeter to set the tps. Just disregard that method since you have your led's working. In that case just follow the instructions that you were using for that method. Basically for that method you can heat the car up, turn the motor off and then turn the key to ON. Install the light assy. Turn the tps screw anti-clockwise almost til the screw comes out. Then turn the tps screw clockwise until one light comes on. Then keep turning the tps screw clockwise, slowly, until the two lights come one. Then turn the tps screw anti-clockwise slowly until just where one light comes on. Done.
Bottom line is that when you finish doing it that way, you could take a digital meter and install the positive lead in the back of the TPS plug, where there is a green wire with a red stripe, and the meter will read approx one (1) volt. In other words, there's more than one way to skin a cat. A third way is to set the tps using the resistance method.
The above was for a series four. Not a series five.
12-18-02, 08:59 PM
#18
ok my car and my friends car going through the exact same problem, exhuast backfires, hesitation, surging, stop and go, sluggish throttle, just think RUNNING REALLY RICH, well i did the ECU check, nothing comes on, the lights come on for three secs and dissapear, Then i unplug the TPS and Thermo thingy, the lights start flashing, so what i'm asking is that is it possible that a sensor is fu*ked and the ecu doesn't know it?
-mike
-mike
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
The1Sun
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
09-18-15 07:13 PM