i took a look... by staring at the port actuators while reving the engine.
they dont move at all and im pretty sure they would even when not actually driving.
i tried moving them by hand... are they suppose to be easy to move or not cause i could barely move them.

so i think i can confidently say they arnt working.

 

im not sure about s5's, but the actuators on the s4 will not open when not under load (while driving)

 

o, and jimi: every car has its little quirks. you will not kno nearly as much as you think about any car you may buy untill you have own it for a bit. the fc is exactly thee same, just with a few more of those quirks

 

Stick with it, i did and now i have an engine that runs pretty good, a few bugs to work out but it runs great!

It is really very simple to work on.

 

my 91 n/a is fast 100+ n 3rd. just want more....

back on topic,

with the actuators off I turned both mine with fingers.

might want to look at your plugs, I changed mine about 8 months ago, and I didnt think to look at them till today. I just took out the rear l and t.
Both had Carbon build up on them trailing more then the leading. I can only imagine what it looks like in there..

 

what do you mean with the actuators off....

are you suppose me be able to move them while installed in the car??

 

YES. while installed on the lim, you should be able to freely move them with your hands. if you can, then they should be fine. if you feel lots of resistance, you have a prob.

 

take off the actuators, 10mm two each, and the plunger slides off the valve, little wiggle with flat head might help. they ( Valve) move counter clockwise. I did this after I took the pic's

 

im just throwing around ideas but could my secondaries not be firing right?? because the lack of power comes right around the time the aux ports are to open but also the secondaries are suppose to start firing then aswell.

tell me, how difficult would it be for it to reach redline under load if the secondaries weren't firing correctly.
cause i' been reading and it's not like it wont rev past 4, it does. just very slowly when under load and it just feels like ****. it actually sounds like it's struggling.

i guess it would very bad luck if it was both the secondaries and the aux ports huh...

 

When i was first getting my car running i had to drive it for a little while with NO sec injectors at all (well i had some bad one there just to block the fuel rail).

And in that setup i could get it to go to redline if i just pressed the gas a little. If i went to WOT though it would hit ~4000rpm like a rev limiter.

Simple way to test this it to just unplug the sec injectors, if the problem stays the same then you found the problem.

 

whats the simplest way to do that...

sorry i have never dealt with injectors before

 

Just unplug the injectors that are on the upper intake manifold. there is a metal retainer that holds them on, take that off then pull the plug off.

 

if the injector is taking off do i have to worry about anything coming out of the fuel rail?

 

Don't remove the injector, just unplug it. That will stop them from firing without any other hassels.

 

ah ok ok makes sense

 

hey
how easy are the port sleeves to be to move by hand?
cause i'v figured out that im able to move the right actuator but not the left.
so i removed the left actuator and found out i can move it. so i tried to turn th sleeve but it's pretty stiff. i suppose it needs a cleaning but i was just wondering how easy they are suppose to be able move by hand.

and for the lack up power i have could that be caused by the single malfunctioning port?

 

dunno, i mean that means that only 1 rotor is performing correctly, so i suppose so?

 

To remove the sleeves you have to take the entire intake off. Not hard per se but you have to take you time and be careful.

I just did this to mine, you should be able to turn both shafts easy by hand.

 

actually it wouldnt be the rotor... wouldnt it be the airpump
p/ solinoid not turning the ports?