Koyo install questions
07-13-09, 05:14 PM
#26
You poor SOBs with your plastic or missing drain plugs. As I've mentioned to Rob before, my Koyo came with two metal plugs. It may be due to the source I used, since it also came with a mounting kit. It was bought from www.absoluteradiator.com. You might try contacting them to see if the plugs come with the radiators from Koyo, or if they add them in later.
07-13-09, 05:15 PM
#27
Knucklehead
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Well mine arent broke, I just never had any 
. My car is in pieces waiting for the e-fan and koyo install. I will have to order them, but I'll have them by the morning.
. My car is in pieces waiting for the e-fan and koyo install. I will have to order them, but I'll have them by the morning.
07-13-09, 11:06 PM
#28
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Also RR88, I think I was looking at your efan setup for that black magic fan. I'm 95% sure I have the same fan, it's the same make, not sure about model. You had those brackets made? They're looking real nice, wish I knew someone that could fab me a set cheap so I didnt have to molest my radiator again.
07-14-09, 04:35 PM
#29
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well I got those plugs I ordered from pep boys, and of course they weren't right. I looked on the box and it actually showed the size and thread pitch. So some guy went that worked there took me to the aisle with the plugs they had in stock. Of course they've had them in stock and all this poopy running around and stressing out was pointless.
07-14-09, 05:28 PM
#31
Also RR88, I think I was looking at your efan setup for that black magic fan. I'm 95% sure I have the same fan, it's the same make, not sure about model. You had those brackets made? They're looking real nice, wish I knew someone that could fab me a set cheap so I didnt have to molest my radiator again.
You could probably have a machine shop make some for you, but it won't be cheap. Though an alternative would be to make them 2-piece and bolt together.
07-14-09, 05:56 PM
#33
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You might have the same one. There a few models that look about the same (150 & 165 for example). And the brackets were made by my father back when the fan was his. He has 30+ years of TIG welding under his belt, so I luck out whenever something needs to be welded up. Free fan and free brackets for me, since he no longer has an RX-7.
You could probably have a machine shop make some for you, but it won't be cheap. Though an alternative would be to make them 2-piece and bolt together.
You could probably have a machine shop make some for you, but it won't be cheap. Though an alternative would be to make them 2-piece and bolt together.
I figured as much. This Koyo used to have a shroudless permacool fan on it and now I'm using this black Magic, I'm worried about so many holes in my radiator
07-14-09, 08:15 PM
#37
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I'm not sure what to do with the fan because I don't have mounting brackets. I didn't use those plastics rods before, it was bought like that. I'll see what I can figure out
07-23-09, 12:05 AM
#38
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Well I got the plugs for the radiator, installed that. I also have a black magic e-fan that I purchased a while back and needed the mounting brackets. I got that. Bought a relay kit at a local hot rod shop, with a supposed 195 thermoswitch. I'm not sure if it really is or not.
My e-fan seems to kick on when the stock temp gauge (all I got right now) is abot 3/8 to 1/2 of the way up. My problem is that when it does kick on, it doesnt seem to cool the car any. To test it a little further, I went ahead and turned on the AC to max to see if it could handle that. It could not. I didnt leave it on very long but the temp reached about 2/3 of the way up. I never saw those kinds of temps with the stock fan. I'm concerned that the blade on the e-fan is on backwards or perhaps I needed to top off the fluid a little more (I just thought about that, I dont think I let the t-stat open and fill it up again). I hope this crap works out.
Thoughts are welcome. I know RotaryRocket88 has the same setup (same rad I believe too) and he said his car runs cooler than a polar bears toenails
My e-fan seems to kick on when the stock temp gauge (all I got right now) is abot 3/8 to 1/2 of the way up. My problem is that when it does kick on, it doesnt seem to cool the car any. To test it a little further, I went ahead and turned on the AC to max to see if it could handle that. It could not. I didnt leave it on very long but the temp reached about 2/3 of the way up. I never saw those kinds of temps with the stock fan. I'm concerned that the blade on the e-fan is on backwards or perhaps I needed to top off the fluid a little more (I just thought about that, I dont think I let the t-stat open and fill it up again). I hope this crap works out.
Thoughts are welcome. I know RotaryRocket88 has the same setup (same rad I believe too) and he said his car runs cooler than a polar bears toenails
07-23-09, 12:18 AM
#39
Well, for one it sounds like your 195F switch triggers late like mine did. I found mine coming on at about 203-208F instead (halfway-ish on the stock gauge). Once on, the temps would stay pretty constant if I was driving on surface streets. On the highway, the higher speeds would allow the temperature to drop down to around 180F. I never tried it with the A/C, since it's not working properly.
Under what conditions did you test this? Driving around town or idling? I'm assuming if you tested during this last week it was also hot as hell, since it's been 90-100F here in Southern CA.
Under what conditions did you test this? Driving around town or idling? I'm assuming if you tested during this last week it was also hot as hell, since it's been 90-100F here in Southern CA.
07-23-09, 12:45 AM
#40
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I tested it about an hour ago. It's about 100 right now
I let it idle for about 5 minutes in my driveway to make sure I didnt have leaks from anything. I wanted to see it kick on, but my fuel was real low so I cruised it to the gas station about 1.5 miles away. The way there I was on it a little to test to see how it handles being revved up. After it was up at halfway I took it nice and easy, just going lightly on the throttle. Maybe 1500 RPM (whatever 45 is in 5th gear)
I think that it might kick in late like yours as well. I also know I forgot to add more coolant after the t-stat opened so I'm hoping thats one of the problems (or THE problem)
Where did you end up getting the new thermoswitch from>?
I let it idle for about 5 minutes in my driveway to make sure I didnt have leaks from anything. I wanted to see it kick on, but my fuel was real low so I cruised it to the gas station about 1.5 miles away. The way there I was on it a little to test to see how it handles being revved up. After it was up at halfway I took it nice and easy, just going lightly on the throttle. Maybe 1500 RPM (whatever 45 is in 5th gear)
I think that it might kick in late like yours as well. I also know I forgot to add more coolant after the t-stat opened so I'm hoping thats one of the problems (or THE problem)
Where did you end up getting the new thermoswitch from>?
07-23-09, 01:36 AM
#41
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Well I just took it for a run on the freeway to see what would happen. I took it for about a 4 mile trip on the freeway, about 3 on streets. On the way to the freeway, on regular roads, it held steady at about 1/2 way. When I got on the freeway it cooled down to about 3/8 of the way again. Getting off the freewayI decided to kick on my heater just in case. It ended up getting to 2/3 the way up the temp scale, I was freaking out. When I got home, I took a look under my hood, and saw that my radiator cap was leaking coolant.
Not sure that would cause my high temps, but alarming nonetheless.
I think this may be part of the problem. When I was doing this koyo install, I decided to pull off my TB and clean it up, and pulled off my UIM as well. Emissions are removed so I have this hose that comes off the rear iron (I think), and goes into the back of the water pump. It looks bent, heres a pic
I knew that wasnt good so I tried my best to make it better by trimming it down a little and re-fitting it. It looked like it wouldnt get crimped again, so I went forward with the testing. Now I fear that it is bent even worse than before, theres no other way I can figure why my temps are not cooling as well as they did with a stock rad.
Not sure that would cause my high temps, but alarming nonetheless.
I think this may be part of the problem. When I was doing this koyo install, I decided to pull off my TB and clean it up, and pulled off my UIM as well. Emissions are removed so I have this hose that comes off the rear iron (I think), and goes into the back of the water pump. It looks bent, heres a pic
I knew that wasnt good so I tried my best to make it better by trimming it down a little and re-fitting it. It looked like it wouldnt get crimped again, so I went forward with the testing. Now I fear that it is bent even worse than before, theres no other way I can figure why my temps are not cooling as well as they did with a stock rad.
07-23-09, 11:26 AM
#43
Well, does the switch you have keep the fan running until the temperature gets down to a certain point? Mine for instance was supposed to switch on at 195F, then run until temps dropped to 185F. In reality, it came on at 203-208F and ran until about 178F. Also, I'm not using a switch at all anymore. I have the SPAL PWM-V3 fan controller now.
And the leaky radiator cap and bent coolant hose shouldn't be causing your problem. If the cap started to leak, the coolant that seeped out was destined for the overflow tank anyway. Then the coolant line in your picture is the return path for the coolant pumped through the BAC and the thermowax, so it's not part of the main cooling system. It's really only there to heat those devices up. Your bypass method is the common one, but you could get a formed hose from an auto parts store that has the 90* bend you need. Something with a thicker wall, that won't fold over so easily may help. Some stores will let you browse through their racks until you find something that looks like it'll work, which is way easier than trying to guess which make/model would have something you can adapt.
I think the route of your problem may just be the late switch point combined with the hot weather. The Black Magic 150 flows 2800 CFM, which is more than enough, so my guess is that it's just not running as often as it should. Purging your coolant system of air and keeping it full will obviously help too.
And the leaky radiator cap and bent coolant hose shouldn't be causing your problem. If the cap started to leak, the coolant that seeped out was destined for the overflow tank anyway. Then the coolant line in your picture is the return path for the coolant pumped through the BAC and the thermowax, so it's not part of the main cooling system. It's really only there to heat those devices up. Your bypass method is the common one, but you could get a formed hose from an auto parts store that has the 90* bend you need. Something with a thicker wall, that won't fold over so easily may help. Some stores will let you browse through their racks until you find something that looks like it'll work, which is way easier than trying to guess which make/model would have something you can adapt.
I think the route of your problem may just be the late switch point combined with the hot weather. The Black Magic 150 flows 2800 CFM, which is more than enough, so my guess is that it's just not running as often as it should. Purging your coolant system of air and keeping it full will obviously help too.
07-23-09, 02:41 PM
#45
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I'm assuming that SPAL-PWM only works with an ems?
Rob, I cant say that I am happy. When running stock rad and clutch fan, only time it would get to half is if I was running the a/c. When I turned it off it would drop back down.
I guess I will get a new hose for that bypass, and try putting the stock clutch fan back on temporarily and trying it out...
Rob, I cant say that I am happy. When running stock rad and clutch fan, only time it would get to half is if I was running the a/c. When I turned it off it would drop back down.
I guess I will get a new hose for that bypass, and try putting the stock clutch fan back on temporarily and trying it out...
07-23-09, 03:19 PM
#47
I'm assuming that SPAL-PWM only works with an ems?
Rob, I cant say that I am happy. When running stock rad and clutch fan, only time it would get to half is if I was running the a/c. When I turned it off it would drop back down.
I guess I will get a new hose for that bypass, and try putting the stock clutch fan back on temporarily and trying it out...
Rob, I cant say that I am happy. When running stock rad and clutch fan, only time it would get to half is if I was running the a/c. When I turned it off it would drop back down.
I guess I will get a new hose for that bypass, and try putting the stock clutch fan back on temporarily and trying it out...
Also, where is your temperature switch located? If it's on the cold side of the radiator, your fan will switch on late.
The stock fan is very good, but I think part of it may be how often it locks up. At full operating temp (~180F), the stock fan's clutch is locked up 100% of the time, while his e-fan switch may be letting his fan cycle off at too soon after coming on.
07-23-09, 03:39 PM
#49
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My thermoswitch is in the upper rad hose.
I'm gonna be a little bummed if the e-fan is the problem, I didnt drive my car for like 2 weeks trying to get this whole thing worked out. I've heard of so many of you though using this same fan (and radiator), and not having these issues.
I'm gonna be a little bummed if the e-fan is the problem, I didnt drive my car for like 2 weeks trying to get this whole thing worked out. I've heard of so many of you though using this same fan (and radiator), and not having these issues.
07-23-09, 04:41 PM
#50
I currently am using a 200/185* switch from Summit bunged into the rad hot side (crossflow Griffin). I get nor overshoot at all, but the fan still doesn't turn off while driving-ever. If I EVER get finished with the Honey-do project from hell I am putting the sender in the back of the thermostat housing. Doing this while replacing the water pump.
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