2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

keep blowing EGI fuse

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Old 05-26-03 | 01:17 PM
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keep blowing EGI fuse

well...I still haven't figured out my boostin problem, but now I have even bigger problems. I was attempting to drive to a friends bday party last night when about 1/4 mile from my house I hear a small pop. The car dies. I call my dad and we tow it home, where I inspect the car and find a blown EGI fuse.

I pop in a spare 30amp fuse I have around the hose. Poof, right when I crank the car I zap the new fuse too. I try it once more. Sure enough once I crank the car I blow the fuse. Where should I start looking? Major grounds? This sounds like a fun day for me
Old 05-26-03 | 01:34 PM
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See if any wires are shorting out on the body, also make sure it requires a 30amp fuse and not a 60a or even an 80.
Old 05-26-03 | 02:23 PM
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it's definitely 30amp

I've checked the entire wiring harness and didn't notice any wires that could have been shorting out. Holy **** I hate electricity.
Old 05-26-03 | 05:16 PM
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Well, time to tear into the wiring diagram...Fun!

Lets see where the EGI fuse goes, shall we>?

Looks like it powers both coils, fuel pump, fuel relay, and the injectors.

If it were me, I would disconnect all these (except the injectors), and put a fresh fuse in. Crank car. If fuse doesnt blow, then start reconnecting them one at a time till you discover whats causing the short.

If you crank, and it blows, you may want to start looking at the connectors for the injectors.

Good luck, electrical problems are a BEEEEAAAAACH!!!

Jarrett
Old 05-26-03 | 05:44 PM
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The 30amp feeds what was mentioned above, coils, fuel pump resistor relay, but it also feeds every darn solenoid on the rack of solenoids.

I'd first take a look at the split air solenoid and port air solenoid that are screwed into the acv. See if the wires are shorted or burnt through on those two items first.

It also feeds the air supply valve, PPCV, BAC EGR, AIR BYPASS, TCV, SWITCHING SOLENOID, RELIEF SOLENOID, PRESSURE SENSOR and ATP.

I'd suspect the two solenoids on the acv. Not so much the solenoids themselves, but the wiring at/to them. Just disconnect all the easy to get at solenoid connectors and try turning the key to on/start whatever and see it the fuse pops.
Old 05-26-03 | 05:56 PM
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Damnit HAILERS!! Always gotta show off!!!! ...

What wiring tab were you using?
Old 05-26-03 | 06:05 PM
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EGR/ACV are all removed already. Split air pipe is gone as are my cats if that makes any difference.

I was just looking through the FSM and this looks like a fun one.

Don't worry I'll be back to bitch later, thanks for the help.
Voltmeter time.
Old 05-26-03 | 06:20 PM
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heh quick update:

I put the 30amp fuse from the headlight into the EGI slot because I'm about to run to the store for a few fuses anyway....

I crank the car and it starts for a bout a second, then dies. I look at the fuse for EGI...it's not blown. I swap it back into the headlight retractor slot and the headlights will go up and down so it's not blown. However with that fuse in the EGI slot the car will just continue to crank. Is there another fuse that could have blown. Upon further reflection that probably wasn't the smartest thing I could have done. lol oh well time to do some searching.
Old 05-26-03 | 06:23 PM
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Yes, it's called the ENGINE fuse and it's located in the crew compartment.
Old 05-26-03 | 06:43 PM
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Checked engine fuse, it's good. When I take it out the fan came on, just like if I would have taken the EGI fuse out to deflood the engine.

I tried cranking it again, and it almost catches for a second. All attempts afterwards though it just cranks and doesn't come close to catching. I almost think it's flooded, but I don't think so. I wonder if I'm actually getting fuel into the engine. I think I'm going to pop open the fuel pump cover and yank off one of the lines and see if I can pump fuel into a bucket.
Old 05-26-03 | 07:08 PM
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Flooded.
Old 05-26-03 | 07:27 PM
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I just tried towing it behind my dads yukon and dropping the clutch from about 15 mph. The tach would go to about 1k but I couldn't hear that the car was actually on and it went down to 0 just as soon.

This is some hardcore floodage if that's what it is indeed. Time for some ATF?
Old 05-26-03 | 08:30 PM
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negative. pull the plugs, crank the engine, clean the plugs, reinsert and start.
Old 05-26-03 | 08:43 PM
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meh, I cleaned lower plugs but didn't try cranking with them out. Doh! I've never had any sort of severe flooding problem like this....I'm still not sure if I'm entirely convinced that the engine is flooded. Well Iguess I'll find out.
Old 05-27-03 | 02:31 AM
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CHECK FOR SPARK!!!!!


Jarrett
Old 05-27-03 | 02:31 PM
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well I found the original start of all my problems. Now I know why everyone bashes the old engine harness. On one branch from the harness the BAC and o2 sensor split off together. Well I was disconnecting different items that ran off of the EGI fuse and I had recently taken the intake off....so If figure lets start here. I move the BAC wire around a little....and then I hear the sparks. I look inside the crumbling harness and see party of the o2 sensor wire was frayed as was part of the wire that connects to the BAC. I then realized to yank the neg. terminal. Gaaaaaaah well I have the original problem fixed...still won't start.

I yanked the plugs, turned the car over, cleaned plugs, and put them back in and was still a no go. I don't think it's flooded to tell you the truth.

I assumed I was getting spark, I haven't checked for it yet. I guess it's time to check for spark.

However when I pulled the plugs they were dry to the touch....I wonder if any fuel is actually getting to the engine. Time to check for voltage at the fuel pump.


Last edited by gsracer; 05-27-03 at 02:37 PM.
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