Please try to help!!!

i just relocated my battery.
most everything is work fine, like key reminder
brake light
flash light
emgency light
doom/room light

but i only read like 0.03 volt at ingition key
from www.the12volt.com
Constant 12V+ Black beforce Ignition Switch Harness
white/red after the harness to the key.
ignition/ignition2, acc, starter will read 0.03 v
after i turn the key.
@0.03 v it couldn't turn on any dash light

checked in manual wiring diagram
the 80 am fuse is the only thing betten the 12+ battery
and ignition key.
so i check the 80 amp fuse twice at bolt that hole the fuse.

if you have similar problem please share me and the fourm

i think there are relay for the ignition mount next to the T ignition coil/ clutch fill/check cap.
that's the only think i could think of now.
i was hoping my car will run today.
so tomorrow i will have car to go work.
but it didn't turn out that way
i have been defeated... badly by my car
i don't think i could sleep tonight!
please try to reply as soon as posible

 

I would guess a ground or "bonding" issue...

Where did you attach the negative cable terminal on the chassis?

What about the positive charging wire to the alternator?

 

the negative cable? well i put it back on the old wire(cut the battery connector) same for the +
the wire go directly from the battery in the store bin to
where the old battery cable wire go.

 

on the 12+ it had a smaller wire the go to the main fuse.
i did it the way like the battery is up front.
except for a extra ground go on the back.( i guess extra ground is good right?)

 

You must have made a bad splice somewhere, I think...

ALL of the fuses are good?

 

yes all main fuse and small fuse in car are good
i cut about 5 inch of the old bat connector to make sure i have good bare wire. i did use the electric conduct thing for spak plug/spark plug wire.
and i read 12.87-12.89v after main 80 amp fuse.

 

You used SPARK PLUG WIRE on your battery cables???

That stuff's got about 16K ohms per meter of resistance...

 

everything seem work fine. just no 12+v @ the ignition key source.
i will hot wire after 80 amp fuse direct to the iginition source tomorrow...
as soon as i get home from work.
and i'll see if it work or i will fire something.

 

LOL oh nooo
i use the gel thingy
i through it would conduct more electric over the join.

 

OK, do a good visual check of the large black wire that feeds that 80A fuse- it comes in from the bottom, and has a connector down the harness a bit, make sure you didn't disconnect it...

"Gel thingy"???

 

i get 12.8Xv both side of the 80a fuse
but i will add another wire to it tomorrow.

about the gel thingy
http://www.factorydirectperformance.com/access4.htm

scroll down about 3/4
i use another band.

 

Ahh, OK...

Don't worry about adding another wire, if you've got good voltage already...

How did you crimp the old and new battery cables together?

 

it's 12 now
go bed and try to get some sleep
have to wake up at 4 tomorrow to go work
lucky i just found a ride

 

mettle pipe size about the marker.
long about 1 1/2 to 2 inch
and have two big bolt go down on each end.
so yeah.. just strip the wire down plug in and screw down, same for another side....
the hold thing is mettel so they just conduct electric through.

 

i will tackle my car down tomorrow.. well hopefully...
and i'll get picture too.

 

i got it!!!!!...
i just hot wire after the 80amp fuse direct to ignition source(white/red wire at ignition)
turn on the key and my radio work!!!!
i didn't try to started it....
because i use 18 gauge wire...
that's the bigest i could find while holding flash light in my store house

strange huh? stock ignition wire were like 10 gauge or smaller
and it not connected/shock... i thought i would fired
everything b 4 that wire is going to give up
should i leave the stock wire connect after i wired new one to ignition?
i am thinking about taking the stock wire out or not connect it.

yeah... i couldn't sleep last night... so i call in to work this morning.
working on my car at 5 am in the morning...
and nothing feel better then that.

 

now i have to wait for the store to open.
i am going to wire 8gauge after the 80a fuse to alternator then to ignition.

b 4 when i turn the key... well it's like i didn't turn the key at all
nothing fireup/turn on, like radio, dash light....
i hope i could help out someone here.
althought it'll be rarely
because i searched without luck fine same problem.

 

You're using 8AWG for battery to front of car???


-Ted

 

yes belive it or not...
i got it running now...
thanks...
ted do you know the threat for the idle adjust screw?
i car won't idle with out holding the gas padle when the idle screw is all out.
time to search i guess

 

Ted, I think he ran 8 Gauge from the main fuse to the ignition switch, not using it for the main cable runs...

The weird thing is that the ignition power circuit decides to break at the exact time he runs new main cables...???

Tri- look up the FSM on TEAMFC3S.org, all the tests for the idle adjustment are in section 4...Don't forget to jumper the initial set plug (left side of engine bay, green 2-pin plug) to adjust the idle...

 

thank you very wayne for helping me out.
i will post video and pic real soon.
just so happy...
now all i have to do is hunted down the idle... easy fix i guess

 

8AWG from battery to front of car?
Oh oh...


-Ted

 

The way I understood it, Ted, he was using it to rewire from the 80A main to the ignition switch...Kinda hard to follow, though...

 

Instead of hot wiring you should have listened to WAyne. The ignition is fed from a black wire from JUST BELOW THE ENGINE FUSE BOX, to the ignition switch. It is a single male/female connector located approx six to eight inches below the fuse box. If it is apart....on power to the ignition switch.

 

it's easy to post picture now..
i am starting to like this