Just ordered a clutch kit
04-19-07, 01:05 PM
#26
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most puck clutches say install, go to track and launch at 7k...lol
on full clutch material disks, ceramic or organic the best way to break in is 500 miles of gentle driving, drive for 500 miles and stay under 3k, will do the trick.
but since ive never istalled a clutch on a RWD vehicle on my life, i must not know what im talking about
on full clutch material disks, ceramic or organic the best way to break in is 500 miles of gentle driving, drive for 500 miles and stay under 3k, will do the trick.
but since ive never istalled a clutch on a RWD vehicle on my life, i must not know what im talking about
04-19-07, 01:32 PM
#27
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I have this clutch and it is alright. I drive the **** out out of my car and clutch kick and everything for drifting and havn't had any real problems. The only thing I don't like is it shutters when its cold, and the pressure plate is way soft compared to my friends stage 2 ACT.
04-19-07, 02:46 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Rx7TyreBurna
I am running a stage 50000 from racing beat....... 
Remember... you get what you pay for....
Remember... you get what you pay for....
04-19-07, 02:52 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by TweakGames
I just got my XTD stage 3 a few days ago. I blew my motor, but after I put a new one in in a few days I will also have the clutch in. How did you break in the clutch? I didnt see any instructions on how to do so. The last clutch I got for my NA (I have a turbo now) I got locally and it was a stage 2 ceramic 6 puck. His break in instructions were beat the sh*t out of it. haha Needless to say that clutch is STILL holding strong after beating the sh*t out of it 8000 miles later. I'm confused on what the break in process is for. Do you want to smooth things out? Do you want to slowly release the clutch and slip it as much as you can for 500 miles? I don't understand why, I have never had to wear in brakes or anything... *shrugs*
~Thanks
~Thanks
04-19-07, 06:45 PM
#30
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cool should be easy to stay under 3000 rpm for a bit. My past engine had a bad oil seal so I could only got to 4000 haha. And my stock clutch would slip at lower rpm. Should be easy. Anyways does anybody know what PHYSICALLY changes when you do or don't break in your clutch? Why do some need breaking in and other dont?
04-20-07, 03:35 PM
#31
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I went to the act website when i was breaking mine in they recommend 3-400 miles of city driving and not overheating it. On a side note though, if your peddle was not adjusted properly it will smoke the clutch and you'll smell disk(dont think its fully disengaging). Went to a mechanic I know and he recommended that the peddle be adjusted before even starting the car after a clutch install. I would have adjusted it when we did the install but my buddy was being **** bout keeping his old peddle feel even though I pointed out his peddle was way outta spec(like 2-3 inches of freeplay lol).
04-20-07, 06:49 PM
#33
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How do we adjust the clutch? My old NA I would tap the clutch in even an inch and it was disengaged. I LOVED THAT. Quick shift heaven, and my leg never got tired drifting. My old Turbo clutch I had to put it to the ground or I wasn't going to shift..... I hated that.
04-21-07, 03:15 PM
#36
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adjusting the clutch is simple most of the time, as long as you dont have to adjust pedal height(you shouldnt have to unless its been played with). You just turn that little rod that goes from the pedal side through the firewall into the master cylinder. Its only held by one lock nut. I had to turn mine clockwise to take out some of the freeplay.
05-01-07, 06:36 PM
#37
just a little FYI for anyone thinking about buying the street/strip "stage 2" XTD clutch whether it be N/A or turbo, pass it up, i put one in my 86 n/a 6 months ago and its already slipping, and yes it was installed correctly, its just trash. ACT or centerforce next time for me, you do get what you pay for. This car wasnt really beat on either . . .
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