Just bought an rx7 Having problems with it maybe someone can diagnose
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Just bought an rx7 Having problems with it maybe someone can diagnose
just bought a 1987 RX7 Turbo II with supposedly a 1991 RX7 Turbo engine in it. The car breaks up and shutters at 2,200 RPM and then when driving when ever the turbo tires to spool up it breaks up. It has a stock setup. I dont know why it is doing it is there a leak somewhere or do i need a Fuel managment system? Also when the car is stationary and i rev it up the car will backfire and flames shoot out of the exhaust, something is making it run too rich but dont know what. also will a S-AFC work on this car? and also anyone know of any good engine rebuilders in NY. Any help would be greatly appreciated i jsut moved from DSM to a RX7. I have a full exhaust on it from downpipe to catback
Last edited by 87RX7TurboII; 03-17-06 at 01:46 AM.
#4
a faulty maf probably wouldn't do this....
I can't remember the ECU code for the S5 TIIs...
To check the timing, just hand turn the engine until you see the notch on the main pully lines up to the marker on the front cover. the notch to use is the one closest to the drivers side. Hook the timing light to one of the leading spark plug wires and run the car. you should see the light flicker against that notch. Make sure that the car is idling under 1000 rpms...
use the other notch to check the trailing...
I can't remember the ECU code for the S5 TIIs...
To check the timing, just hand turn the engine until you see the notch on the main pully lines up to the marker on the front cover. the notch to use is the one closest to the drivers side. Hook the timing light to one of the leading spark plug wires and run the car. you should see the light flicker against that notch. Make sure that the car is idling under 1000 rpms...
use the other notch to check the trailing...
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i have two ECU's one is N332 and a N327 once i connected the N327 the car ran a lil better didnt break up as much. But with N332 was the stock on mounted to the floor when i got the car and that breaks up a lot. Ill check timing later today
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also im looking for a FPR and a Turbo MAF, any suggestiosn about those, also wheni turb the key to ACC position i hear the fuel being pumped into the system non stop.
#14
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just reread your post
you said it runs crappy on N332 ECU... that is because at low rpm, the injector pulses are shorter due to computer compensating for the larger t2 injectors
you said you are looking for a t2 afm, so chances are, you have NA afm.
what to do?
put the N332 AFM on, make sure you have 550cc injectors, and get a T2 AFM before you drive the damn thing
and dont say otherwise.
you said it runs crappy on N332 ECU... that is because at low rpm, the injector pulses are shorter due to computer compensating for the larger t2 injectors
you said you are looking for a t2 afm, so chances are, you have NA afm.
what to do?
put the N332 AFM on, make sure you have 550cc injectors, and get a T2 AFM before you drive the damn thing
and dont say otherwise.
#15
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yup, you have NA AFM on a turbo, which *should* make the car run richer
but obvious not enough to compensate, so i am guessing you have 460 injectors in.
buy a T2 AFM, run the N332 ECU, and take off the UIM, check what injectors you have. I bet you have 460s in there... since the last owner swapped a newer motor in and those injectors dont work... and it looks like he half-rigged the **** already... so go buy 4 550ccs.
but obvious not enough to compensate, so i am guessing you have 460 injectors in.
buy a T2 AFM, run the N332 ECU, and take off the UIM, check what injectors you have. I bet you have 460s in there... since the last owner swapped a newer motor in and those injectors dont work... and it looks like he half-rigged the **** already... so go buy 4 550ccs.
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alright i installed the new maf N318 i got ran a lil better i connected the other computer in N332. Today i couldnt start the car at all after i was driving it all day kep on cranking for a while. Then i connected the old computer in which was the N327 i know its a non turbo computer but the car runs fine and doesnt hesitate on it. Could it be because i have wrong size injectors on it or what else could be non turbo on the car that it is makign it run bad with the N332 ECU or could it jsut be a bad ECU?
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sounds like you need too check those injectors out like slipn said the numbers are located on the injector,you should be able to read the numbers off the secondary injectors,without pulling the intake,just use a flash light I belive they are supposed too be pink,dont quote me I know the 460cc/min from n/a's are red top, I can get you the correct numbers to look for(denso only)if they're aftermarket your on your own though,will post after work for you info at home
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alright i just checked my injectors they are black look really old and the guy before me had silver paint on them. So i dont kno what else could be wrong. The car runs better on the non turbo ECU then on the Turbo ECU.
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ok the correct injector color for 87 listed as purple,1.5-3ohm,denso number at top of injector on the colored plastic,denso number is N318-13-250 for low resistance purple injectors,also listed with vin split half years could also have dark pink tops,11-15ohms,denso number N319-13-250, both I have listed are what should be in the car
denso list black tops as 330cc/min injectors,found in our older 88-92 mazda 626 turbo cars if they are denso,check the number if its F220-13-250 they are 11-15ohm,you have the wrong injectors,time to go shopping,let me know what you find
denso list black tops as 330cc/min injectors,found in our older 88-92 mazda 626 turbo cars if they are denso,check the number if its F220-13-250 they are 11-15ohm,you have the wrong injectors,time to go shopping,let me know what you find
#22
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sounds like wrong injectors, with that setup if you go into boost you will blow the motor almost guaranteed. be sure you have the correct ECU, MAF and injectors intalled.
my suggestion is doing some homework on your car, sound like you want to upgrade but with no knowledge on the subject. running under boost on upgraded pieces can kill a motor in a heartbeat if you do not do it correctly, rotaries are not nearly as forgiving as piston engines in that aspect.
start with the stock setup and learn from there, starting with an upgraded setup and learning the hard way will ultimately kill your taste for modding these cars and put a real strain on your wallet and you will rarely be able to drive the car. people say they still love their cars when they are in their garage but i know there is a small piece of everyone here who hates their car for being such an **** bitch.
my suggestion is doing some homework on your car, sound like you want to upgrade but with no knowledge on the subject. running under boost on upgraded pieces can kill a motor in a heartbeat if you do not do it correctly, rotaries are not nearly as forgiving as piston engines in that aspect.
start with the stock setup and learn from there, starting with an upgraded setup and learning the hard way will ultimately kill your taste for modding these cars and put a real strain on your wallet and you will rarely be able to drive the car. people say they still love their cars when they are in their garage but i know there is a small piece of everyone here who hates their car for being such an **** bitch.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 03-22-06 at 05:02 PM.
#23
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I've had my rx7 for 8 years and I can count at least 3 different causes for problems similar to this. (Granted, my car was a N/A for most of my research) First thing I would do, check the compression. I'm not saying you have a blown motor by any means, but it's always the first thing to do when you pick up a new rotary. Second thing I would do is build a code checker. The code checker can save you hours of pointless searching. Build the checker with long enough wires and mount them right in your dash. There's no reason not to.
If all goes well with the checker, then I would continue on. I don't think you even need to bother with injectors or leaks or anything for that matter until you get a baseline on your car. BTW, Where are you in NY? I'm in NY and always willing to share any knowledge or help with a local rotor head.
If all goes well with the checker, then I would continue on. I don't think you even need to bother with injectors or leaks or anything for that matter until you get a baseline on your car. BTW, Where are you in NY? I'm in NY and always willing to share any knowledge or help with a local rotor head.
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alright im looking on ebay all i found 550CC injectors but they say for 89-92 turbo model. i just wanted to make sure these fill fit before i buy them. So just please let me know
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Check the numbers before you go out and buy new ones maybe? and stop drivign the damn car, your going to blow it if thoose are NA injectors and you try to boost.