Danified

So I just bought this car and it is a serious mess. It's a 87 turbo with a 91 motor in it with only 2000 miles on a rebuild. It's all polished and painted but they never hooked anything back up. The wiring and sensors are a mess! If someone made me a decent offer I would seriously consider it just to get my money back.

1. Where does the tac hook up to the coil? What sort of connector do I look for and what color is the wire?

2. Where is the boost gauge suppose to hook up? Can I just put it on any vacumn line?

3. The water lines for the turbo are missing. I found one port on the bottom of the radiator, where is the other one? Does it matter what direction the water flows through the turbo?

4. I have a nice miss or loap at idle. I checked the spark plugs and wires and were within specs. Runs great when I give it some gas. Could it simply be the TPS? What else should I check?

5. I have a THUMP sound from the truck when I let out the clutch to fast or try to shift fast. Sounds like the axle or drive shaft is hitting the bottom of the truck. I hear it is a common problem with a bracket breaking. What is the best way to fix that?


I am sure I will have many more questions as I tear into this project and a half.

Thanks for your help!

clokker

iTrader: (2)

That "port" on the lower rad hose is the heater return line. Not connected to the turbo.

Danified

Ok... So where does the turbo hook up? Where does the heater return to?

Spannersrx7

turbo water hooks up to inlet manifold and beside where bottom radiator hose goes to motor

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The heater return goes to the small barb on the lower radiator fitting- note, on the radiator itself.
The turbo drains to a barb on the water pump housing's intake (the bottom fitting)- on the engine.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

2. Any vacuum line that reads pressure, some only read vacuum.

5. I could be mistaken, but it sounds like a broken diff mount? Some people have success with welding the front one, you can also replace the bushings with stock or aftermarket replacements that mazdatrix.com offers. Get a bump stop if you are going to drop the subframe so that it doesn't happen again.

Danified

So the smartest would be to put a Tee in the line that goes to the waste gate since that is the critical point that needs to be monitored right? Or could that affect the operation of the wastegate? Don't they normally connect to somewhere on the throttle body?

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

On the upper intake manifold, just before the throttle body, there's 3 small vacuum nipples on both sides. Any of those will work for your boost gauge.

The thumping sound is more then likely a broken diff mount. Not to hard to change out, but time consuming if you've never done it before. Like one of the above posts said, put a "bump stop" on there. You'll need to drill a hole, but the marking for the whole is already indented in the chassis. They're about $10.00 from summit racing.

As for the running problem, do you have any pics of your engine bay? Make sure your AFM is not upside down and is level.

The heater hose goes from the smaller barb fitting on the bottom of the rad along the side of the engine bay up to the firewall going into the cabin on the passenger side just behind the intake manifold. The other side comes out below the throttle body from in the cabin on the firewall and is connected to the rear iron of the engine. The turbo water lines are pretty easy to find. They're both on the sides of the turbo, the one on the front side (closer to the wheel) goes to the lower intake manifold and is bolted on with two little screws. The other water line is on the other side of the turbo (closer to the engine) and has a barb that's about 3" from the water pump housing barb. You'll need a "U" bent hose for that.

Danified

I looked through the paperwork and it says they put bosch 1600cc injectors in it. Is it maybe just running way to rich at idle?


Notice anything missing? How is this car even running?







Does the Tach hook up to one of these plugs?

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

the tach goes to the Y/L wire that connects in the 4 pin connector to the trailing coil ( yellow/blue)

Danified

The heater core and the turbo aren't hooked up at all right now. Does that mean the motor isn't getting as much cooling as it should? Can I just use the heater port on the lower radiator hose and the turbo port that is below the water pump to cool the turbo?