coxxoc

iTrader: (3)

First, get new gas if you haven't. Get a new fuel filter if you haven't. You say you have air and spark, so the last two things needed to run are spark timing and fuel delivery. Does the tach jump when you are trying to start the car? Can you smell fuel from the exhaust after cranking?

Timing:
Stab the CAS so that you are sure timing is close enough to start.

Fuel Delivery:
Check to see that your injectors are getting a signal with a noid light, or you can be ghetto and remove the rail and watch to see if they spray during cranking. I'm betting after sitting for eight years that the injectors could probably use a good cleaning.

If you have all of these but can't get it to start you may need additional assistance. Before trying a pull start, put a little motor oil in on each rotor face to improve cranking compression. That will usually help start an engine that has been sitting for some time. If not, go get the tow rope.

Good luck.

Josh

R.I.Performance

mine does the same thing an the tach jumps. what do you mean is that good or not??

coxxoc

iTrader: (3)

That means that the car is producing a good ignition signal. The tach jumps when the plug sparks.

Nephilim

iTrader: (1)

so pulled start no help, but one thing i noticedis that when i try to start the car with evey crank the battery gets weaker and weaker till nothing. let it rest for a few minutes and same thing, cranks strong and slowly dies


two things when went to gewt the alt and starter tested. Alt guy said was reading higher than should of, and starter starts strong and starts to lose power

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

pull all 4 plugs and the 2 egi fuses, and deflood it for for about 10 mins or longer to make sure you have all the excess fuel out, let your starter rest between cranks, and then put almost an ouce of clean engine oil in each of the trailing plug holes but not all at once put some in crank it over a few times and put a bit more in just to work it around in the housing, crank it over a couple more times
get a torch or even a gas stove and heat the tips of your plugs a bit, but nowhere near glowing red though, and make sure all the fuel is out of them, toss them in and if theres fuel and spark it'll start!
all that fuel you've been dumpin in there would have washed away the little layer of oil on the housings, if there even was any after 8 years of sitting, the thin layer of oil helps build compression and will be enough till the OMP can take over

gettin the oil in is a bitch, i just have a long clean piece of clear tubing suck up some oil and blow it in the hole....its the redneck way of doin it i guess lol.......whatever works

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

You still haven't said if you've replaced the old gas yet.

My TII sat for a year and a half, and I couldn't start it for beans with the old gas. You're not gonna have a chance if your gas is older than mine was.

Hello Roto

i think he said gas was replaced

Hello Roto

yes, there was no gas in tank when I got the car, I filled it back up

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

So did you actually pull off both of the leading plug wires and crank the engine to check they were sparking?

Chris Boots

That 10th does too have a MAF you can see the black top of it in one of the pictures. You said you pull started it and it wouldn't even fire?? Is it throwing any codes? As for the starter slowing down, that could be the battery or the brushes in the starter start to get too hot and begin to break down. Bottom line the starter will test out fine off the car but thats because there's no draw on it. An alternator has nothing to do with it not starting actually. You could take it completely off and the car would still start. Tell us what kind of ECU is in that car. Since its an 88' Turbo it should have a N333. You say you are getting spark and fuel so that would mean the ECU is working. BTW how are you checking for spark and fuel? Checking for spark is as easy as taking a spark plug out and grounding it to maybe the shock tower or something while its connected to the spark plug wire and cranking really quick. I doubt the timing is off cause it ran when he parked it right? Timing doesn't just slip over time. Fuel can be a little bit harder but there's a few ways of knowing. You can either just tell cause you can see the fuel mist coming out of the spark plug holes while un flooding it or you can jump the fuel pump test coupler and listen for the fuel pump when you turn the key to on. Good enough compression to start an even flooded engine is 70psi+ any lower and you're gunna wanna pull start it to get the compression numbers high enough. Do you know if the exhaust is plugged?? That would explain a lot. Since its been sitting for a while something could have gotten up in there and made a house. (I've seen it happen) So why did the guy park it? I mean he put all this money into this car and just decided to not start it one day?? Sounds weird to me, maybe there was a bigger reason its been sitting for 8 years... After you check the basics again pull start it and see if it will even fire. Make sure you floor it first when you let the clutch out to clear everything out completely and hopefully it might spring to life at the same time...

Nephilim

iTrader: (1)

they are deffinetly sparking, you can here those. The coil paks are good. The Crank anle sensor is straight as well, dont know how to chekc the timing on it. Got a compression test and just going to double check tyhe compression. goning to take more pictures of the engine

Chris Boots

Kool. The timing should be good enough cause its not like you took the CAS out or something. Looks like its not too stock anymore so you're deffinately gunna have fun checking everything. If its flooded the compression will be low so don't freak out when it turns out to be a little low. Just keep working on it. I'da loved to have that being my first Turbo RX

cr7684

iTrader: (42)

A rotary needs high CCA I would try a little ATF in the plug holes and 24V. Also a pull start should do it!

Nephilim

iTrader: (1)

that the truth, hack job on the harness, things unplugged its a mess. the bac has nothing hooked up to it, that be an issue right now ?

Chris Boots

Nah the BAC ain't going to keep it from starting, in fact I don't even have a BAC on my TII engine (I blocked it off and set the idle at 850) If anything the BAC would help with the AWS (accelerated warm up system) which is probably disabled anyway. The BAC allows the ECU to control the idle when loads are put on it like headlights and AC etc. you probably do in fact have the BAC still for setting the idle and it wouldn't hurt plugging it in. A few more pics of the engine up close would be cool to see if I can see anything obviously wrong. Keep us informed and good luck man

Nephilim

iTrader: (1)

Update: Compression checked out fine, spark is good, fuel is getting to the rail, but after that who knows. I guess time to check injectors, fun i know. I have some more pics, replaced the radiator sensor and that got rid of the buzzer. Now all i need it to get it started and firing. going to search for how to get to the injectors.

Tried all of the suggestions above, so keep them coming.

Pics and videos

http://youtube.com/watch?v=Dxjht9hyiBI


<a href="http://img40.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=63452_DSC02557_122_801lo.JPG" target=_blank><img src="http://img40.imagevenue.com/loc801/th_63452_DSC02557_122_801lo.JPG" border="0"></a><a href="http://img127.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=63458_DSC02558_122_1177lo.JPG" target=_blank><img src="http://img127.imagevenue.com/loc1177/th_63458_DSC02558_122_1177lo.JPG" border="0"></a><a href="http://img159.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=63463_DSC02560_122_646lo.JPG" target=_blank><img src="http://img159.imagevenue.com/loc646/th_63463_DSC02560_122_646lo.JPG" border="0"></a><a href="http://img192.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=63474_DSC02562_122_159lo.JPG" target=_blank><img src="http://img192.imagevenue.com/loc159/th_63474_DSC02562_122_159lo.JPG" border="0"></a><BR><a href="http://img141.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=63489_DSC02562_122_244lo.JPG" target=_blank><img src="http://img141.imagevenue.com/loc244/th_63489_DSC02562_122_244lo.JPG" border="0"></a><a href="http://img219.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=63490_DSC02566_122_438lo.JPG" target=_blank><img src="http://img219.imagevenue.com/loc438/th_63490_DSC02566_122_438lo.JPG" border="0"></a><a href="http://img240.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=63495_DSC02559_122_392lo.JPG" target=_blank><img src="http://img240.imagevenue.com/loc392/th_63495_DSC02559_122_392lo.JPG" border="0"></a><BR><a href="http://img201.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=63500_DSC02561_122_121lo.JPG" target=_blank><img src="http://img201.imagevenue.com/loc121/th_63500_DSC02561_122_121lo.JPG" border="0"></a>

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

you should be able to tell if the fuel injectors are working, from your spark plugs being soaked by fuel do what i said in post #30

when i first swapped my jdm S5 motor i had my fuel injectors backwords so it was running the trailin as my primary,and i had the jdm ecu so it was only firing the front rotor, but i got it to start doin that, who knows when it was last ran.....so if there's fuel or spark it'll start

your rotor housings are washed clean, you need a layer of oil in there

Nephilim

iTrader: (1)

also can some help verify what these are, i think they are fuel injectors but they are not connected what so ever, just chilling at .

<a href="http://img216.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=67101_3_122_600lo.jpg" target=_blank><img src="http://img216.imagevenue.com/loc600/th_67101_3_122_600lo.jpg" border="0"></a><a href="http://img9.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=67103_4_122_1077lo.jpg" target=_blank><img src="http://img9.imagevenue.com/loc1077/th_67103_4_122_1077lo.jpg" border="0"></a><a href="http://img171.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=67109_2_122_989lo.jpg" target=_blank><img src="http://img171.imagevenue.com/loc989/th_67109_2_122_989lo.jpg" border="0"></a>

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

Yes, these are injectors....If they are not plugged in, well theres your problem...lol


Spec.

Nephilim

iTrader: (1)

i figured so, i guess my next issue is where do they plug up to. I looked and could find any wiring or fuel lines de-tached

Nephilim

iTrader: (1)

Smokems

iTrader: (1)

PM sent....lol i think its funny he is tryin to start the car with a massive vacuum leak .....Ie the intercooler. Should be fine with the intercooler on.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Holy cow you've got a basket case my friend.

Viewed the youtube video and its quite clear from the sound there's no gas in that engine at all. ITs possible that its flooded out horribly, but it doesn't even sound like it, plus if it were you'd smell gas so strong it wouldn't be funny.



First off, I would take that UIM off and have a look at the work that been done. By the looks of some of the routing and some of the positioning of components I'd say the mods weren't done by uber professionals. So if you do get to fire, it may be a ticking time bomb. Pull that UIM off and start correcting some of the ills.

Also, those fuel injectors pictured above have either been modified or are from an entirely different vehicle.


You've got a lot of work ahead of you

Smokems

iTrader: (1)

Did nobody notice that he isnt running an intercooler......?????

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Bueller?...

Bueller?...

Bueller?