JoeHawk

I just finished my Jspec swap last night. I go to take it out for a spin, and notice that when the secondaries kick in, the car bucks bad. Also, it backfires more than anything ever. I have to actually TRY to keep it from backfiring. I like it, but, I'm sure the cops won't. Just a few questions. My mods are K&N filter, 3" turbo back with pre-silencer, re-wired Walbro, and I ported the wastegate, it holds steady at about 5 p.s.i. until it doesn't want to accelerate smoothly. I havean SAFC II in it, but I didn't tune it at all. I put it as a 4 cylinder, and the arrow is pointing down and to the right.(I think that's what I was told to do) I don't remember any of the other settings on it, so, I honestly couldn't tell you. I left everything at 0, though. So, any tips with that would be very helpful, seeing as I don't know what I'm doing with it. I'm going to bring it to a dyno in town here, and get it tuned. Also, am I safe for now using the stock 550 secondaries? Or should I upgrade to 720's a.s.a.p.? And, if I'm safe with the 550s, what kind of boost can I run SAFELY with them? Sorry for the lack of paragraphs and long post, any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Sir Rupert Hobo

well, are your secondaries cleaned? no, you don't have to upgrade your inj... save that for later... or you might be running too rich. get it tuned and/or clean your injectors and see how it goes...

also check your wiring for the pump.

trickfc

if injectors have been cleaned and bucking still exists, re-grounding ecu will help

you are probably running rich w/ the walbro pump and your mods. the pump raises the fuel pressure ~5psi

what do you mean by "it holds steady at about 5 p.s.i. until it doesn't want to accelerate smoothly" ?

how does it idle?

Sir Rupert Hobo

still have the precats on?

JoeHawk

No, no precats, just the pre-silencer an muffler. 3" all the way back from the DP. With the 5 p.s.i. I was just stating that it held 5 pounds of boost, so the wastegate was ported and everything. Up until the bucking, it held right there, but afterwards, it's hard to tell. I have not cleaned my injectors, which I should probably do. Will running a bottle of injector cleaner work? Or would it be best to pull them and cean them?

The idle is......nonexistant, lol. I have to keep on the gas in order to keep it running, and it's never really steady, I associated that with the probably running rich. So, I dismissed the idle for right now. I adjusted the TPS as best asI could. So, I'm thinking doing the injector cleaner.

SureShot

Your motor may have been sitting in storage for some time.
My J-spec had to run several hours before it would idle smooth.
This includes putting a few ounces of MMO through it before startup.
After two days, it ran perfect.

JoeHawk

Kool, thanks. Wht do you mean by MMO?

SureShot

MMO - Marvel Mystery Oil.
It's a cross between high detergent ATF & TC3 (That's auto trans fluid & 2-stroke oil)

JoeHawk

Oh, yea, my step dad swears by that stuff, says it's magic. Thanks for all the help.

cloead

injector cleaner really wont do much, i had to take out my injectors and back spray them with compressed air to get my car to run again

RETed

I always thought the S-AFC TPS setting should be pointing UP???


-Ted

GXLBidwell

safc should be up and to the right! also make sure your sensor type is flap with 05in 05 out for s4 and 06in 06out for s5

JoeHawk

Yea, I kept blowing my 15 amp engine fusetoday after work. I would change it, it would start, rev up, and die, and blow a fuse. I switched the arrow to pointing up, and it's fixed. I didn't know what to set the sensor # at, so, 5 it is. What affect does that have on things? Sorry, I know nothing about the safc or tuning. I'm a total n00b in that field. I tried reading and understanding the safc manual, and it was like reading Chinese. Thanks for the help everyone.