shadowghost21

I finally pulled the trigger on a new TII motor for my 86' NA rx7. I got the motor from Japan2la and it's coming with s4 jdm longblock, tranny, uncut wiring harness and ecu.

Got most of my info from here and the other links from the info page.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/s4-na-turbo-swap-details-813825/
and here rotaryresurrection turboconversion
I'm just trying to digest all the things that I need to make this possible and just looking for someone to confirm or deny my findings.

If I read everything correctly ...

1) even though I have the ecu and wiring harness I should still mod my NA harness to work with the turbo ecu?
2) I need to be mindful of the fuel rail because it is backwards on the jdm (Do I need to drain my gas tank before starting this?)
3) I need an S4 TII AFM (Don't know the model number), S4 TII BPS(Boost sensor? S4 version only?)
4) TII Throttle Cable (any model S4-S5 as long as it's from a turbo)
5) A turbo inlet duct, if I get it used there is a change it's cracked because they sucked or something and some people make them from Home Depot and magic.
6) Walbro fuel pump (thank god something straight forward)
7) Some kind of Boost Gauge (which I'll probably mount on my dash or a pillar)
8) Throttle sensor is the same in all models? (I think that is wrong.)
9) Need to replace the whole clutch system? I have the TII tranny what's wrong with my clutch?
10) Exhaust system, probably headers back. Can I make due with just headers for now, seems the exhaust systems are sorta expensive, unless someone can recommend one for a decent price.
11) Fuel injectors are fine because they are already on the engine?
12) Spark plugs, I have some new ones I just put in my s4 motor about 2 months ago.
13) Remove the emissions stuff. I live in Colorado and the car still needs to be street legal to get it to the track etc, I don't think they do a visual inspection, is this okay to do? Will I still pass? My plates are valid until August next year, and I think we do emissions every 2 years here.

Okay I think that is my list. Except for a quick question about pull and installing the motor/tranny. Is it worth it to take out the radiator? I already planned on taking the bumper off as It needs to be painting and I hear that people mess it up with the engine hoist when trying to pull it so I figure I'll kill 2 birds with one stone.

Did I miss anything, get anything wrong? I'm handy with a soldering iron as well as a wrench so if anything it will just take time. I also have the Haynes manual. Not sure if I feel nervous, overwhelmed, or excited. Maybe a little bit of all 3. I'll be glad for the help I get, probably the best Christmas present ever!

EDIT: Meant to also ask, the rx7 is currently running, what can I keep? I'm thinking power steering, AC, alternator?
Edit 2: I also bought the TII Tranny -> NA diff drive shaft so I think that is good to go. Until I get around to buying a new back end.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

As long as the JDM TII engine you ordered is Series 4...

1) Use your N/A harness with a USDM ECU. (N332 & N333)
2) This is true... But no need at all to drain your tank.
3) AFM and Boost sensor are both N318. (S4 TII)
4) Yes (There are threads to mod the N/A cable... Just get a good TII cable, though)
5) TID's are easy to fab up. Worry less about this.
6) Walbro will work. If this is a stock TII swap, you should probably use a S4 TII fuel pump.
7) Yes
8) The TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) in the S4 N/A and S4 TII is the same.
9) Nothing is wrong with your clutch. This is just a good time to upgrade or get a brand new clutch... Since it is so easy to do clutch work with the engine and transmission out of the car.
10) Nope. You need a down pipe... For an example, or possible purchase, check out Racing Beat: Complete Exhaust Systems.
11) You should probably get your injectors flow-tested and cleaned. Check out Witch Hunter: Fuel Injector Cleaning and Flow Testing Service
12) You can use them. Clean them thoroughly.
13) You will more than likely not pass emissions with emissions removed. :-/

Removing the radiator will prevent damage to the radiator while installing the engine, and will also allow more space when installing the engine.

Be sure to look into extending the BACV and TPS wiring. (Bypass Air Control Valve and Throttle Positioning Sensor). The N/A harness will work just fine with the TII swap.

You should get the complete TII drivetrain. Since you already have the TII transmission, you'd need... (TII driveshaft, TII differential, and TII CV halfshafts.) - Otherwise, you'll need to do some modification for the TII transmission to meet up with the N/A driveshaft and differential.

Oh, and if you have questions while working on your swap... Search. If you're not able to find your answers through the search function, feel free to post your questions!

shadowghost21

Thanks this is really helpful. The engine is an S4. The clutch was actually replaced by the previous owner and I have the paper work on it so i know that it was done. Looks like maybe less than 5-10k on the clutch (not at home and my memory is fuzzy)

So I am getting the JDM ECU from Japan2la do I really have to go out of my way to buy another ecu?

Will do on the TII throttle cable I see they are not that expensive.

OMG I want that exhaust system pretty bad. I was looking at those actually Just looked a little expensive.

AFM and Boost sensors(MAP?) look like they pop up on the forums and that I can use my NA AFM until I can purchase a TII AFM. It's gonna take me time to get the engine, pull the old one, and then install the new one lol. I have some time.

I'll also keep on the lookout for s4 TII fuel pump.

This would also be a good time for anyone that is selling to PM me You know what I need.

I guess I'll be back on here looking on how to fab the inlet duct in a few weeks

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Thanks this is really helpful. The engine is an S4. The clutch was actually replaced by the previous owner and I have the paper work on it so i know that it was done. Looks like maybe less than 5-10k on the clutch (not at home and my memory is fuzzy)

Is that clutch installed on the N/A engine or the TII engine??

So I am getting the JDM ECU from Japan2la do I really have to go out of my way to buy another ecu?

Your car and wiring is USDM, right? The JDM and USDM ECU's are wired differently.

Will do on the TII throttle cable I see they are not that expensive.

Exactly

OMG I want that exhaust system pretty bad. I was looking at those actually Just looked a little expensive.

Expensive? Sort of. Perform well and sounds great? **** yeah!

AFM and Boost sensors(MAP?) look like they pop up on the forums and that I can use my NA AFM until I can purchase a TII AFM. It's gonna take me time to get the engine, pull the old one, and then install the new one lol. I have some time.

With the stock boost sensor... I'd just refer to it as "boost sensor". Sorry, you can't use the N/A AFM with TII engine.

I'll also keep on the lookout for s4 TII fuel pump.

Good.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

They most assuredly DO perform a visual inspection here in CO.
This goes beyond the "mirror on a stick" visual inspection for a cat- your VIN is punched into a computer that brings up a picture of the engine bay with the emissions components highlighted, which is then (supposedly) compared to your car.

Obviously, the techs can't/won't trace every vac line or hose to see if they actually go somewhere but if big stuff is missing (say, the air pump or solenoid rack), they'll probably notice.

I've failed emissions- AFTER "quick passing" the tailpipe test- because of missing emissions components.

shadowghost21

I could "leave" the emissions in or just do it right and try and hook it all back up. Your limits looked good though clokker, mine were awful. The current engine is running hella rich and I barely passed.

Didn't know the JDM vs USDM ecu wiring differences bummer.

Clutch is installed on my current NA car. Don't have the motor yet, it's in the tubes.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

You will NOT be able to use the N/A clutch with the TII engine and transmission.

Save some money for a good TII compatible clutch and clutch disc. If you're able to afford it... Take a look into aftermarket flywheels and counterweights, too.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

That's the swapped V-8, not the rotary...but it makes the point about visual inspection.
My (basically) stock FC- with all emissions intact and functional- barely squeezes through, even cranked to the gills with denatured alcohol.

shadowghost21

So how are people passing emissions tests? Seems like there are a ton of people that are like "yank the emissions!" lol with that attitude it's a wonder they ever pass. By chance do you know if emissions is every 2 years here in Colorado? I just got it done in August.

shadowghost21

This is a bummer. I'll buy some new stuff then. Budget is spinning out of control already Seems like by the time I get the exhaust, sensors, oil pump, throttle cable, and TII Hood, clutch and flywheel, I am looking at another $2.5k-3. Is that a reasonable estimate?

I also meant to ask about the RB complete exhaust http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...ems/16425.html Is that actually everything I need? Do I need anything else for the exhaust to work? I am used to seeing headers but I don't see any headers for the TII on their site. So I assume if I bought that I would bolt up and go.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you test every two years.

There are a couple of ways to do it...
-the legal way, just have everything installed and functional
-find a crooked inspector and give him money
-remove everything and reinstall it every two years for the test

People who cavalierly recommend removing all emissions either live in a state with no testing (or in the case of CO, live a section of the state that doesn't require it) or some variation of #2 above.

CO does have "drive by" test stations, which you may have seen (typically placed on on-ramps for some reason), and if your car passes through them enough times and is clean, you get a notice in the mail that you needn't go get tested at a station.
This is what I expect for the swap car.

Unless you're keeping the top mount intercooler, you don't need (and are probably better off aerodynamically without) the T2 hood.

And turbos don't have "headers", silly person.

shadowghost21

Hehe, I didn't know about the headers that's why I asked. I want to keep the top mount intercooler and the hood (I like the look). I'll put an order in for the racing beat exhaust today. Should be here some time next week. I'm sure I won't find it much cheaper than what it's going for on their own website.

I actually see the drive by emissions a lot. When it comes time to get emissions again then I'll drive my rx7 to work a few days out of the week.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Be sure to read that complete exhaust page. With that exhaust system (the Racing Beat REV TII)... You'll need a fuel cut controller (fuel cut defencer), due to the higher flowing exhaust. As long as you've got your stock rubber exhaust hangers... It'll install pretty easily. You don't necessarily need that exhaust. It is very nice, though. Great quality, bolts right up... You really won't regret it.


Also, look into porting your wastegate! Here are a few wastegate porting links:

Aaron Cake's Extreme S4 Wastegate Porting

FC3S Pro: Zenki Turbo Wastegate Porting

You're going to be spending more money than you think... Trust me on that. As long as you do things right the first time, you'll save yourself money in the long run. NEVER CUT CORNERS... I cannot stress this enough.

shadowghost21

I wholly intended to do it right the first time, just mean the car might be sitting a few extra months
So this is what I am looking at
Fuel Cut Controller - 87-88 RX-7 TURBO II
REV TII Exhaust System - 87-91 TURBO II
Turbo Outlet Gasket - 87-91
Complete Exhaust Hanger Kit - 86-92 ALL (MT)

$1,382.00 + shipping Figured I would be spending at least a 1k on new exhaust. So that should be everything. Any recommendations on a good clutch? I see that racing beat has some.

And it looks like back over to Aaron Cakes website (I loose hours on that page lol) total wealth of knowledge.

I'll probably wait until I have the engine before I finish ordering everything. It will give me more time to find a good deal at least with respect to the sensors. The forum classifieds usually have some decent stuff, I'll just keep checking.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

You won't really be running any crazy *** horsepower... Just get a nice street disc and pressure plate. OEM would work. Look into Exedy and even ACT... (I use an ACT HD pressure plate, ACT SS clutch disc, and and ACT Prolite flywheel with counterweight.) - You won't really need any of the six or four-puck clutch discs.

Steves13b

iTrader: (9)

If I remember correctly mazdatrix had the best priced after market clutches, could be wrong though.

shadowghost21

Looks like racing beat has this http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...ate/12648.html I hear the Exedy clutchs are good. And it's the whole kit so I'll have all the gadgets and gizmos to replace all at once.

And waste gate porting, awesome and necessary, but where the hell am I going to get a welder to do 5 seconds worth of work? Ca I take it ace hardware or something?

shadowghost21

I can't find a straight answer about the ECU. If I can find the US ECU for cheap I'll pick it up, what other disadvantages are there to using the JDM ecu? Remember that this car, the engine, tranny, and my jdm ecu are all s4.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

The only disadvantage would be swapping wires around at the ECU plug to accommodate the JDM ECU. It would be so much easier to use an N332 or N333 ECU.

shadowghost21

Well I know it would be easier :p I do have the JDM ecu harness. I'll have a look at the wiring diagrams for each of the ecus, does anyone have a linky handy? If not I'll google foo.

barnett87rx7

iTrader: (1)

11) you need turbo injectors, if they are on the TII you bought get them cleaned
13) depends where you live in colorado. Some area's do not require emissions.
9) clutch needs to be a TII as they are different from the NA so unless the long block came with one you need to buy one, and I'd buy one even if it did.

shadowghost21

I order an Excedy TII stage 1HD clutch this morning. I had one ordered from Racing beat but they were out of stock because I guess they are very popular. I managed to find one for the same price in stock on Amazon.

Yeah I'll be cleaning the engine before I put it in the car so might as well get everything cleaned injectors too

I live in the greater denver area (Westminster) so yeah emissions I'll try and hook up as much stuff as I can even if it doesn't work it will be there for visual inspection sake. And then try to pass those drive by emission places when I get the car running again.

I figure I'll be starting my TII restoration thread soon. This is the week I'll be starting the big stuff. Wish me lucks!

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

I believe I answered all of these questions. But that's the thing about this forum... There's always an echo. He bought a JDM longblock + tranny from Japan2LA. Of course it's gojng to come with TII injectors and TII clutch.


There's no advantage to using the JDM ECU. You're really just wanting to complicate things, aren't you?

shadowghost21

Hehe, I guess so. Prices on the US ones are just a little high (from time to time) I'll order a US one, if I have to, I guess... lol

As far as I know, my engine swap didn't come with a clutch but even if it did, it was a good time to buy a new one any way Which is why I grabbed the Excedy setup.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

I agree.

Did the engine and transmission come bolted together?