I blew my rebuilt 13bt in my 87 TII, and after month of searching for a new one, I found a JDM engine with absolutely no miles at all from a reputable enough guy in Detroit. He's selling it to me with a 90 day warranty, (long enough for a break in I imagine) for $850 and my old blown engine. I think it was worth my wait.

Anyway, I want to break this thing in very cautiously this time. After searching here for a few days mostly fruitlessly, I'm posting now... I've read rotary resurrections break-in instructions as well as fcs3pro's. Seems like good info, but I wonder if you guys have anything to point out in addition too, or in amplification of what I already know from these two sources.

Also, anyone know why this engine was just sitting in japan for almost two decades? whats up with that? surplus? or what? any insight?


Thanks for everything,
-Jake

 

I've heard of people saying don't chomp on it until it's been driven for 1k. Others have said drive nice for the first tank and then jump from easy driving to full on chompage back and forth. That way the engine will properly warp and the seals can set. I'm sure it's the same for the rotary. When I got my rebuilt f2t I was told to be easy on it for the first 1k.

 

What about premixing? I dont plan to premix after break-in but what about right at first? would it even help?

 

don tbother premixing... unless you are too cheap to buy omp lines...

 

To cheap to BUY them? Are the stock lines inadequate? I've been reading about the system, but dont know alot.

 

from what I've read since being on these forums, be very tender on the engine for the first 1000 miles then between 1000 miles and 3000 miles shift pretty late (don't floor it but gradually let the RPM rise to a high number before shifting) to get the engine used to its full RPM range and the seals can set right. After that drive it like you want.

 

And don't use synthetic until at least 10k

 

What about high level synthetics like Royal Purple and the such?

 

One other question... I've been told in the past that after break-in I need to advance my timeing? Does that make a lick of sense? what the heck

 

no it doesnt.

 

all you need,
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/te...p_breakin.html
i would be very woried about the engine being seized up after that long of time. have you been able to look inside and make shure none of the seals are stuck or dried out?

and come to our next meet whenever
http://www.xceedspeed.com/forums/
http://www.mirotaryclub.com/

 

0 mile JDM engine?

 

$850 for a zero mile JDM engine? From what I know, never heard of zero mile JDM engines......plus $850 seems pretty cheap. Make sure your sources are right, I learned that the hard way, got screwed on bunch of money.

good luck man

 

No such thing as zero-mileage engine... unless you're talking about one that was put together from scratch from all-new parts, which would cost you what, seven grand or so?

Even cars from the factory have SOME mileage.

Speaking of break in, does anyone know how long it takes to break in an engine with all used seals? I don't really want to wait to drive it 2K miles if I don't have to, since all I did was replace the coolant seals (although I think I might have switched the apex seals up...).

 

it's like a crate motor. Japan makes what is basically a rotary crate motor. As for juiceh with the BS flag, why don't you take the advice from your avatar?
The generally accepted advice to break in a rebuild is no boost and keep it under 4k rpms for 1000 miles. Remember you'll also need a jspec ECU to make it work (my buddy found that out the hard way the wait for an ecu sucks!)
Actually the reason to premix is that the omp goes out and starves the engine of oil, causing it to lock up. With zero miles on the engine, you don't have to worry about that, but you can still premix because it allows you to run 2-cycle oil through the engine which is better on it.
GT34, please stop talking. I'm getting dumber. If you're not premixing, don't use synthetic oil. Someone ran synthetic on a test motor and it leaves carbon deposits and crap out the yin yang inside the motor.
Yes there is because there are two people in my town that have them. Plus, I wouldn't be taking advice from someone who took an engine apart and only replaced the coolant seals. See the rebuild thread in the archives for why you couldn't do anything dumber.

 

Thanks everyone (especially powrdby13b)
I am concerned about two things the ecu, what happens if i run my usdm ecu? or will it just not hook up?
also, the whole engine not haveing moved for years and years.......yea....just concernd...(crosses fingers)

 

Maybe they have Mazda remans, but even those aren't new engines, they're just rebuild to spec.

If you were to buy a fully new engine, it would cost several thousand dollars.


Plus, why would I need to replace apex seals less than 10K miles old?

 

The Engine is being picked up tomorrow so Then we shall know.