J Spec installations
06-18-02, 05:20 AM
#2
Super Raterhater
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
If you're really looking for the engine to last long, then a complete rebuild is the best answer to this question. Without taking the engine apart, just check the plugs/hoses/any connections/belts if any/injectors and make sure they are in good working order. You may want to check the PD while you're at it (I'm assuming your upper intake will be coming off)
06-18-02, 12:00 PM
#3
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
complete rebuild.
If you are lucky, the housings will be able to be re-used and some people re-use apex seals, but I always replace them, for peace of mind.
Also professionally clean the injectors, replace all the gaskets (some of those motors have been sitting in a junk yard a long long time without running).
If you are lucky, the housings will be able to be re-used and some people re-use apex seals, but I always replace them, for peace of mind.
Also professionally clean the injectors, replace all the gaskets (some of those motors have been sitting in a junk yard a long long time without running).
06-18-02, 02:36 PM
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
I replace all, but I don't have the skills or patience to pull the motor apart without damaging them.
Kevin or someone else that has some skill rebuilding might have a different opinion.
Kevin or someone else that has some skill rebuilding might have a different opinion.
06-18-02, 03:18 PM
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
check the compression and condition.
Is it leaking anywhere?
are the plugs intact, or does it look like it has been sitting in a mud hole for the last 5 years?
if you remove the plugs can you rotate the internals by hand with a wrench?
Does it look decent, when looking in the plug holes? or are there chips in the apex seals or rotor faces?
If it checks out okay try it. In worst case you'll have to rebuild it in the future.
But if compression is low, it leaks, or there is water damage, or lots of build up, rebuild it now and save yourself the hassle down the road.
Is it leaking anywhere?
are the plugs intact, or does it look like it has been sitting in a mud hole for the last 5 years?
if you remove the plugs can you rotate the internals by hand with a wrench?
Does it look decent, when looking in the plug holes? or are there chips in the apex seals or rotor faces?
If it checks out okay try it. In worst case you'll have to rebuild it in the future.
But if compression is low, it leaks, or there is water damage, or lots of build up, rebuild it now and save yourself the hassle down the road.
Trending Topics
06-19-02, 03:59 AM
#10
the compression numbers i'll get are what they test at the day that they ship the motor. I'll expect the numbers to remain pretty close to the same during the 3 day trip to reach me. I get a 6 month warranty on the engine too....
06-19-02, 04:01 AM
#11
Glock Lover
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Currently residing in St Charles, MO
Posts: 2,223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Where you getting it from? Most tests are performed before they leave Japan, and the ride can be bumpy to its destination. I myself would put it in.
06-19-02, 10:37 AM
#12
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Those compression charts are notoriously inaccurate and Tony is right, all the ones I have ever seen were done in Japan.
I would check it myself before installing or be prepared to R&R the motor.
I would check it myself before installing or be prepared to R&R the motor.
06-19-02, 05:01 PM
#13
Glock Lover
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Currently residing in St Charles, MO
Posts: 2,223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I guess im just saying dont be dissapointed if something happens to it. The one I got had a steady 95 psi front and rear, and it still popped. I cant for sure blame the motor, because I believe it was faulty wiring in the car that blew the motor. I drove it when I shouldnt have, before it was running 100%. Sure I was mad when it blew, I tried to laugh it off. I cant say it was a bad deal though. If the next one im getting pops, im going with a rebuild. Being burned twice isnt cool, so im giving the jspec another chance, based on the wiring theory.
06-20-02, 04:08 AM
#14
The company is in Gardena and they're selling me 5 89-91 engines for 500 each and will compression test them in Gardena before shipping to me. I can't remember their name right now even though i've been calling every morning for a week, but i will in the morning. It starts with an "Li"... the rest is on the tip of my brain, but i can't remember.
I'm draining their stock because they don't want to carry rotaries anymore. This way i can have extra engines.
I intend to purchase a single one and see how the company handles any issues (if they come up) before purchasing the rest.
IT'S CALLED LIGERO USA!!! (i remembered the name)
I'm draining their stock because they don't want to carry rotaries anymore. This way i can have extra engines.
I intend to purchase a single one and see how the company handles any issues (if they come up) before purchasing the rest.
IT'S CALLED LIGERO USA!!! (i remembered the name)
06-20-02, 10:39 AM
#18
I wish I had a posse...
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio-Boycott Central
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bro I need a 89-91 TII engine! Let me buy one, if anything for me to rebuild! My car's been dead for 5 months now and I'm still trying to save money for a new engine.
C'mon man! Let's all share! :-D
Hell, even EMAIL me... oldmanwilly666@aol.com
C'mon man! Let's all share! :-D
Hell, even EMAIL me... oldmanwilly666@aol.com
right now its soaking in ATF
06-20-02, 03:56 PM
#23
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
If you’re going to the considerable expense of having the motor completely rebuilt (worth every penny), then why buy another motor to rebuild? Why not just rebuild your own motor? There’s no advantage to using a J-spec motor over a US-spec one.
06-21-02, 08:40 AM
#24
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: N. California
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You must consider that in Japan most people use public transportation and must pay high premiums for cars older than 5 years. Japan is also extremely small and exceeding 30,000 miles witihin 5 years isn't so common. I just got a complete J-spec TII motor w/turbo for $500 bucks. By just removing the exhaust manifold and using a flashlight and dental mirror I inspect each apex seal and housing as I slowly turn the motor. I'm not taking mine apart...I did discover some interesting spec information, but I'll do that on another post...
Getting back... the compression test that was done is inncorrect. First it would need to be turned with the starter or similar device, not by hand. Unlike piston engines, the process to determine compression on a rotary is quite different. You must watch the 3 pulses as the compression climbs to its maximum. Each pulse should be somewhat equal to each other, like 40-40-40. Let's say one apex seal is damaged the other 2 are good. When cranking the engine you must watch the pressure gauge starting from 0 and you should see something like 40-40-15 or 40-15-40, which gives you a total of 95. If you go around one more time, just one of the undamaged apex seals will take it past 100. In fact even had you 2 broken apex seals the 1 good apex seal will take you past 100 but it'll just take a couple more turns. Another thing, cranking RPM, and engine oil weight and temperature will have a direct affect as well
Arpus if you have a 89-91 motor and a 87-88 RX-7 there are some changes you will have to do... coolant inlet /outlet location, Fuel Injector resistance, oil metering pump, twin scroll turbocharger setup, TPS, intake...
Maybe we should trade cause I have the J-spec 87-88 TII motor but a 89-91 TII car. argh!
Sensei
Getting back... the compression test that was done is inncorrect. First it would need to be turned with the starter or similar device, not by hand. Unlike piston engines, the process to determine compression on a rotary is quite different. You must watch the 3 pulses as the compression climbs to its maximum. Each pulse should be somewhat equal to each other, like 40-40-40. Let's say one apex seal is damaged the other 2 are good. When cranking the engine you must watch the pressure gauge starting from 0 and you should see something like 40-40-15 or 40-15-40, which gives you a total of 95. If you go around one more time, just one of the undamaged apex seals will take it past 100. In fact even had you 2 broken apex seals the 1 good apex seal will take you past 100 but it'll just take a couple more turns. Another thing, cranking RPM, and engine oil weight and temperature will have a direct affect as well
Arpus if you have a 89-91 motor and a 87-88 RX-7 there are some changes you will have to do... coolant inlet /outlet location, Fuel Injector resistance, oil metering pump, twin scroll turbocharger setup, TPS, intake...
Maybe we should trade cause I have the J-spec 87-88 TII motor but a 89-91 TII car. argh!
Sensei