eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

So I've done a bit of searching on the topic but could not find anything conclusive... I bought a J-SPEC engine-core about 4-5 months ago, and have been regularly injecting ATF into the exhaust ports, and turning it over by hand in the hopes of loosening up the seals and keeping it fresh... It was a questionable engine from the start--so I didn't take any chances after it came into my possession.

Anyways, today I went to install it, and after thoroughly cleaning off and stripping the engine-block, I injected more oil and began feeling/listening for "final" compression "pulses" before wasting time on the install... After several minutes and quite a bit more oil-injection, I determined that the front-rotor was simply seized from water-damage and improper storage--with no help being done from the previous ATF-treatments.

I pulled the engine apart earlier tonight and my worries were confirmed... There was a decent amount of rust, and ALL of the seals in the front-rotor were seized; Apex, side and corner.

My question is: WHAT (if anything) should I soak this rotor in? I'm hoping to reuse everything if possible because the engine is relatively low-mileage. ATF with plenty of rotations in 4-5 months did NOT loosen the seals. Is there some sort of safe "rust eater" product out there that will turn rust into butter?

IWNTA20B

You shouldn't use ATF to do what you've been doing. ATF is corrosive to rubber and will deteriorate the O rings. Since you have everything apart and parts are seized, you need to be careful pulling parts off the rotors. You need to get a sharp pointed tool to gently push out the side seals.
What I have used and is really good at softening carbon is GM TOP ENGINE CLEAN.
It's internal cleaner to clean out valves and pistons caked with carbon.
Let it soak a few hours and it will soften the carbon enough.
Soak everything in parts cleaner and start scrubbing.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Alright, so one vote for TOP ENGINE CLEAN. The only problem I have with your suggestion is that you say it will "soften the carbon enough".

As I mentioned, my issue is rust--not carbon. Still think it'll work? Either way, thanks for the reply.

Red_Rabbit86

where did you get your engine through. i was just woudering cus i dotn want to shop there

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If the seals are seized in via rust, then the rotor is junk.

Some will say that it can be reused if the pitting isn't too bad, but the rust will have made the seal grooves rough. Seals will abrade and want to stick.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Soak it in a pan of mineral spirits, kerosene, or a penetrant. If it is rusted to that point then it is pretty much automatic junk. IF you can't get the old seals out, you can't install new ones.

There are ways to force corner and apex seals out in many cases...but side seals can be damn near impossible to remove without destroying the rotor in the process. They are so small, and most of their mass is compressed inside the rotor, that you have nothing to grab onto.

This rust occured before you got the engine, so atf neither helped NOR HURT your engine.

I fail to understand all the bitching about ATF...I've proven to more than one person that it is not detrimental...but you can pick who to believe.

Chris Boots

The way I think about ATF is that it goes in Auto transmissions... those transmissions definitely have rubber seals and I've opened up many Auto transmissions and found that the seals were still new looking. I have came to the conclusion that ATF didn't ever hurt the seals in it if not helped them stay preserved. ATF has been my saving grace on quite a few engines. The chances of you re using anything will depend on how bad the rust is in the engine. You might be able to hot tank all the internals and re use them or you might not. What company did you buy the engine from? Just take your time removing the parts and eventually they will all pop out.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

You might try the Parts Wanted or Ebay route to get a new rotor. And while you're waiting for the right deal to show up, you could try this...

http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

As Aaron notes, it may be too pitted to be viable, but science is fun!

Good luck!

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

btw, you should take a look at your front and middle iron plates too. It is likely that the iron between the big rubber o-ring (I forget the technical term) and the water jackets corroded thru and leaked the water onto your rotor. Unless you think someone squirted water into the rotor chances are that's what failed. The metal is at best an 1/8th thick (to my recollection) and seems prone to corrode away.

Mine front iron was corroded and failed. I got a replacement from Japan2LA by posting my need for one in the ForSale/Wanted section of the forum. It's a beautiful piece too.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the responses guys. I still have yet to fully clean all of the engine components to scrutinize the condition... I just want to see if I can save this particular rotor. If anything I'll just focus on just saving the apex-seals for reuse with their "matched" housings. I have an extra set of 9.4:1 rotors and some street-ported irons I may use if I have to.

BTW, I purchased this engine from a fellow member that I trusted... Long, pointless story, but in the end he basically ripped me off.