Ok so i had my 88 non turbo running a couple weeks ago. It had a leaky injector and it idled really rough. So i bought a set of used injectors from a member of this forum and went to install them today and now i've got no spark. Any idea's?


I've got ngk plugs and i replaced the wires a few weeks ago. Not sure of where i'm supposed to start. I've searched the forum and came up with nothing solid, i also looked in the FAQ section. The engine will turn over it just won't fire.

 

First, how did you check that you had no spark? Did you ground out the plug on the body? If so, and still no spark, then first you need to check the fuses. Don't just look at them, actually check for continuity. Looks an be deceiving.

 

I just when though this on 2 weeks ago my 86na. My ground on 3G was bad so that's why it stops about there.

Here is how I checked it, and thanks for everyone posting on this forum
It took some searching but this is what I came up with.

Download the FSM and have a multi-meter to test with.

Fuses
Check the fuses in the engine bay and the interior. Test for 12 vdc on these.

Coils
Is the tach moving when your trying to start the car ?
The tach get the signal from the trailing coils.
If it is moving, check the resistance of the wires, or are the plugs any good ?
Check to see if you have 12 volts at the coils(See FSM).
Check the resistance for the coils(See FSM).

CPU Check (CPU is under the passenger's carpet,behind a metal plate.)

Check for the reference 5 volts at the boost sensors.( brown/white wire a the boost sensor).
If you don't unplug the afm, tps and the variable resistor and check again.
If you still don't have 5 volts, check on the at the computer for 5vdc on pin 2A.

If not look for 12 Volts at the computer.
Pins 3I and 3J are 12 volts in(1 of them only has volts when the key is on)
Pins 3A, 3G and 2R are grounds
Also check on pins NPTQ for the resistance from the CAS.

This should give you a start, there is a lot of info if you do a search for this.

 

so far what i know is that i'm gettin 12 volts to each coil with the ignition on, also the tach doesn't move when i try to start it. Oh and on the lead coil when i attempt to start the engine i'm only getting 1 or 1 1/2 volts. Also when i attempt to start it and keep turning the engine for a while there is a loud buzzer that sounds and then i turn the key off and it goes away. It pry happens about 30 to 45 seconds after i turn the key to the on position.

I honestly don't know what could have happened from when i had it running before. I shut it off and took the injectors out and that was it, shut the hood and walked away.

 

what is the FSM? i tried searching on here and nothing came up. Is it the wiring diagram?

 

Factory Service Manual. It will tell you how to test the coils and cas(crank angle sensor)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/

 

Thank you

 

alright so i checked all the fuses and i'm gettin power to the fuse block, and all the fuses are still good. I do have 12 volts to both coils, now i'm going to check the cas and see if that could be it. Does anybody know the price of a new one and where the best place to get one would be, would any local parts places have any?

Does anybody have any thoughts about that buzzer that goes on after about 30 seconds with the key in the on position. It sounds like it's comming from the dash. The only way that i can get rid of it is to turn the ignition off. This hasn't ever happened before so i really have no clue what it's from. Oh and if i just have the key to acc. it'll be fine and no buzzer ever goes off.

I need some info about that buzzer as soon as possible cause it's really annoying.

Thanks,
Dan

 

The buzzer usally means low antifreze or oil. It also tells you when to shift.

 

Yeah i was runin low on coolant so i've got the buzzer problem fixed but i'm still struggleing with the ingnition problem. I've got fuel and air just no spark.

 

I'm in desprate need of some help, I hardly have any time during the week to work on the car so i'm only got my weekends. Any idea's?
I'm not able to pull the cas to test if i get spark. Is there a simpler way to test it? I'm read that the ohm's restiance on the cas should read about 110 to 210. is that correct?

I really not sure whats going on, i had it running well a few weeks ago and drove it around for a minute, just around the block. when i broght it back home i turned off the car and took the injectors out becuase they were leaking badly. Don't think i unhooked anything from the car when i did that so i'm don't know where to go from here.

 

did this problem happen after you installed the new injectors? seems like thats what you saying. The tach gets its signal from i believe the trailing coil. Do you have a test light if not you can borrow one from an autozone i believe. I would use that to test for spark. Because then your actually testing on how the circuit should be set up. Also on newer cars jumping the spark plug to a ground is bad practice because of all the computers Did you replace all injectors? or just secondaries? Check to make sure there are no unplugged wires. The coils are grounded by where they mount, might want to take out the coils and clean up the mounts, although i dont really see that your problem because it was running fine before you worked on the injectors. My guess is you unplugged something CAS, TPS. Its hard to help without the car infront of you. Do you know the injectors are good. Is this for sure a spark problem?

 

it was after i installed some used injectors from a member here. The were just the secondaries. They are the easly visable ones. One leaked severly and the other was cracked. I don't beleive i unhooked anything that i didn't put back. Yes i do have a test light i just have to find it. There is the right about of restance at the CAS aswell as i am gettin fuel so i believe thats working. The tach wasn't working i believe, it would jump and i believe it was working but i'm really not sure i wasn't paying a whole lot attention to the cluster. I'll check quick and get back with my findings.

 

OK so i just used the test light and on the lead coil i would get a single spark when the ignition was turned to the on position. When the motor was turning there was nothing. Any idea's?

 

Anything?

 

You are right about the cas. It is supposed to be in between 110 and 210. Also on the ignition coils you are supposed to have from .2 to 1. I am having a problem with my car not starting also. Ii is turning but it is not wanting to run. I have been through everything. I know that it is getting fuel, but its still not starting and I am going crazy just like you. I work during the week so I dont have anytime to work on it.

 

oh and what is the boost sensor? I'll go out and check the Tps to make sure everything is hooked up. I think i might try to take a video of the car atempting to run and show you guys what i'm talking about. What else is on the list?


So far what i know:

It is gettin plenty of fuel and air
Also the CAS is at 3 restance but i'm still gettin the pulses of fuel so i don't know how i'm still gettin the fuel pulses with an almost short. So i'm not really sure what thats supposed to mean.
The fuse block and fuses are all good. My engine head space on the fuse block was meant for a 30 but it has a 40 in it now and did when it ran. ( could that have messed something up?) There is also 12v to the block so thats alright.
Coils are gettin 12v into them with the key on, and then drops to a volt and a half with the ignition on. The lead does if i remember right. Once i hooked up the spark light and the ignition was turned on, it would light up but very dimly. There isn't any spark in ether coil so is there a relay that connects the two that could be blown? I've tried switching the fuses with other 40's but nothing has changed.
The battery is brand new just three days ago.

What else is there?

Possibly grounds? Coil? are there troublesome spots where they rust out? Ecu?



EDIT: So the TPS is connected still. It appears that the oxygen sensor is not connected but i don't know if that is one of those diagnostic connectors or something thats supposed to be hooked up. It's green if that helps, and it's just a single wire that comes from the sensor. The rest of the wiring looks to be connected still.

 

Anybody out there thats has an idea?

 

I've had some people mention a fuse inside the car....which one should i look for? They don't appear to be blown i just don't want to go through all the fuses if i don't have to.

 

if you check the fuses i wouldnt worry about it. you should never have larger fuses in a smaller fuse space because the circuit is made for a certain current when you raise the fuse you might make the fuse no longer the weekest link and a wire may fry, the wire is now the fuse? i doubt thats the problem. to test the tps you need the engine to be warm and you test the resistance between i think the green and black maybe dont quote me check the fsm. But it should be 1000 ohms if its not warmed up i believe its about 1400 ohms throttle all the way open should be about 500 ohms. There is a way to read codes from the car, may help i http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...Signal%20Table is the link. good luck . As for the test light you said that the lgiht shined when you were at key on engine off? that doesnt make sense when your cranking it the lgiht does not turn on and off? check all the wires.

 

o about the relay if you have 12 volts at the coil if there was a relay which i dont think there is ill have to look at the wiring the relay is probably fine,its letting voltage pass through the coils may be ground side controlled. Ok it sounded like you did have spark but not much the test lgiht is flashing but dim. thats resistanse somewhere clean the grounds check the wiring for what fuse feeds the coils. The boost sensor is the map sensor located on the passenger side after the air box. It detects engine load by measuring vacuum/or pressure, if this is bad the engine should still start? Im not sure maybe try unplugging it maybe it has a default? you can check the sensor voltage at idle and it should change at wide open throttle. hope some of this helps.

 

Yeah the only time that i was able to get the test light to light up was when the ignition was turned to the on position with the engine off. I had my dad try to start the engine and i tested both the lead and trailing coils with no luck. If i am receiving any spark it's very little.

 

that doesnt make sense... you shouldnt have any light with it in key on engine off. Maybe you test light is different then mine?anyway if your test light is good that means neither coils are firing. So it has to be something in common. From looking at the wiring diagram they share power from the main relay except you said you had power at the coil.what color wires did you have power at? on leading should be the black/ yellow. on the trailing it should be black/ and yellow it says in the wiring there are 2 black/ yellow wires on the trailing. The next thing they have in common is the ECU. you can check for contnuity between the ECU and ground when the coils should be firing at ecu pins 1V for the leading and the trailing has 3 not positive why exactly but pins 1x,1u,and 1m. Im sure you wont have continuity.....thats why there not working. so theres probably some input thats missing. i think.. im gonna try and find what inputs it needs to ground the coil.

 

the light that i used i connected to a ground and the other was connected to the spark plug wire. Right when the key was switched to the on position it light up so i would only get one blip and then nothing and it happened several times, and then we'd attempted to start and it nothing happened. I'll go check again on which wires have power.

 

the ground for the coils should have voltage if there no firing.on the leading its a grey/yellow wire the trailing has three im not sure which one L/yellow i think l is lilac not sure. brown/yellow and L/red. test for that with key on engine off and when starting. you can use a test light if you have one