skatingsamurai

Oh My God It Worked!!!!!! She Ruuuuuuuuuuuns Yeeeessssssssss Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.... Hailers! You The ******* Man!!!!!!!!!

skatingsamurai

wtf? okay. now it runs...which is good! buuut. now it doesnt want to stop!!! i turned the key off and pulled it out but now the only way to stop it is to get cut the fuel....i swapped out the connectors to the afm, there are 4 wires that dont quite match up. on the NA side, the odd wires are 3 black wires and one black wire, and on the TII side it is THREE brown wires and ONE black wire. so i just assumed that the they all connected together in the opposite fasion...right?? hrm i wonder if the fuel pump relay resistor has anything to do with it

skatingsamurai

alright, last post of the night. i am suspecting that the culprit is one of two things either one of the wires to the connection is wrong in the afm OR the fuel pump resistor relay...but i dont know what that is responsible for. i tried looking up the wires for the afm connector, on both na and turbo but i couldnt find either. doesn someone have a wiring diagram for each so i can match them? i drove it around the block, and its sounds weird, like there is abnormal vibration. like its not as smooth as it should be.

well im glad i just got the thing running today...should be able to take it up school with me.

HAILERS

IF the key was ON when unplugging the afm, the clicking noise was the fuel pump switch inside the afm *making/breaking* the circuit to the Circuit Opening Relay that controls the fuel pump. Most likely that was what you were hearing.

IF the key is to ON, and you push the vane aft as little as a quarter inch or more, you should be able to hear that same cllicking sound.

On the other hand, if that yellow two soctket fuel pump check connector near the right strut tower is jumpered with the key to ON, the fuel pump will run continuously even if the fuel pump switch inside the afm is not working. That yellow plug jumpered does the same thing as the switch inside the afm as for making the fuel pump run or not.

If the engine is running, then I guess it has something to do with a bad/irregular connection at the afm. As in no afm signal to the ECU to keep the engine running after the engine starts. Got me.

HAILERS

IF the engine keeps running after the key is put to OFF, usually the problem is you have the two small wires to the alternator crossed up. Swap them around and I think that will solve that problem.

HAILERS

Read you last post again. Try this. Key to ON. Then jumper the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector near the right strut tower. When you jumper the two sockets with a piece of wire, you should hear a click sound. That will be the Circuit Opening Relay coming on AND if you listen carefully, you will hear fuel running thru the fuel rails constantly. Or you might be able to hear it returning to the fuel tank. One or the other.

Both n/a and turbo afm wiring is the same. There's little if any chance someone swapped the wires in the afm plug.

The wire colors from one end to the other is: Green/Orange........Green/Blue......Brown/Black........Brown/White........Brown/Black......Black.........Brown.

Like I said, na and turbo wiring for the afm are the same. The only exception is the 88 cars might use pure black in place of the brown/black color.

If you ever get a chance, pull the small plug off the ECU. Put the meter on ohms and the negative meter lead on a known good gnd like one of the studs on the ECU hold down plate. Put the positive lead to 3A or 3G. Either will do. The meter should read less than one ohm. Probably something like 0.5 or so ohms. Smaller the better. Those are the ECU ground wires. The other end of those wires is on top of the rear rotor housing just to the left of centerline of the housing.

But if those wires were not bolted down on the top of the rear rotor housing.......you'd have no spark/fuel injector activity.

Engine runs a bit ruffffff? If a used engine it could be a apex seal sticking .........or worse. Won't get into that since it could be a number of things.

HAILERS

I didn't read this post carefully. But I answered you question about the wire colors in a post above. The early 86-87 used brown/black for ground wires. The 88 model used pure black color instead.

Hard to believe maybe, but all those BrB, B, Br are all gnds. Trust me. Jpg later maybe, but trust me, whether 87 or 88 the afm plug is pinned the same.

HAILERS

Ok. Earlier I gave the colors on the afm plug for a 86-87 car. Early 87 at that.

Here is the order for the 88 afm: Green/Orange........Green/Blue..........Black...........Brown/White..........Black..................Black....... .Brown.

Green/Orange goes to pin 2J on the ECU and is air temp.

Breen/Blue goes to pin 2E on the ECU and is AFM output signal.

Black goes to gnd.

Brown/White is a 5vdc ref voltage from 2A on the ECU.

The next two Black are grounds.

The end wire is Brown and goes to the Circuit Opening relay. It puts a ground on the Circuit Opening Relays coil to pull that relay in. That Brown wire is also tied to one of the two wires in the yellow, two socket fuel pump check connector.

Whether na or turbo or 88 or 86/87, the afm wires go to the same places. Just the color Brown/Black is replaced with pure black on later cars like the 88 model.

HAILERS

The 2E should have been closer to 4vdc according to the FSM. That's with the key to ON and engine off. I'll check one of my cars later today.

The 2J should be b/t 2 and 3 vdc. It depends on the air temp so don't worry 'bout this one.

Pin 2K seems right. Basically less than two volts is right. Not a player in the engine running.

Forget pin 3D. A real turbo car has a fuel pump resistor/relay outfit and your car does not. It was a output gnd signal from the ECU to that fuel pump resistor/relay outfit. Not to worry.

skatingsamurai

alright, this should make things simple and easy... now i havent gotten to any of the readings yet. but take a look at the photo. on the left (87 side) from top to bottom, you have BrB BrB BR B then the ones that should go together. on the right, (88) you have from top to bottom, B B B Br and etc. so...the br goes together. what does the B goto from the 87 side? any B?

i keep you posted.

skatingsamurai

alright, well i put the wires back again. i rechecked the CAS and i restabbed it. and now i dont know what happened!!is it possible for me to have messed up the fuel mixture by switching around the wires to the afm?? because i tried turnin the car on, but it was REALLY having trouble. when i started it, i could hear like a whining noise comming from around the CAS. it had a rough idle, and when i try revin it, it wouldnt go past 2k before stumbling reeeally bad. i got going down the road but it start stumbling extremely bad. like, if i got on the throttle even a little bit it starts to bog down.

HAILERS

.1987 shown in the jpgs. The 88 wiring is free and online.

Pull the black cover off the cas.

Align the first mark on the puilley with the fixed poiinter.

Align the dot on the cas bottom gear with the hash mark on the cas body.

Install the cas.

Look at the top gear in the cas. It should look like my picture. The pointer should be opposite the corner of the black reluctor. If not, turn the cas body til it does. Cinch it down. Done.

skatingsamurai

okay, i did it perfectly twice and same thing. new update is that i fixed the turn off problem..you were right once again. i Have however come under a new discovery. a fuel leak!! a huge one. i noticed a puddle down right under the primarys and i mean... an *** load of fuel. i took the car out for no more then 4 miles and it destroyed like a quarter tank of gas!!! like wow. i stuck a towel town in this puddle of liquid that was down near the injectors pulled it out, walked a good 10 feet, took a match to it and woof! burned right up. you think this leak can cause a disruption in the AFR? thusly making the car spudder? becuase i made sure that the CAS was right. just to be absolutely sure, can i use the CAS off the NA?


i found the leak! wow, just seems like im talkin to my self here, besides hailers. but i pulled the rear primary injector and the upper o-ring was completely busted in half...it accually came out shredded. wow...so what did this? to much pressure? injector not firing? i thought it was anyways...the clip was loose...argh..im sick of rx7's

HAILERS

Turbo cas and na cas are the same animal.

Hard as a rock grommets b/t the fuel injectors and where they fit in the housings can cause air leaks and bad idling. Usually only noticed during idle.

You need to pull the intake off and jumper the fuel pump check connector with the key to ON to pressure the fuel rails in order to find the leaking fuel place.

skatingsamurai

well my idle was really high and when ever i would rev it races a little before it goes back down...TPS maybe???

HAILERS

The TPS plays little in the idle. To set it right, get the engine fully hot. Then go to the ECU and pin 2G and backprobe it with the key to ON or even idling if it will. It should read approx one volt dc ( 1vdc). If not, then just turn the TPS screw til it reads approx 1vdc.

A high idle can be caused by the water thermowax being set wrong OR no water passing thru it when the engine is running. You have to look at the Fuel section of the FSM to set the thermowax. Usually to just disable it, you can turn the screw that sits on top of the thermowax's piston fully clockwise. Actually this is a subject I don't have time for. Takes too much time. Search for HAILERS and thermowax someday and you'll find something.

Better fix the fuel leak before it burns to the gnd.

skatingsamurai

okay, first post in a while...

so i got the thing running and it runs like ****... i tried restabbing the cas without a timing gun becuase i dont have one. and everytime i restabbed it, it ran a little different... as it is right now, it idles around 1.3k and rough. its not steady like its not firing smoothly. when i rev the car, it races for a half a second more from the second i let off the gas. when i drive VERY lightly little problem the ocasion hesitation. when i gas it light to moderately, its terrible. its rough, it stumbles and hesitates. and when i get on it moderately to heavily (with a really rich AFR) is goes away alot. i notice that rpms dont seem to effect it. so if i rev lightly to a high rpm, still hesitate. and if i get on it in a LOW rpm it becomes more smooth. what does this mean?

i fixed the fuel leak. it was BAD i opened up the UIM for the third time and i noticed that an injector clip was off and i pulled the injector and the top oring was torn in TWO! replaced, bam done.

fixed the turn off problem. switched the 2 alt. wires. and as for the AFM? well seeing as how it RUNS and IDLES i would ASUME that the wires are connected correctly unless i have to have to right GROUND wires together.

i have been moving into school so i havent had time to work on my car. i will do blind pin out of the ecu as to not produce any bias results. i will check ever pin both in ON and IDLE. i will get to that as soon as i can. i will also check the grounds as mentioned by hailers, and i will even check to see if the injectors are firing by pulling the cas and the plugs and spinning the cas.

ill repost if i forget anything

skatingsamurai

okay, i would like to revive this becuase the problem has been found. i sent it to kenjitsu auto in greensburg, PA because i was sick and tired of working on it. so after a couple weeks. it turns out the FPR was bad!!! it is leaking fuel into the vacume lines and into the engine!!! i guess this would explain why one chamber was not working. i guess it was getting to much fuel and bogging out and when i would rev it, it would be okay! duh!!! well no sweat now. i just have to wait till it is finished and go pick it up.

hhn2002

wow just read through it all. musta been hell. i had a little bit of that for my own so i feel ya. hailers- the man delivers
he gets a virtual standing ovation from me thats for sure.

btw wish ya gook luck cuz there were many times where i found my self cursing mazda under my breath.