bcty

Its time to rebuild my engine soon and start really focusing on my engine.. i hope to have about 280hp when im done then add the supercharger to boost to around 400-500hp.. this is out of my N/A.. i was curious what kind of idle am i looking at if i get a Major Street Port... i cant wait.. this will be my setup... oh plus what will my injectors have to be and what kind of fuel pump will i need? thanks.....

EXTERNAL

Remove : Aip Pump , Power Steering , A/C
Rb: Headers w/Bonez racepipe
Rb Pullys
Intrax Muffler
Electric Fan
Bonez Intake w/custom ram air intake
10 lbs flywheel Alum.
Heavy Duty Clutch Plate
FD Alternator
4:30 Gears
Remove 6 ports
Nelson/Paxton SuperCharger

INTERNAL

89-91 Rotors and Counterweights
86-91 Carbon Apex Seals
86-91 Race Apex Seal Springs
Street Exhaust Air Engine Injection Passage Plugging
Port the Intake and Polish
Port Exhaust
Major Street Port
Port Upper and Lower Manafolds

bcty

oh plus what will my injectors have to be and what kind of fuel pump will i need? thanks.....

scathcart

Looks like a well thought out list. As long as you are NA, save the fuel mods until you get the s/c.
You may be a little optomistic with 280 hp out of a street engine.
Carbon apex seals???? Not a street engine then...
or race apex springs....
thus, I don't understand the street port... why not go bridge or PP?
carbon seals will last you maybe 30,000 km and will not seal for street use.
Maybe a higher rate OPR?
Might wanna think about an ECU, to go with that supercharger.
Personally, I would go with an ATI supercharger... so many benefits.

do the engine in two stages:
Get it completely built in NA mode, running perfectly, and then go with the supercharger, ECU and the fuel mods.
Sean

bcty

i was reccomended not to go with a bridge port for street driving.. and i saw the apex seal while browsing the RB site and they looked good cuz i really wanna pull at around 200 and play at higher rpm's.... could i get a fuel computer that all the t2 guys use.. the safc or sumpthing like that... what could i use to control fuel from inside the car...

bcty

thats what i was planning on doing thankyou... anyother thing you think i could do to squeeze some more hp out of this setup?? maybe SOUL knows what is needed when u reach this point?

scathcart

OH GOD! Carbon apex seals and race springs are NOT for a street motor! The engine will get MAYBE 15-30,000kms on it and will not idle!

An SAFC with bigger secondaries for you would work, but for a s/c engine making serious horsepower, you really need an stand alone unit.
Sean

bcty

so you think i should stick to the stock seals and ****? and what kind of stand alond unit would i need? and how much are those? where can i find info on them?

scathcart

If you're going s/c, keep your lower compression S4 rotors. They'll allow you to run more boost, not to mention they resist detonation alot more and deform less.
But they are heavier...
Best bet would be S5 Turbo rotors.
The problem is setting up the engine for two different configurations. Different components work better on an NA and a SC engine, like exhaust and intake manifold porting, etc.
Sean

scathcart

Yes, use the stock seals.
A stand alone with a lot of support in the RX7 domain is the Haltech E6K. Check out the ECU forum.
It replaces the stock ECU and all of its wiring, and allows removal of all of the vacuum solenoids and ****. REALLY simplifies the engine.
Price is a big component though... Look at around $1800-$2000 Cdn for all the wiring and the ECU.
Tuning is done via a laptop. And offers much more tunability than an S-AFC or the likes, but usually requires extensive knowledge to tune, best to leave that to the professionals.
It would be best for you to basically build two motors. One Great N/A motor, and then when you are ready to go s/c, take out the n/a rotors and add s5 turbo rotors.
If you're really interested, I could give you a great list of parts to go with for both set-ups... but give me some time. Its Bar-night on campus tonight...
Sean Cathcart

EDIT: info on standalones can be found in this Foprum in the ECU forum, or check out this site for the ultimate in Haltech RX7 support.
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html
he even offers demo software for you to try out... spend some time cruising around this page.

bcty

what rotors do u think i should use and what prices am i looking at... i heard that ppl use the 89 and up rotors for weight reasons... would i be best to go with the turbo versions of the rotors? what are the diffrences and what preformance will i expect without the supercharger driveing around before i buy it?

scathcart

S5 NA rotors have higher compression and would give the most NA power.
S5 turbo rotors have considerably lower compression and would make less power in an NA, but would allow much more boost on your SC engine.
Weight on both the Turbo and NA rotors is the same.
Sean

bcty

but high compression with a SC will make more power right? i was thinking about RB race rotors but at 550 a piece i dunno.... and does anybody have these is any of their cars?

bcty

oh and what is the max psi i could run? and does anybody know the ease of install? it looks pretty easy.. maybe a day job?

bcty

bumpidy

scathcart

not really.... With higher compression rotors, you can't run as much boost without detonating.
I dunno on max psi, but with high compression rotors, no more than 10 for sure. Maybe 6-8psi?
Don't bother with race rotors. You're not building a racing engine.
Install would be reasonably easy. You'd have to install oil feed and drain lines, unless you went with a custom job. That usually entails tapping into the pan for drain back and getting oil feed from somewhere, maybe cooling lines?
Installation of the FMU might be a little difficult too.
Sean

Josepi

Boost+Carbon seals=NoNo

13B2QuIcKNy

u want 280 hp from an na??? and they told u bridge port wasnt streetable? i think 280 hp on an na rotary isnt streetable.. the most u could get is like 250 and thats probably with a good bridge port or peripheral port... and besides u cant build a high revvin motor to about 250 or 280 like u say and just slap on a supercharger.... it doesnt work that way.. **** i wish lol..
low compression is for forced induction and high compression is to high revved ... i mean u could probably run a supercharger on ur built na motor but it wouldnt work out right because then you can not run much boost and that sucks i think 4-5 psi tha most...without detonating... and if u wanna go the supercharger route.. which i give u props for doing..get series 4 rotors...a good street port .. some exhaust porting and slap on the supercharger....

bcty

so i should just stick with my rotors? and maybe polish them up and refinish them? or should i get the t2 ones? 270 is possible with a street ported n/a.. watch me