It's dead....now what?
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It's dead....now what?
Here is a puzzeling question. On my Rx7 ('86 NA),why doesn't it do ANYTHING when I try to start it? The battery is only two weeks old and is running 12 volts...but the car does not do anything. I tried to jump it...nothing...dead as a doornail. What do you think is the problem? She has been dead for 2 weeks now, and I miss her. Also, the CD Player, wipers, E-Flashes, all do not work AT ALL --- keep in mind that the battery still is putting out 12 volts. I am hoping it is not some billion dollar electrical problem.
Mike
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'86 NA
no mods
Mike
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'86 NA
no mods
#3
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this happened to my car.. i fryed the 80A fuse in the fuse box and sometimes it started and then it didnt.. then it died so i replaced that... check your fuses! and see what happens after that!
#4
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
yeah, theres not enough information...
Can you bump start the car?
Do the guages work when you turn the key to the on position?
Do the headlamps or horn work?
Can you bump start the car?
Do the guages work when you turn the key to the on position?
Do the headlamps or horn work?
#5
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Here is some more info...
Someone else told me that I might have a blown fuse. So I will check that out.
No, the headlights do not work. There isn't even enough juice to pop them up. The gauges do nothing, except the voltmeter, which bounces up to abotu 6-7 volts then doesn't do anything (keep in mind that the voltmeter said I have 12 volts). And finally, it only clicks once in a while, not every time, just sometimes.
No, the headlights do not work. There isn't even enough juice to pop them up. The gauges do nothing, except the voltmeter, which bounces up to abotu 6-7 volts then doesn't do anything (keep in mind that the voltmeter said I have 12 volts). And finally, it only clicks once in a while, not every time, just sometimes.
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#9
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Always start at the simplelist problems first clean battery terminals,then check fuses.It's probably where your problems lye.If it's not those now what's happening differently???? Anything?
#13
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Ok, at this point, if you want help, youre gonna need to work with me some more. You need a voltmeter, or at very least a circuit tester. DO you have that stuff?
You say you have a good battery, I assume by having checked it with a voltmeter on the posts themselves. The next step, to check the battery again, is to clip them on, and either have a friend or yourself watch the readout, while you try to crank. Does it drop? IF it drops below 10vdc or so, the battery is shot. IF there is no drop, then the battery is not being drained...its not connected well enough.
Assuming it passes this test, check voltage at the battery terminals again..the first one you should have checked teh battery posts themselves, now check the terminals attatched to teh wires...to see that it is indeed a good connection. IF you verify 12vdc here when cranking, then go on.
Get under the car at the starter. The fat wire on the starter solenoid is battery +. the fat wire on the tranny bellhousing is battery ground. Clamp on your voltmeter to these terminals...do you get 12vdc? When cranking(obviously need a friend here)?.IF yes, continue...(for now we'll assume your starter motor is good, since you say you have no power anywhere else in the car, it must be an electrical issue elsewhere rather than the starter not turning the motor over only)
Go back in the engine bay to the fusebox...pull off the little side flapper on both sides, and check both sides for 12vdc positive...ground the voltmeter and check eash side of the 80A fuse for 12vdc+. IF it is getting power in and out, your problem lies inside. IF not, your problem lies outside.
Post back here with results.
You say you have a good battery, I assume by having checked it with a voltmeter on the posts themselves. The next step, to check the battery again, is to clip them on, and either have a friend or yourself watch the readout, while you try to crank. Does it drop? IF it drops below 10vdc or so, the battery is shot. IF there is no drop, then the battery is not being drained...its not connected well enough.
Assuming it passes this test, check voltage at the battery terminals again..the first one you should have checked teh battery posts themselves, now check the terminals attatched to teh wires...to see that it is indeed a good connection. IF you verify 12vdc here when cranking, then go on.
Get under the car at the starter. The fat wire on the starter solenoid is battery +. the fat wire on the tranny bellhousing is battery ground. Clamp on your voltmeter to these terminals...do you get 12vdc? When cranking(obviously need a friend here)?.IF yes, continue...(for now we'll assume your starter motor is good, since you say you have no power anywhere else in the car, it must be an electrical issue elsewhere rather than the starter not turning the motor over only)
Go back in the engine bay to the fusebox...pull off the little side flapper on both sides, and check both sides for 12vdc positive...ground the voltmeter and check eash side of the 80A fuse for 12vdc+. IF it is getting power in and out, your problem lies inside. IF not, your problem lies outside.
Post back here with results.
#14
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Well I can help you a little so far. First, yes the battery is putting out 12 V, with no crank. With crank its about 8-9 V. However, the car does not even hesitate to start, as is the ordinary GR GR GR thing. There is NOTHING what so ever. The throttle body no longer even clicks. Second, all fuses are good, I checked them today. Third, the starter is new in December. If its dead I coudl bump start it. However, I have not tried to bump start yet, because of the failure to do ANYTHING. Not even turning over when I try to start it.
Thats all for now.
Mike
---
'86 NA
no mods
Thats all for now.
Mike
---
'86 NA
no mods
#15
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Try what I have said...this is a test of voltage supply along the first half of the entire vehicle's power system. Test by test is the only way to track this down, so just go back one by one and try what I suggested and report back.
BTW 8-9vdc at crank is a bit low, I have seen batteries weak enough that they wont even try to turn a car over gr gr gr they just click and shut down all power int eh car. What does it do when you boost it?
Do the tests. A voltmeter at walmart costs as little as 10 bucks.
BTW 8-9vdc at crank is a bit low, I have seen batteries weak enough that they wont even try to turn a car over gr gr gr they just click and shut down all power int eh car. What does it do when you boost it?
Do the tests. A voltmeter at walmart costs as little as 10 bucks.
#16
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I have a voltmeter and I said that I already checked the battery and fuses. By boosting I assume you mean gasing while trying start. If that's what you mean then the answer is NOTHING. Let me know if that's not what mean.
#18
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Well I just bump started it today anddrove it down to the mechanic. I had a feeling it was the alternator, but my dad was like "no its not". Like he know SO much about cars. Turns out it is the alternator, and I will be getting the car back from my mechanic tomorrow ($250 later). Thanks for all the help.
Mike
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'86 NA
no mods (yet!)
Mike
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'86 NA
no mods (yet!)
#20
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i know its pricey, but include parts (hes says 170, whatever) and labor and tax, its near there. He said it may be a little less anyway. But it aint my money so I won't bitch.
Mike
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'86 NA
no mods (yet!)
Mike
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'86 NA
no mods (yet!)
#21
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Ahhhhh. The joys of spending other people's money. At least your getting it fixed, though an alternator is not a tough job, and the parts can be bought for less.
#22
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That's about what mine did when the alternator took a crap on me last week. $80 and 10 minutes of work later, it runs great. Simple enough job to do yourself. All I needed was a rachet, a couple of sockets, and a pair of needle nose pliars, and it's done.
#23
could be the airflow meter. i accidentally ripped my wires leading into the AFM onetime. sucked. check those connections-if they are loose its a good chance that might be it
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