dennis blackstone

what gives this problem has not been solves...even the moderators can't figure it out...leaky injectors yeah right...low compression yeah right....brand knew rx8s flood ...why can't we figure this out....im sorry im just venting....I've seen brand knew injectors rebuilds with good compression knew water therno...the whole 9 yards ...somebody must know something

arghx

iTrader: (3)

uh we did figure it out, where have you been? the cranking map in the stock ECU is too rich. Why do you think the start signal trick works? Ditch the stock ECU and the problem goes away. You can start your car, let it run for 15 seconds, and cut it off all you want (provided compression is ok. even with low compression you can still fiddle with the cranking map on a standalone or Rtek 2.1). No fuel cut switch necessary, no bullshit (provided your car is mechanically sound).

Rx-8's also have a cranking map that is too rich and occasionally floods. The reason why they made it rich was because insufficient fuel makes the car take a while to start in some cases. Why do you think the "start signal" trick makes the car take a while to start when cold? I imagine Mazda decided they would rather have fast reliable starts and risk a flood in 1% of the cases. That's not how I personally would do it, but that's what they did.

dennis blackstone

well ive done the same trick 3b! ...no go and you are right .... whats the deal with the rtec does it work

j0rd4n

yep, just another reason why aftermarket ecu's exist (rtek, msns, haltec, etc)...you'd think that mazda would learn to adapt to each motor individually and change the fuel map and lean it out just a little bit at each start until it found the spot where it'd start every time very fast without flooding

dennis blackstone

at one point i was considering a rx8 ...but now noway! ill spend the money on an rtec ....has anyone put one in ...with good results....ive read post of the wolf 3d does good ...but the rtec i have not seen any post on the 2.1

j0rd4n

do some more searching, there's plenty of rtec success stories

dennis blackstone

on rtec 2.1 not many its knew and ive searched

Chris Boots

The rtek 2.1 is the newest upgrade from pocketlogger. Before the 2.1 there was the 2.0. The 2.0 has been around for quite a while. I now have the 2.1 instead of the 2.0 and I love both of them. I highly recommend the rteks. they have to be the easiest to install and give you awesome results and tuning to every level and the best part is they fixed the hot start problem on the rtek 2.0/1's. before I put it in I had the same hot start problem. afterwards i haven't ever had a problem. I can even start it and shut it off cold (which is usually a big no no) but it still fires right up. Refuses to flood.

+1 for the Rtek

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

my buddy RoatryWeaponse7en has an R-tek chip its pretty slick that car purrs when its cooking. Don't know if its the 2.1 i dont think it is the previous owner had it installed but im impressed with it. The car runs very smoothly with the upgrades it has but just do some research on the 2.0 if u cant find any tech specs on the 2.1

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Didn't you have a bazillion page topic in which we covered ALL OF THIS already?

Isn't this it?
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=692607

The hot start/flooding issue is multi-faced. There are several issue that contribute, as covered already in that thread.

dennis blackstone

your on the money ...now i have a knew recruit in our rx7 club and i post there questions ...because ive answered them 1000 times ...and im tired of answering them ...so what i do is get my knew member to read post on this forum and get used to using it before we can get in any detail with him ....so far all my members use this forum ...know everyone wants to know about the rtec 2.1 and flood clear

HAILERS

I've a new angle on this hot start problem. In addition to the ones I've posted before.

It all came about when I got curious about what would happen if the two primary injector plugs were put on *** backwards. So I went to the ECU on the series four and swapped the light green/black with the light green wire. Same thing as pulling the intake manifold and swapping injector plugs.........but a darn sight easier.

I thought the thing would run crummy. To my surprise it ran normal. Duh. Same idle speed, same afr at idle, and I drove it maybe ten miles over the course of a couple of days doing errands. In fact I forgot I'd done that until this day when I put things back in order.

So that made me curious. I got two LED lights. Put power to their red wire and put the other LED wire in the back of each primary injector. Well if you start the engine it won't tell you squat because they turn on/off too fast and seem to be a consistant lit up LED. So I got a spare CAS and installed it on the harness.

Key to ON, and slowly spun the lower CAS gear. Odd conclusions. At first, if I did it at a slow pace, both LEDs lit up at the same time and you could hear just one distinct click from the injectors. If I turned it a bit faster, I saw one light come on prior to the other and two distinct clicks from the injectors.

On the whole this just confuses me a bit. IT seems at times both injectors came on at the same time when slower rotation of the CAS was used. Meaning to ME that this could cause a flooding condition since only one rotor at a time is ready for ignition, and if fuel is put to the other rotor, it's just adding to the problem?

Anyway, I gave up and watched MotoGP instead of ******* with the car anymore. Just puzzles me that I can swap primary injector wires and the car runs normal. A real oddity.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Since many of the aftermarket EMSs fire batch, I don't think that would make flooding more likely. I'm betting that below a certain speed the ECU can't quite figure out engine position from the CAS so it defaults to a batch fire mode to try and get the car started.

dennis blackstone

hailers have you tried the rtec 2.1