so we have a good sum of money to put towards an NA FC build...no we cannot use the money for a turbo build.....it HAS to be NA or none at all.....and it has to be the S5 13B block we have right now....

here was the idea....

J-port (or bridgeport)
beveled and rebalanced rotors..
dual 48mm ITB's
fuel pump
injectors
(megasquirt or prefer a haltech if price is right after engine build is complete)

FULLY cryotreated engine....as in all rotors housings and seals....
9.5/10lb flywheel

ACT extreme or EXEDY clutch setup...

any honest to goodness advise on what all would be a good idea to add to this engine buildup...hoping for 220-250whp...if possible...all motor....13b....again we cannot do a swapp

if anyone has 13bre-20b intermediate housings that would be greatly appreciated...that is doable...

i understand if power is the deal then turbo is the way to go or 3rotor...etc etc...I PERSONALY understand this..BUT its not my money AND its about going all motor on this one.....SO any advice will be great!

OH and streetablity isnt much concern in terms of high and rough idle.....as long as it doesnt agressively die at every light every time...

thanks guys!

 

i can see you geting the power you want, but if your doing a J port (IIRC those only last a few thosand miles due to the way they go into coolant systeam)
why not just go with a P-port?

and yes you can make a ton of power. But it wont be very streatable by the average standard.

 

i was taking into consideration BUT....with the engine fully cryo treated..it doubles its life roughly....so daily driven....cryotreated...im wondering how many miles we are looking at considering its gunna be a weekend racer and go to work daily....P-port...with beveled rotors....that would definately..do the trick...

i appreciate any and all input thanks!

 

A p-port would make the beveled rotors useless, since the side intakes are gone.
and i dont think cryo treating would help the J-port issue at all, since its not a wear issue but a cooling issue.

 

T2 intermediate housing, CUSTOM MANIFOLD. The stock manifold will really hold you back. I guess you would need that anyway with ITB's... but I dunno if that will get you any noticeable power.

Oh and just run a damn bridgeport, don't do that J port crazy ****. Bridgeports are proven. The stock cooling system can handle just about anything an N/A can throw at it. My car dynoed 172rwhp, that's 50 over stock on full s4 internals and manifolds, and I have no cooling issues.

 

The life of a j-bridge engine is measured in minutes. Well, not quite that horrible but close to it. Cutting far into the water jacket means that you have to take creative measures to seal it, generally involving cutting a section out of a stock o-ring and then using sealant to seal the rest. These engines fail because the start leaking water into the ports.

J-bridges were developed to get around rules in racing classes that banned peripheral ports. Since you presumably are not bound by such rules, why not build a peripheral port engine? It will be far more reliable, make much more power and idle just as nasty...

Seems pretty small.

Not worth it on a J-bridge since it won't last very long anyway. I question how useful it is on any rotary engine really, but that's just my opinion.

Why?

That will be a function of tuning.

 

yea the idle really is function of tuning...and the ports on the RE are bigger witch means a bigger port does it not? so peripheral port.....and u suggest dual 52mm? or 55mm? throttles? hmm sounds good then any other input would be awsome!

thanks guys!

 

whats cryo? something of a coolant liquid or a system? sorry for the dumb Q.

 

cryogentic treatment of the metal to cause them to become ALOT strong and more wear resistant....they either DEEP FREEZE or heat up certain metals to a certain point to cause them to remove impurities and and change its properties....

 

twin 55's... PP for life and power...
lightened rotors and option? (clearanced also)
apex seals? stock mazda? or ceramic (more expensive but longer life and higher revving b4 chatter)
"loose" engine... (loose tolerances)
rev and play hard...

- chris

 

really, if you can then forget about the J-port. reliability is non-existant with it as it is just for a single or a few passes at a strip then rebuilt. i would choose a P-port for reliability and best power gains. just have the rotors lightened and balanced not beveled.

 

I wouldn't go so far as to say "ALOT" stronger and wear resistant. I'd say it has a marginal effect. Worth it? If you have the money to burn... sure.

 

i c.noted FORGET JPORT...lol...whats the ill effect of beveling?

 

i'd like to see this build up!!! Go p-port

 

yes we are going P-port on S5 turbo int housings..fully cryoed....52mm ida's

 

if you P-port then beveling is a waste of money.

 

beveling is useless with a P-port because of the changed location of the intake.

 

You want something like this ?
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=50310

 

oh wow yes that was our general idea ! relocating the alternator will be something we are gunna do to that as well!