*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

hey everyone. about 9 months ago i supercharged my fc using a paxton sn89 blower and pieces from the old discontinued nelson kit/pieces made by me. i also recently blew an apex seal.....anyway the motor is out of the car and i am starting the rebuild very soon, but i have one thing that has been on my mind for a long time. how to intercool it? obviously a fmic would be ideal, but do to the location of the s/c, plumbing would be very difficult. however, i already have a TII hood, so i began thinking of swaping in a TII lim, uim and tb and then bolting the stock tmic onto it. thing is, we all know what that intails (portmatching and changing throttle cable + setting up plumbing to work with the s/c) i was really just wondering, how great are the benefits from the stock intercooler? would it be worth the extra time/work/money? does anyone know exactly how well the stock top mount cools the charge air? thanks. -justin

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

The general rule is that the TMIC is good for up to 10 psi, over 10psi and you'll start to lose efficiency. It's such a great setup for 10psi and under though, very short intact tract, less pressure drop, less lag...

Hope that helps.

introVert

Since the SN89 won't boost more than 10psi with the 3.75 '' pulley that *touch* is running, all will be golden. The routing for the intercooler pipe would be a real bastard, depending on where you run it- since I have a paxton blower and a TII hood, I would be VERY interested in how this might work out.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

air to water intercooler.

introVert

You now have my attention. Please elaborate, sir.

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

you'd be better of just fitting a bigger core for better cooling and flow.

SDrotary-FC

you could try aquamist or something like it

https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/ai-supercharged-rx7-593712/

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

good ol' supercharger eh? u might be able to find a water spray kit for a little extra power

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Well I'd start off by asking how hot your intake temps were to begin with?

You could always stand to be cooler, but from my experience with non-auxilary injected cars, intake temps of 50-60C aren't hurting anything. Sure, being cooler wouldn't hurt, would make a little more power, and make it easier on the engine, but there may not be a need for it in your setup......and a TMIC (if intake temps weren't out of control) would more then likely act more as an inter-heater.

If anything, I'd squirt a little water or meth in if you're worried about cooling since thats going to be the absolute easiest and most effective.

But where were you at temp wise?

Evil Aviator

Since you already have the TII hood, I think it would be worth it. However, I don't see why you would need the TII manifolds. Can't you just make a mounting bracket for the TMIC and fabricate some custom piping?

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

i have also thought about a water/meth setup, but i am not familiar at all with these, so i am a bit worried about instalation/ operation. if anyone had more details to share that would be awesome (i would check the link that SDrotary-fc so graciously posted, but for some reason this damn work computer wont let me....) also, classicauto: i have no clue what intake temps were, only that they were pretty hot judging by the charge pipe running from the s/c itself to the tb and the hot *** air that blew from the BOV. evilaviator: i did think of that originally and it still is a viable option, its just that plumbing would be half taken care of if i used turbo manis since the outlet side of the intercooler would already be right on top of the TII tb. on the other hand, i would still be putting in extra work in portmatching, etc unless i found an already modded lim. either way its gonna be a bitch i think, which is why i wonted input on the effectiveness of the stock top mount. all info has been helpful so far, keep it coming!

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Honestly, I think for your situation and goals, a little AI is the ticket.

In all honesty its VERY simple. However there are many systems available which are more complex, more effective and pricey.

I'd say for you, just spray a little water from a simple 2D system (devil's own, snowperformance, coolingmist, aquamist...a few others, or a custom setup) between the charger and TB. Water will add some cooling and knock resistance, but won't be burning in the mixture (and thus richening AFR's) like methanol. Depending on the current setup (ecu wise etc) and how far you want to go will determine what to use.

I'd suggest reading up in the AI section of this forum for much much more information on it. But for what you wish to accomplish - AI fits the picture perfectly.

Havoc

Id be going this path, depending on your setup easy to have a sandwich plate setup or a barrel cooler in your existing plumbing.

front mount rad + a pump and all done. Will be less impact on your existing plumbing as well, and if you decide to run over 10psi it will easily coupe.

Id be doing something similar to this guys set (a bit more extreme then yours ) http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.p...=91628&start=0

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

I would go with AI.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

hhmmm....ai is sounding very apealing....any have a link to a good BASIC kit they have had experience with and reccommend? something that would include price and an idea of installation process? thanks again.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=8

Thats the kit I'm using, comes with a few different nozzle sizes. Just tune your start point and full spray point (it ramps up between the two) and drive.

I didn't use the bottle it comes with though, its way too small and is (I believe) just a coolant overflow from some domestic vehicle. I just made my own tank....but you can use the existing washer or headlamp washer bottle if you like.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

There's an entire AI section of these forums. You can get a lot of info there.

Your apex seal probably popped from detonation. Detonation happens when your intake charge gets compressed then becomes so hot that the gasoline ignites explosively (all at once; instead of a slower flame starting at the spark plug). More boost makes it hotter, cooling from extra fuel (tuning rich) or AI counters that b/c it makes it cooler. Prevention of boost spikes/creep, sufficient fuel delivery and tuning rich enough or AI are all necessary to prevent detonation.

You can search the forums for more info on water cooled intercoolers. Most people say it's only practical for drag strips, not long drives. Though there are exceptions if you're not making too much heat.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

i think that i am going to go with a water injection kit in the long run. in addition to the snow performance stage 2 kit, i also found this:

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=120

also, classic auto: what is the approximate size of the resevoir you se and how long does it last under normal driving condtions compared to a tank of gas? thanks again for all the info and opinions guys, its been very informative

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

1.8L using the 330cc nozzle ~little more then a tank of gas (I still top up when filling up) but the larger 625cc I can get the low level LED on by 1/2 tank if I'm being naughty.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

that sounds good, i was hoping to get a resivoir that would last at least to a tank of gas...i think i will probably get that aem kit since it comes standard with a bigger resivoir, the low level indicator and the boost-safe thing, but i wanna do some product research 1st. either way this still has to wait untill my rebuild is complete, but i appreciate all the info posted here. if any one else has anymore comments feel free to post